Proper preloading
Here is a video of me "pre-loading", hope it might help ya. Don't mind the loud and slow crx. It's just a stock 200k B18a with a straight pipe. That's it lol
[youtube]nHKyvXKlJgk[/youtube]
[youtube]nHKyvXKlJgk[/youtube]
15.0@94 in that video. But the quickest pass was a 14.7.
Yea yea Nick, lol. I sat and waited at the burnout box for like 5min due to a breakdown. I forgot...lol
Yea yea Nick, lol. I sat and waited at the burnout box for like 5min due to a breakdown. I forgot...lol
I preload, but a bit different than most.
I don't drag it threw both staging lights with the ebrake up full throttle anti lag blairing. That seems hard on stuff.
I'm not on a protree, that takes too long, makes too much noise and heats the clutch too much for my liking.
I just drive up light the first staging light, pull the ebrake up slightly, drag it to the next staging light at a lower rpm.
First non staging light that goes off I'm up on the two step, 2nd non stage light, full throttle anti lag, then I start binding it up slipping the clutch and pulling harder on the ebrake.
I side step the clutch and drop the ebrake, off you go, feels the same as last time.
I don't drag it threw both staging lights with the ebrake up full throttle anti lag blairing. That seems hard on stuff.
I'm not on a protree, that takes too long, makes too much noise and heats the clutch too much for my liking.
I just drive up light the first staging light, pull the ebrake up slightly, drag it to the next staging light at a lower rpm.
First non staging light that goes off I'm up on the two step, 2nd non stage light, full throttle anti lag, then I start binding it up slipping the clutch and pulling harder on the ebrake.
I side step the clutch and drop the ebrake, off you go, feels the same as last time.
preloading kills clutches 
not as bad as you'd think but oh well.
anyhow, the idea of preloading is taking all the slack out of you driveline before you launch it. think of it like this:
- stand in front of a wall and punch it as hard as you can
- or stand in front of a wall, fist against the wall and press it as hard as you can
wich is going to hurt most you think?
that's about the difference your driveline/engine feels with or without preloading
if you preload harder then just taking the slack out of the driveline, then your also preloading your suspension/tires. preloading like this also reduces unsettling the car while launching and thus improving traction of the line and save parts.
wearing down your clutch faster is a small price to pay, considering you save a lot of cash on otherwise broken trannies, axles, diff's, etc. not even mentioning the faster ET's

not as bad as you'd think but oh well.
anyhow, the idea of preloading is taking all the slack out of you driveline before you launch it. think of it like this:
- stand in front of a wall and punch it as hard as you can
- or stand in front of a wall, fist against the wall and press it as hard as you can
wich is going to hurt most you think?
that's about the difference your driveline/engine feels with or without preloading
if you preload harder then just taking the slack out of the driveline, then your also preloading your suspension/tires. preloading like this also reduces unsettling the car while launching and thus improving traction of the line and save parts.
wearing down your clutch faster is a small price to pay, considering you save a lot of cash on otherwise broken trannies, axles, diff's, etc. not even mentioning the faster ET's

👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 Great explanation
preloading kills clutches 
not as bad as you'd think but oh well.
anyhow, the idea of preloading is taking all the slack out of you driveline before you launch it. think of it like this:
- stand in front of a wall and punch it as hard as you can
- or stand in front of a wall, fist against the wall and press it as hard as you can
wich is going to hurt most you think?
that's about the difference your driveline/engine feels with or without preloading
if you preload harder then just taking the slack out of the driveline, then your also preloading your suspension/tires. preloading like this also reduces unsettling the car while launching and thus improving traction of the line and save parts.
wearing down your clutch faster is a small price to pay, considering you save a lot of cash on otherwise broken trannies, axles, diff's, etc. not even mentioning the faster ET's

not as bad as you'd think but oh well.
anyhow, the idea of preloading is taking all the slack out of you driveline before you launch it. think of it like this:
- stand in front of a wall and punch it as hard as you can
- or stand in front of a wall, fist against the wall and press it as hard as you can
wich is going to hurt most you think?
that's about the difference your driveline/engine feels with or without preloading
if you preload harder then just taking the slack out of the driveline, then your also preloading your suspension/tires. preloading like this also reduces unsettling the car while launching and thus improving traction of the line and save parts.
wearing down your clutch faster is a small price to pay, considering you save a lot of cash on otherwise broken trannies, axles, diff's, etc. not even mentioning the faster ET's

Grant
Anybody familiar if the stock Honda LSD can take some pre-loading on boost?
My setup is stock b18c4 engine(European version of the b18c1) with a stock s9b gearbox and OEM Honda LSD. These gearboxes come with LSD from factory.
Also its running a T3/T4 turbo on max 9psi.
Should the stock LSD be able to take this kind of abuse or would a aftermarket diff be more recommended.
My setup is stock b18c4 engine(European version of the b18c1) with a stock s9b gearbox and OEM Honda LSD. These gearboxes come with LSD from factory.
Also its running a T3/T4 turbo on max 9psi.
Should the stock LSD be able to take this kind of abuse or would a aftermarket diff be more recommended.
I would say yes, for a while. remember your lowering the impact/shock to the driveline by preloading. unless you have upgraded the axles, which are normally the weak spot, you should be fine.
Nice to see some newer members asking about this. There used to be some good video's back in the day, showing how its done, about 2007.
Nice to see some newer members asking about this. There used to be some good video's back in the day, showing how its done, about 2007.
Yes the stock diff can handle it for awhile.
I was running a B16 with a t3t4 at 300whp.
Type R trans with stock lsd diff.
It had about 100 passes on it before I went with a different setup. I recommend getting axles (2.9's DSS) and use slicks, not drag radials.
I was running a B16 with a t3t4 at 300whp.
Type R trans with stock lsd diff.
It had about 100 passes on it before I went with a different setup. I recommend getting axles (2.9's DSS) and use slicks, not drag radials.
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Nicaraguense13
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Mar 13, 2007 04:36 AM







