This is a build thread and will be updated wit questions/pics/info/details as they happen. i own a 91 integra w/ 96 gsr setup but i plan on leaving that as it is and building a strictly track car.. hopefully a crx. i have an awesome paint/body guy that painted my DA. im going to build motor and car in house but im in no means an expert so thats why obviously these threads are created. so any help would be appreciated.

my DA
http://www.flickr.com/photos/61666822@N02/5882478334/http://www.flickr.com/photos/61666822@N02/5882478334/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/61666822@N02/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/61666822@N02/6274673201/http://www.flickr.com/photos/61666822@N02/6274673201/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/61666822@N02/, on Flickr




heres what im workin with on new motor setup and evolving build..

so basically ive been buyin good deals that i see or hear about from friends selling parts or whatever and even some parts online and now i have a dissassembled ls vtec motor and a 250 shot of nitrous. im waitin on the block to be delivered along with the nitrous and then ill have pics of that.

heres a few pics of stuff that ill be using and adding too as time goes on.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61666822@N02/6274596193/http://www.flickr.com/photos/61666822@N02/6274596193/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/61666822@N02/, on Flickr

b16 head is fresh out the machine shop with b16 camshafts and valvetrain but that will all never go on. im trying to learn information on selecting the appropriate camshafts for this setup.

i plan on getting head p&p. benchflow tested and matched to im and tb.
complete high performance valves n valvetrain will be added.

i have a del sol intake manifold for nitrous setup also coming this week.

i picked up a hondata s200 setup a few months back. just need to get ecu modified to work with it because the one that came with is non vtec ls boost.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61666822@N02/6275149904/http://www.flickr.com/photos/61666822@N02/6275149904/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/61666822@N02/, on Flickr

the block is a b18b1. je low compression flat dome pistons i believe and eagle rods. b20b micropolished crank. i plan on rebuilding both bottom and top end with new bearings/gaskets/seals/rings and everything else i can manage.. defintely sleeving block too safeguard my investment.


thanks for any info suggestions advice or whatever.

the NITROUS setup is definitely something new to me so if sound like a newb lol oh well hopefully not for long. so its a nos 250shot wet direct port setup i believe.

My first question is so by using a b20 crank does that raise my displacement to a 2.0???

 

Negative sir, a b20 crank is the same as the b18 crank. Only difference between the b20, and b18 is the piston size, in which causes the .2 liter difference in size.

 

ok koo thanks bro.

 

do u guys think sleeving the block is necessary to run nitrous at like 150-175shot???

 

Imma say yes and no, depending on who builds it and who tunes the car. Assuming its a wet kit, its best to tune the motor to its potential, and then tune the nitrous separately, reason being is because the only way I have and multiple people im associated with (mainly domestic small displacement v8 stuff) have tuned our nitrous cars 150hp+, we've always got the tune up right on the motor and start with the nitrous. Reading plugs and adjusting timing as needed is the only way I've ever tuned nitrous cars running wet kits over 150hp jets. A programmable ignition will be your friend when activating nitrous that way it doesn't run like doodoo on motor, but to answer your sleeved block question, its always better to have a lil extra security if you mess up. Hope this helps (I tend to ramble about nothing sometimes)

 

x2 very well said

 

thanks bro i was having thoughts that thatd be the way to do it... well i plan on building it myself. have golden eagle do the sleeving.. ima take it to a local metal shop and have it balanced and blueprinted.. as far as tuning, im thinking either eugene at pro street or bubba at do it dyno..

i plan on running jg edelbrock victor x manifold, skunk2 fuel rail, 310cc injectors, msd 6al, full valvetrain and low compression valves, and etc etc..

im just waiting on this crx to hopefully be dropped in my lap so i can make that the car for this motor setup...

also i am for sure running acl race bearings, arp rod bolts, arp head studs, golden/eagle ls vtec kit, hondata im gasket, type r oil pump and water pump, new gaskets/seals all around.. hopefully ill find a B16/LSD trans.

 

IMO sell the s200 and get s300 and i would run a dry direct port setup and let the ecu add the fuel.

 

+1

Or run a standalone fuel system if you wanna go wet.

 

x 2 .. ditch the S200 and go S300 or Neptune RTP and use either programmable outputs to control the nitrous, or adjust fuel for when nitrous is spraying.

