Let's Talk Dynos!
We use a Mustang 1100SE, a 2WD model. We like it, but personally there customer support hasn't been too great. The guy we often deal with, Ed, tries to talk down to you and when we got the Dyno 7 years ago they where still using ISA boards in the CPU. They want $8-10k to upgrade to the new style, so we have just been making our stuff work. And other then the occasional issue we have been able to keep things going.
I've heard that the quality of Land and Sea dynos suck, but that was years ago. Maybe they have stepped it up.
Whatever you get make sure you can properly load the car. I hate inertia only dynos. When I travel and tune I always try to find a shop with a Mustang Dyno or something that can load. Then I try to put the same settings in for the cars as I do here to keep things consistent.
I've heard that the quality of Land and Sea dynos suck, but that was years ago. Maybe they have stepped it up.
Whatever you get make sure you can properly load the car. I hate inertia only dynos. When I travel and tune I always try to find a shop with a Mustang Dyno or something that can load. Then I try to put the same settings in for the cars as I do here to keep things consistent.
What I have learned with Mustang, its all and who you deal with out there. There are some helpful ones out there.
Watch out for the financing. The way it was explained to me is that you will always pay interest on the entire principle, no matter how much is owed [unless its zero].
[QUOTE=zmainiac;45451367] Turns out the three closest dyno shops bought mustang dynos and people that i have talked to would rather go to a dynocom or dynojet to get the higher readings.[QUOTE]
higher readings don't equal a better tune. You won't get the same translation from dyno to street/track or on a jet or dynacom.. Thats where the difference in dyno comes into play.
higher readings don't equal a better tune. You won't get the same translation from dyno to street/track or on a jet or dynacom.. Thats where the difference in dyno comes into play.
One thing I have learned is get the best tuning tool you can afford. If thats not what your buying it for and your plans are to make it back 3 pulls at a time. Chances are, your about to lose your *** off, and have a fat payment per month to remind you.
So many shops flop because they buy dyno's for the wrong reason. It's a big expense and if you are a new shop without a lot of back up revenue in place for those "hard times" it can be your end.
I have a dynojet 224X. I love it. Simple and it does what i need it to. I always consider selling it. (I have another full time job that keeps robbing me more of my time).
The biggest thing about having it, is the bullshit that comes with it. Mainly the cars that are no where near ready for the dyno, Cars built off ebay, Core supports getting riped off because they are tacked on and cars falling off. Hose clamps used to hold intercooler pipe on, Gas leaks, Oil Leaks. No dump tubes. Ebay Boost controllers. Check engine lights. Idle Air control Sensors. O2 bungs. hearing "I only have $xx much money".
Then you got the "they tuned me car with to much timing and i keep blowing gaskets". yada yada....
But if you or anyone else is interested I would sell my dyno for a great price! haha
The biggest thing about having it, is the bullshit that comes with it. Mainly the cars that are no where near ready for the dyno, Cars built off ebay, Core supports getting riped off because they are tacked on and cars falling off. Hose clamps used to hold intercooler pipe on, Gas leaks, Oil Leaks. No dump tubes. Ebay Boost controllers. Check engine lights. Idle Air control Sensors. O2 bungs. hearing "I only have $xx much money".
Then you got the "they tuned me car with to much timing and i keep blowing gaskets". yada yada....
But if you or anyone else is interested I would sell my dyno for a great price! haha
THAT IS ****ING CRAZY MAN! lol.
I was tuning at a shop in Vegas back in May. The guy had a sign up in the shop that basically said $200 for ANY fluid spills, and he stuck to it. Can't say I blame him. People will have **** leaking and then you gotta mop and brake clean for a hour after they leave. I'm getting pickier with what I'll tune here at the shop and I've raised my prices just to weed out the cheap asses.
http://www.efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5394
I thought it looked promising, and safe @ 50-75k
75k being the ac drive motor option
Anyone know of some of the cost of the awd entry level dynapacks? I heard 70k?
I don't know about the AWD units, but our 2WD Evolution 3000 model was $64,000 in 2008.
I love our DynaPack, but we have had our fair share of problems with it. Namely a pressure transducer in one pod that made it read very liberally, and set screws in the same pod that hold a wheel speed trigger keep loosening up.
Besides that, the system is solid, and super repeatable.
- Derek
I love our DynaPack, but we have had our fair share of problems with it. Namely a pressure transducer in one pod that made it read very liberally, and set screws in the same pod that hold a wheel speed trigger keep loosening up.
Besides that, the system is solid, and super repeatable.
- Derek
I use the Dyno Dynamics. I love using the Eddy current.
Being that these are Inertia based dynos my sensor went out of calibration.
I called tech support and said they wanted me to send them $550.00 just for tech support for one year. What a bunch of BS.
Being that these are Inertia based dynos my sensor went out of calibration.
I called tech support and said they wanted me to send them $550.00 just for tech support for one year. What a bunch of BS.
I can't say enough good about the Mainline. Definitely one of the better investments i've made. The capabilities of the system as a whole are incredible.
