Let's talk bead-lock wheels
With control arms. My wheels are custom made and I wasnt about to pay for a wheel that I couldnt use and I wasnt about to gring or cut my control arms to make them fit.
I've been putting anti-seize on the rim screws and it just feels a LOT better when screwing them on. I always felt I was right on the edge of snapping screw heads off and pushing my luck without it. just easier with it.
Champion beadlock did a great job on my Spinwerkes wheels....
You do need to make sure you offset the wheel out an extra 1/2 inch to prevent the inner screws from rubbing the arm...
We mounted mine with a flathead and some WD40... once you get 2-3 inches of tire over the bead, the rest of it slides on like a glove!@
You do need to make sure you offset the wheel out an extra 1/2 inch to prevent the inner screws from rubbing the arm...
We mounted mine with a flathead and some WD40... once you get 2-3 inches of tire over the bead, the rest of it slides on like a glove!@
Champion beadlock did a great job on my Spinwerkes wheels....
You do need to make sure you offset the wheel out an extra 1/2 inch to prevent the inner screws from rubbing the arm...
We mounted mine with a flathead and some WD40... once you get 2-3 inches of tire over the bead, the rest of it slides on like a glove!@
You do need to make sure you offset the wheel out an extra 1/2 inch to prevent the inner screws from rubbing the arm...
We mounted mine with a flathead and some WD40... once you get 2-3 inches of tire over the bead, the rest of it slides on like a glove!@
from what i have read, on other forums, a 15inch wheel with 5 inch backspace (double bead locked) will have clearance issuses with the brake caliper (not on a honda forum)
right now, with the way my car is with the drop spindle, i had to shave off the castle nuts on the lower ball joint, because they were scratching/ rubbing. with the double bead setup, i probably couldnt even get the wheel on the car.
right now, with the way my car is with the drop spindle, i had to shave off the castle nuts on the lower ball joint, because they were scratching/ rubbing. with the double bead setup, i probably couldnt even get the wheel on the car.
for me is the best thing I ever did.
Last 60 ft with the car 1.27 and the run before 1.28 (2 different weekend)
but when I start to make some tire shake it look worse.
Yesterday pascal forget (blue hatch honda) was at ours track he when 8.57 169mph!!
Last 60 ft with the car 1.27 and the run before 1.28 (2 different weekend)
but when I start to make some tire shake it look worse.
Yesterday pascal forget (blue hatch honda) was at ours track he when 8.57 169mph!!
im just saying the the notrogen molecules are bigger & the tires will hold air longer than reg air.
si it is tru, lol
Like Damian said, you have to plan out what wheel backspace you are going to use since you need additional clearance on the backside when you get the beadlock added.
Another important thing is the brake clearance on the Inside Diameter of the wheel. Keep in mind, lets say a 15" wheel has an actual 14" I.D. Lets say your brake/caliper setup needs about 13.5" at least to clear. With a non-beadlock wheel, it would obviously clear it. But when you add the beadlock ring, the ring sticks out of that ID and makes that clearance smaller. So instead of an actual 14" ID, it becomes about 13.5" So you are right on what you need to pass that beadlock ring over your brakes. You may have to maneuver it a bit, but it can work. Its on a case by case basis so double check first and make some measurements before you finalize the wheel size you want.
ID clearance issues on a 15" usually only occurs with bigger brakes or MarkWilliams/Nitro type setups which use bigger rotors and brakes. IF you're using OEM integra calipers, the ID clearance is much smaller, so you dont have to worry about that on a double beadlock.
Another important thing is the brake clearance on the Inside Diameter of the wheel. Keep in mind, lets say a 15" wheel has an actual 14" I.D. Lets say your brake/caliper setup needs about 13.5" at least to clear. With a non-beadlock wheel, it would obviously clear it. But when you add the beadlock ring, the ring sticks out of that ID and makes that clearance smaller. So instead of an actual 14" ID, it becomes about 13.5" So you are right on what you need to pass that beadlock ring over your brakes. You may have to maneuver it a bit, but it can work. Its on a case by case basis so double check first and make some measurements before you finalize the wheel size you want.
