when an oil pump fails......how long does it actually take before everything dies? after seing all of the oil pump failures this year i got real nervous and got one of those moroso oil pressure lights. the light comes on at 15psi i beleive...and at that point obviously the oil pressure would be dropping at an insanely fast rate...figure it would take about a second or so to pull your hand from the shifter to turn the car off. is that fast enough? i think the LEAST amount of damage ive heard of from a oil pump failure was crank, bearings, and an oil pump. if you could trigger relays at 15psi to shut the car down......could that possibly be enough to atleast save the crank? if you could break a pump and get by only replacing the pump and rod bearings.....it wouldnt be so bad. just something i was thinking about on the toilet this morning

 

I think the honda oil press switch is set at 15 also. It does the same thing, light up the dummy light.

 

.....also the switch would have to be armed after the car is running or it wouldnt start. The honda one is a switched ground, it could be hooked up to trigger a relay.

 

Im interested in this as well.... Id imagine though, that as soon as the pump breaks it will be spewing metal shrapnel through the oil passages. But if caught in time to save the motor it definitely would be worthwile to employ a cutoff device.

 

if you do it fast enough it should be fine. we had 2 oil pumps fail in 2004 and the motor still completed the season and some of 2005 until we broke a retainer.

 

I lost an oil pump once, and didnt even know it, car run for a while. No damage done. In an H motor at that.

 

Try using a low pressure warning light the same size as a shift light. That way if it comes on during a run, you can just shut the engine off and save the motor. You only have a couple of seconds at high rpm before the engine will hurt itself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try using a low pressure warning light the same size as a shift light. That way if it comes on during a run, you can just shut the engine off and save the motor. You only have a couple of seconds at high rpm before the engine will hurt itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Joe's car has a red light the size of a stop light haha. Its pretty large actually.

 

what earl said ... think about it even if engine (electronically) shuts off, your clutch and gear is still engaged while the car is moving and spinnign the motor anyway, so the bottom line is the driver needs to shutdown and disengage the motor.

we caught the motor ont he dyno couple times before it got a woody, still lived. we use a shiftlight for oil pressure warning and i look at that, rpm shift light and down the track when racing, that **** comes on automatically the motor comes off without me thinking

greg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You only have a couple of seconds at high rpm before the engine will hurt itself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

One for fuel and one for oil pressure + a relay will cut the ignition Faster than you can blink(literally)! all there is left to do is push in the clutch..

 

More.

 

You can wire it with a relay inline with the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, injector powers, etc.. and use the oil pressure switch to ground the relay and start everything. You don't have to turn it off, once the engine makes oil pressure cranking, the relay should engage and the engine will fire up. That should be better on the bearings for cold starts as well.

 

do you really want to cut fuel @ 40psi of boost though? that would be the easiest way of doing so...but wouldnt an ignition "shut down" be better?

 

best way to do it would be to cut power to the ecm in my opinion. if you cut fuel then its lean briefly before shut down, if you cut ignition at 40psi, you run the risk of hydraulicing because the injectors are still firing. either cut ecm power or cut rpm signal to the ecm.

 

cutting power to the ecu is kind of what i meant.....didnt exactly word it correctly.

 

FYI, the moroso warning light is adjustable. base is set to 15psi, but you can raise it to 50psi. I had mine kick on when i cracked my sleeve and I instantly turned it off. The moroso comes with a 3-4inch bright red light, so its not like you are going to miss it.

Also, i wouldn't want a kill switch, as if you had it set to 20psi and you put the car in neutral and it idled, it would get down to 15psi and boom, car turns off.....

 

yes i have the moroso light so i know the adjustability of it. with that being said you could make sure that it was set to kill the car at a lower pressure than idle. and i may not be the best racer in the world but i dont think ive ever put the car in neutral going town the track

 

How would you start the motor up? I dont think the oil pump makes 15psi before 350-400 rpms. If the oil pressure is below that, how would you get spark/fuel or whatever you are cutting?

Also, most of the new honda's 2 cycle motors (5hp, 8hp lawnmowers and such) have a low oil psi warning light that actually shut's down the motor at certain low oil psi. I will take a look at my and see how it's wired

Adriano

 

OIL PRESSURE SAFETY SWITCH
Our Summit oil pressure safety switch shuts down your engine when your oil pressure drops below 7 psi, saving your engine from damage. This switch comes with complete instructions and wiring diagram.

 

Me and a few people are in the process of getting some very strong gears made for these pumps. Made out of material that is used in a lot of high budget pro cars that make 1400+. Once i have more info ill let you guys know the cost if interested.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E Town DSM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Me and a few people are in the process of getting some very strong gears made for these pumps. Made out of material that is used in a lot of high budget pro cars that make 1400+. Once i have more info ill let you guys know the cost if interested.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hook us up

 

In due time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E Town DSM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Me and a few people are in the process of getting some very strong gears made for these pumps. Made out of material that is used in a lot of high budget pro cars that make 1400+. Once i have more info ill let you guys know the cost if interested.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adriano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How would you start the motor up? I dont think the oil pump makes 15psi before 350-400 rpms. If the oil pressure is below that, how would you get spark/fuel or whatever you are cutting? </TD></TR></TABLE>

you could have an initial start up switch that disables the low oil pressure function. or even just a button you hold down while cranking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you could have an initial start up switch that disables the low oil pressure function. or even just a button you hold down while cranking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wire the switch in parallel with the oil pressure switch. so durning cranking you have the switch on. once the car has started turn the switch off and the oil pressure switch will take over