 

ok i am new to this so its to the best way i can explain from what he told me but my boy whos helping mes going to hook it up to where nitrous only sprays when pedals all the way down no manual button. as far as adjust for nitrous fuel maps cant s200 do that??

im listening to you guys im just asking questions. because for the prices i got everything i almost want to do the best to make it work and the reason i think its feasible is because at one time there was no s300 and dudes were doin it just as strong and reliable wit da right tuner on s200 imo.

 

Get a real set of injectors and s300 so you can run dry instead of wet.

Look at it like this...solenoids fail all the time injectors rarely fail in fact ive never seen an RC or ID injector fail but ive had a ton of solenoids fail. If your running a wet kit and the fuel solenoid fails shut then what happens? Boom GAME OVER

I ran a 195 shot back in the day on two kits using s300 outputs to control it. S300 is more reliable than a wide open throttle switch. Switches fail and ruin your night at the drag strip.

Nitrous is fun dont make it dangerous to your engine by cheaping out.

 

f that dry stuff, wet is easier to tune. And dont have to rely on you computer to add fuel or retard the ignition, wet systems all you do is tune the motor for full potential then have your ignition box retard the timing then have colder plugs and go Easy till i see record breaking set ups ill keep my wet shot any day

 

I've always used wet set ups too, but there are several key advantages with going dry now.
Dry is definitely the way to go.

 

So what your saying is that you trust you 5k engine to a $10050 solenoid and afternarket ignition box? You might want to analyze that for a minute. There is a reason that mascara run two mad ignition boxes in their cars at all times both with the ability to switch them on indipendantly. CAUSE THEY FAIL ALL THE TIME ha ha. What's more reliable a factory ecu with hondata or an ignition retard box?

I say all this because I have real work experience with every type of nitrous set up there is. I have been working for one of the southeast best tuners for years. We have out own synopsis and specialize in Honda's and Porsche's. We've tuned more cars than you can imagine.

You go ahead and keep handing out bad advice anyway, its not your car or money.

 

Do dry with large inj n ur good once u flip switch ecu adds fuel n pulls timing everthing in one box n u can add fail safes I had a fuel sel lock up n blew my ls went dry n had ecu controll fuel n never had problem n I can tune spot on I'm using neptune rtp

 

well im just saying what i have and what works good for me. you cant bring nascar in this way diffrent types. My box has always treated me good, and yes i would. What if your computer screwed up. **** happens. I always hear dry dry dry, still waiting to see crazy fast nitrous hondas. Thats why im in for shooting wet and being close to the first honda being a del sol at that go into the 9's well see. I will tell you it will be wet FTMFW Let you know next year

 

This car is a k-series dry nitrous car. Ran a best of 10.31 @ 135mph.
Probably faster than that too. Runs it on the street.



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i have always used a dry shot with big injectors and aem ecu controlling it....
and also you wont be the first honda in the 9's on spray only....there have been hondas in the 9's on just pure allmotor and there's rummor's that those have been sprayed around for fun and some possibilly have gone in the high 8's....granted theese are stripped down 1800lbs car's probally with close too 600whp but people have played with idea just for the need for speed.......i think it would be cool if idrc/wcf allowed nitrous honly cars too be lighter in the street class's too compete with the 800whp plus turbo guys.....

look at the street class all motor hondas running low 10's at 2200lbs....take the same car gutted(1800lbs) with a 100shot and probally be right on the hells of the 67trim guys..let alone add the proper nitrous head work/pistons and header/induction in the mix on those low 10sec cars u probally could spray a 200-300shot dual staged too really rip....

you can try and tell people wet is better all you want...and yes you can go fast on wet...but nitrous is nitrous and fuel sprayed throught the injector instead of a nozzle is more percise...more percise means more control and more power...

 

well well see, still to see that 9 sec video on a spray honda, if they exsist lets see emm. But whatever you go with it will be nice, good luck on your build and your choice. Oh and you and the aem, i tried it and lets say if i trusted that one dyno pull i would have lost my motor JFYI. Not downing aem cause its what i have. Weres the cage in that hatch by the way?

 

Its a street race car.

Look up gi jane on youtube. Thing hauls ***.

 

were are the track vids all i see is street videos,

 

Thats my friends car an yes it went 10.31@135 mph video is on youtube i belive its under IDRC 2011 by ososik productions car has been running good

 

from some pro guys i hear nano is garbage, how did that work

 

alota of the import guys here are all turning to it with excellent results.