Need some high compression starter help
Well this is my build so far...
bottom end:
b18a1 sleeved 85mm
14:1 cp pistons
eagle rods
b20 crank
acl race bearings
head:
b18b1
3 angle valve job
oem valves
.010 milled
403 cams
ssr cam gears
That gives and idea of my compression ratio. Also its making over 300psi during compression testing ( i do not know exact on account of it only reads to 300 ) now my problem is eating up starters fast. Im at 1500 miles and am on number 4 already. I cant seem to find any high performance starters online only ones for v8 guys and such. Any information would be a great help!!!!
bottom end:
b18a1 sleeved 85mm
14:1 cp pistons
eagle rods
b20 crank
acl race bearings
head:
b18b1
3 angle valve job
oem valves
.010 milled
403 cams
ssr cam gears
That gives and idea of my compression ratio. Also its making over 300psi during compression testing ( i do not know exact on account of it only reads to 300 ) now my problem is eating up starters fast. Im at 1500 miles and am on number 4 already. I cant seem to find any high performance starters online only ones for v8 guys and such. Any information would be a great help!!!!
Take no offense on this comment but i have to ask. How does retarding the timing help from preventing starter failure? I would say the cylinder pressure wouldnt change with pulling timing on start up. any more info on the start retard would help. I was looking around the S300 and didnt see a start map ignition compensation.
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have no idea what "starter retard" is, but it sounds like the theory behind it is if you retard your timing, the valves will be open longer thus creating lower compression upon start. thats just my guess. dont take my word for it.
What engine management system are you using?
What fuel?
How many cranks does it typically take to start the car?
What battery are you using?
Starters typically fail when cranking under lower voltage...a good tip a great tuner once gave me (randy Schoener) is put a battery charger on the car and nail down your starting, cranking and battery offset tables while giving the system a solid voltage, then fix any other inconsistencies once you have it starting nicely on the charger.
"back cranking" can also kill a starter super quick if your cam/crank trigger patterns aren't set correctly
This isn't retarding the timing on the cams....just at the plug
What engine management system are you using?
What fuel?
How many cranks does it typically take to start the car?
What battery are you using?
Starters typically fail when cranking under lower voltage...a good tip a great tuner once gave me (randy Schoener) is put a battery charger on the car and nail down your starting, cranking and battery offset tables while giving the system a solid voltage, then fix any other inconsistencies once you have it starting nicely on the charger.
"back cranking" can also kill a starter super quick if your cam/crank trigger patterns aren't set correctly
What engine management system are you using?
What fuel?
How many cranks does it typically take to start the car?
What battery are you using?
Starters typically fail when cranking under lower voltage...a good tip a great tuner once gave me (randy Schoener) is put a battery charger on the car and nail down your starting, cranking and battery offset tables while giving the system a solid voltage, then fix any other inconsistencies once you have it starting nicely on the charger.
"back cranking" can also kill a starter super quick if your cam/crank trigger patterns aren't set correctly
Im using s300 running e85, it starts usually 2 or 3 cranks in and I had to put my battery in my girls car so im buying a new everstart today.
I always believed it was just my compression killing them? I have never really had a problem like this and could not find a performance starter.
This isn't retarding the timing on the cams....just at the plug
Starters typically fail when cranking under lower voltage...a good tip a great tuner once gave me (randy Schoener) is put a battery charger on the car and nail down your starting, cranking and battery offset tables while giving the system a solid voltage, then fix any other inconsistencies once you have it starting nicely on the charger.
Starters typically fail when cranking under lower voltage...a good tip a great tuner once gave me (randy Schoener) is put a battery charger on the car and nail down your starting, cranking and battery offset tables while giving the system a solid voltage, then fix any other inconsistencies once you have it starting nicely on the charger.
I really want to build the fastest non vtec thats been done but probably wont happen until the real head work that wont come out till next season i just wanna see where i am at then try to take the ls head as far as it will go and try to hit a 12000rpm setup
Good luck with this......
i just do this now, so much easier lol. when the car has sat in 35-50 degree weather for a long period and then you go and crank it, its next to impossible so i just shoot a spritz of fluid in and it literally takes 2 hits and its live!
This is how we started with the car I adjusted the base cranking pulse vs ECT table in Smanager and it would start in our 30-40 degree winter we had this year. But now the car is eating starters. Don't know if there may be a better starter someone sells or some more suggestions? i can rework the battery tables and double check to be 100% positive.
I did not read every post on this thread but make sure you have a good clean ground from the battery and a location close to the starter (on the trans maybe). Also if the tranny is painted this could cause a problem to the starter. another grounding issue...
Grounds could cause an undervoltage condition too.
Grounds could cause an undervoltage condition too.
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