ID clearance issues on a 15" usually only occurs with bigger brakes or MarkWilliams/Nitro type setups which use bigger rotors and brakes. IF you're using OEM integra calipers, the ID clearance is much smaller, so you dont have to worry about that on a double beadlock.
Diamond racing wheels, they are a little heavy with the bead lock 15-16lbs. When we first purchased these wheels no other bead lock was available, tired of the leaking slick, plus we were thinking safety first.
Another thing with beadlocks is the clamping force of the beadlock ring. The beadlock ring should be made of a material that retains its clamping force. The rings bend and as it bends it has a clamping force that holds the tire down. In the long term, if the beadlock ring bends and stays bent even without the tire on, its starting to loose its clamping force. The ring should return back to its normal shape so when it bends with the tire on. If it does, it will still have the same force to hold the tire down.
To sum it up. Here are the things to know about beadlock rings.
1. Inside Diameter Clearance(Ring I.D.) to clear your brake calipers/rotors.
Its different from the actual Wheel I.D. The ring will be a bit smaller than the wheel ID.
2. Backspacing: Plan ahead when you chose your backspacing on the wheel. The beadlock adds about 1/2" on the backside. So if you are running it close to the suspension, make sure you have enough clearance. One way to manipulate the clearance is adding spacers in combination to achieve the spacing you want.
3. Beadlock ring material: Make sure the material is of quality that it will retain its clamping force. The beadlock rings bend as they hold the tire and softer/cheaper aluminum will stay bent. The ring should bend and retain its original shape when the tire is off. That is how it keeps its clamping force.
1. Inside Diameter Clearance(Ring I.D.) to clear your brake calipers/rotors.
Its different from the actual Wheel I.D. The ring will be a bit smaller than the wheel ID.
2. Backspacing: Plan ahead when you chose your backspacing on the wheel. The beadlock adds about 1/2" on the backside. So if you are running it close to the suspension, make sure you have enough clearance. One way to manipulate the clearance is adding spacers in combination to achieve the spacing you want.
3. Beadlock ring material: Make sure the material is of quality that it will retain its clamping force. The beadlock rings bend as they hold the tire and softer/cheaper aluminum will stay bent. The ring should bend and retain its original shape when the tire is off. That is how it keeps its clamping force.
just want to bump this thread.
do you guys usually use single beadlocks only or double?
aside from Champion beadlock,any other company that does it for non beadlock wheels?
do you guys usually use single beadlocks only or double?
aside from Champion beadlock,any other company that does it for non beadlock wheels?
Beadlocs are use to keep the bead from pulling off the rim.... If ypu can't beadloc both sides of the rim..don't do it its worthless....every rim and tire combo should be balanced. If your rim is 2 or more inches wider than your tire...and your car is FAST.. you need them..... Beadlocs are for safety
Beadlocs are use to keep the bead from pulling off the rim.... If ypu can't beadloc both sides of the rim..don't do it its worthless....every rim and tire combo should be balanced. If your rim is 2 or more inches wider than your tire...and your car is FAST.. you need them..... Beadlocs are for safety
Beadlocs are use to keep the bead from pulling off the rim.... If ypu can't beadloc both sides of the rim..don't do it its worthless....every rim and tire combo should be balanced. If your rim is 2 or more inches wider than your tire...and your car is FAST.. you need them..... Beadlocs are for safety
Single beadlocks serve there purpose and it ISNT about keeping the tire on the rim..... and I'm guessing 200+mph isnt FAST...
My wheels are single bead locked, with screws on the inside. Done my OMF out in California, super quick turn around and turned out awesome




I had OMF do mine too through CNY Performance. I opted for the lightweight beadlock option and I'm glad I did. There is more uniform clamping force than the non-lightweight option. (see above)
Sorry for the Instagram action.... lol

Sorry for the Instagram action.... lol

[QUOTE=nonvtecallmotor;47848441]
Single beadlocks serve there purpose and it ISNT about keeping the tire on the rim..... and I'm guessing 200+mph isnt FAST...[/QUOTE
Sigh !
Single beadlocks serve there purpose and it ISNT about keeping the tire on the rim..... and I'm guessing 200+mph isnt FAST...[/QUOTESigh !




If you don't mind my asking, what brand wheels and beadlocks?