Something cool we ran into. We have a big GTR build in the works, doing some custom turbo stuff on it and want a lot of data on it. The Mainline dyno has a CAN datastream output that you can run into a Motec ecu (having a real time torque graph or value on your laptop screen when tuning, how cool is that!). So i'm setting up my Motec SDL dash as a dyno logger and the CAN output from the dyno will be coming into the dash. All of our logs will have all the turbo data (compressor inlet and outlet pressure, MAP, turbo rpm, exhaust backpressure, lambda, etc), HP, TQ, and roller speed. Pretty cool if you ask me.
The Mainline has a ton of inputs as well for logging, but you can't beat Motec's i2 analysis software for interpreting the data.
The load control on the Mainline works amazing. Some of these AWD cars are very sesnsitive between front and rear wheel speed differences and will throw codes and what not on a lot of dynos. Some dynos require a 'link' between beds to keep roller speeds the same, but the Mainline is able to maintain tolerance by only the PID load control, lots of dynos have issues trying to do the same. The PID control is targeting equal speeds front and rear.
Something cool we ran into. We have a big GTR build in the works, doing some custom turbo stuff on it and want a lot of data on it. The Mainline dyno has a CAN datastream output that you can run into a Motec ecu (having a real time torque graph or value on your laptop screen when tuning, how cool is that!). So i'm setting up my Motec SDL dash as a dyno logger and the CAN output from the dyno will be coming into the dash. All of our logs will have all the turbo data (compressor inlet and outlet pressure, MAP, turbo rpm, exhaust backpressure, lambda, etc), HP, TQ, and roller speed. Pretty cool if you ask me.
The Mainline has a ton of inputs as well for logging, but you can't beat Motec's i2 analysis software for interpreting the data.
The load control on the Mainline works amazing. Some of these AWD cars are very sesnsitive between front and rear wheel speed differences and will throw codes and what not on a lot of dynos. Some dynos require a 'link' between beds to keep roller speeds the same, but the Mainline is able to maintain tolerance by only the PID load control, lots of dynos have issues trying to do the same. The PID control is targeting equal speeds front and rear.
The load control on the Mainline works amazing. Some of these AWD cars are very sesnsitive between front and rear wheel speed differences and will throw codes and what not on a lot of dynos. Some dynos require a 'link' between beds to keep roller speeds the same, but the Mainline is able to maintain tolerance by only the PID load control, lots of dynos have issues trying to do the same. The PID control is targeting equal speeds front and rear.
Only other AWD Dyno I've seen that can Dyno one besides mainline is the mustang Dyno and only reason they can is because there front and rear rollers are connected.
I've dynoed lambo's, Audi r8, 996/997, bentley, trailblazers, hummers, and many other AWD cars and all work like a charm.
Mainline software is the best and most powerful Dyno software I've ever used.
Once Tony realized he could connect his MoTeC equipment directly to his Dyno he was in heaven. Lol.
steve, i know this is an old thread but i too have been looking into the dynomite dyno. 2 of the main reasons are the price, and the location. driving 30 mins up the road to get parts ect is a big plus. if i do pull the trigger and get a dyno the dynomite is in my price range. i still work m-f 8-5 so ill pretty much only use it on the weekends until i can afford to leave my day job, if ever. the unit i am looking at now is 14k. i dont have the best of credit, but my credit union will swing me 14k no problem. i can see dropping 30k on something i may get limited use. a lot of people;s who opinion i respect tole me to start off renting. but at $100/hr renting one 2-3 good dyno sessions a month could run me $600-$900 a month here i can own my own machine for around $300/mo. plus with my weekend availability i wont have to fight with dyno owners about when i can use their machine.
it may not be the best machine out there, but its a solid start. and your not stuck with it forever. use it, in 2 years i am sure it would have pay for itself and you pocketed enough money to throw down on an upgrade.
it may not be the best machine out there, but its a solid start. and your not stuck with it forever. use it, in 2 years i am sure it would have pay for itself and you pocketed enough money to throw down on an upgrade.
about 2 months after my last post i brought a used water brake dual 12" dynomite locally. short money. i haven't used it much, but its a decent machine. def worth the money. tech/customer support is pretty decent. they did juer me making me rebuy the software. the software its self is pretty crazy. its very detailed and powerful. the systems design is pretty basic. the one thing i dident like was the 28 channel DAQ harness. a lot of the leads where too short, others too long. i am in the process of building my own. Land and sea provided me a clean PDF of the harness diagram.
In April I bought a used Clayton water brake for my garage (at home). Coincidentally I learned how to tune on this same dyno before I owned it and probably have more hours on it than any other.
When I want to use it I'll just run the garden hose into the garage and hook it up. Return hose goes to sprinkler and waters the lawn. lol
https://www.facebook.com/Motovicity/...type=1&theater
When I want to use it I'll just run the garden hose into the garage and hook it up. Return hose goes to sprinkler and waters the lawn. lol
https://www.facebook.com/Motovicity/...type=1&theater



