When I went searching around for information on mounting mine, I found pictures were few and far between. So here are a few. This is in my EF. I'm working on making the wiring nightmare a little cleaner, so cut me some slack on that. It's a low buck drag car, it ain't a piano.

If you're about to do this, I hope you find it helpful.

The first pictures were a staging brake I made with a clutch master cylinder. I had a HELLUVA time here in small town America finding fittings to make it work, 10x1.0 and 8x1.0. So I mounted the CNC version instead. And I put in a brake pressure gauge too. Did it need the gauge? probably not. It's neat to watch and interesting to see how much force it takes to get the rear tires to skid, so I think it adds consistency.

I will also add this... I HATE making double flares... you'll see what I mean when it's your turn to do this if you haven't before. All the solid line is 3/16. The AN fitting stuff is -4. I wanted to use -3, but didn't have the correct ends at the time, and you know how that goes, when in Rome... I will also add this. Set aside a few hours to learn how to make double flares on some scrap line. When you're in your car cutting the factory lines, that is NOT the time to find out you should have practiced making flares. I made about 16 of them the first night practicing, my hands were raw. The success rate was like 25%... Man, I was cussing. I took my tool to a hotrod buddy that does a lot of brake lines, I said, "Show me the correct way to use this damn thing." He proceeded to make about 4 of them that sucked. We then broke out his tool and we made nice flares. My cheapy, as it would seem, was slightly mis-machined. I don't use it now, and picked up another one, and my flares are better. All the more reason to practice a bit.

I had 3 small leaks initially, and got them all ironed out. YEA, I know... I got a few extra nuts on a few of those lines... it was late... ...lol... I think the brakes (as a whole) are stronger than they've ever been, and the staging brake works as it's supposed to. AND, I still have the full 4 wheel brakes so I can SCCA the car. I'm happy with the outcome.












Yea, I see it. Your turn to do the same thing is coming up. I suppose it's better to have one extra nut on there than be short one... and I did a few where I forgot to put the nut on it... You probably heard my scream from outer space. Man, that's frustrating. Give yourself an inch or two between a bend and your flare. If it's super tight the first time, you don't have enough metal left to make another flare if it leaks or you bone it.

 

nice! cnc 412?

 

Yes. I like it. I looked at the ksport one too, also very nice. I ran this one for the first time this last weekend. LOVE IT, I'm done pulling the E-brake in the water box and on the line. I wish I'd had the courage to just do this a long time ago. Very happy with how it works in the car and for staging. Even helped my burnouts. They are considerably better and more controlled.

It's a basic GSR on slicks. Normally I have enough power to get them loose, barely. Now I have enough braking force to help keep it in one spot and actually build some heat until you hear that loud "screech" and the car lurches forward. best looking burnouts I've had with the car. and I think I'm building better heat and traction.

 

Nice, I like your fab work.

I mounted mine were the stock ebrake was. Just looks like a ricy ebrake handle. Master cylinder and res. are hidden under the arm rest. Even doubles as a hydro ebrake.

 

What are you seeing for pressure with the staging brake applied? Rear disc or drum?

Thanks

 

X2 I'm curious as well...

 

Rear drum. The pressure I'm seeing, to be effective (skid the tires, locked up) is in the 600-1000 range. I'm going to bet that number varies GREATLY between cars, depending on rear end weight, tire condition and pressure, is the surface wet or dry or dusty or rubbered up, and condition of the brakes.

I bet some guys can lock them up at 500 and others at 1200. It's a decent "pull" to get them to lock, but NOTHING like it was trying to lock the rears hard using just the E-brake. I do wonder if having that bit of -4 line in with the 3/16 has any effect (-4 is larger in diameter), but I'm guessing it does not. as it starts in 3/16 and finishes in 3/16 (or whatever is the metric equivalent that comes on the car). So any larger diameter tube, mid way, should have no effect, just store more fluid in the system.

I am having a weird thing that cropped up. You have to power the gauge with a "keyed hot". When I just turn the ignition on now, gauge works. When I start the car, the gauge isn't working now. I was kind of blaming wiring... I "THINK" and this is a guess, is that the gauge is working and wiring is fine, but air doesn't compress like a fluid, and I'm wondering if I don't have an air bubble hanging about in the line near the sending unit.

Now, that said, maybe I need to bleed the brakes again, I dunno. But the car, as a whole stops well, and evenly. I re-did the brakes last year, new pads, had the drums turned. Probably 40-60 miles on them since.

I'm not any kind of brake "guru" but I'm learning it, and making an effort. I'll also add this. The old brake fluid I pumped out looked all dark, like old iced tea. Maybe a guy should flush his brakes out once in a while like you read about. My brakes are indeed better now.

 

Here is a simple rule for you.... pressure is pressure. Doesn't matter if there is air in the line it will still feed back on the sensor as if no air was ever there. The only time it matters is if you are comparing differential pressure or two similar readings.

FWIW on my 2400lb DC2 it takes about 800psi to lock up the rear. I run discs in the rear.

Line size should be related to master cylinder size. Larger master means you can run a larger bore tube. You can also use a larger master for feel, and work. Sounds like you have a good think going though.

Good info!

 

Git ya a HR chassis and enjoy holes already drilled for the staging brake

 

^^^salesman of the year^^^

 

You just gave me the motivation to do this in my EF as well...good $hit bob!

 

Love the fab work. Its truly inspirational. One question though. Is their not some sort of check vavle inline somewhere? or does the prop valve stop the entire system from being pressurized?

 

i wonder if i would benefit from gettin one of these...

using the ebrake to preload, do you guys think the time it takes to let the ebrake down on the launch can affect your e.t. at all? i wouldnt think it would much but then again having the ebrake up just a tenth of a second creates a little more drag i suppose. what do you guys think? i mean staging brakes do release faster than the ebrake would right?

 

My guess, probably the same release time.

 

What about just getting Line Locks. What do you guys see the Pro Vs. Cons between the Line Locks and the Staging Break.

 

line locks are way more time consuming to get right during the staging process.

 

I am having problems getting my CNC 412 staging brake to work properly, I installed it inline like the picture above, teed inline with the rear brakes, pressure bleed it air free. the problem I have is my foot brakes does not work, the only way I can get pressure on the staging brake is to press the foot brake first, but when I want to stop the car with foot brakes it does not stop, everything is installed according to installation diagram and bleed free of air.
what am I doing wrong? is this the normal operation? or do I need a extra proportional valve inline with the rear brakes, I would rather not use the rear brakes for normal foot braking on skinnies. what are my options to get the unit working?

 

Maybe you hooked the lines up backwards? Take pictures.

 

I went over and over to check my installation. do I need another proportional valve?
the people who are using the hand brakes, does the regular brakes work normal without the use of the hand brake?

will take some pics when I get the car in storage, hopefully this weekend.

 

has anyone tried to run these CNC 412 staging brakes ever tried to run them off their own reservoir in order to eliminate the food brakes working on the rear? or is it possible to use and adjustable proportional valve installed before the staging brake to turn down the rear pressure to the minimum pressure it will go and still allow the staging brakento work?

 

^^ many people run a reservoir on the staging brake and run a line from there to a T and then to each rear caliper. then the brake master to a T and then to each front caliper.

 

but this is the CNC 412 the one without the reservoir , does it need pressure from the foot pedal to the feed port, or can a clutch reservoir be substituted for the feed ?
don't see it wouldn't work but CNC said it will not.

 

What tread size in/out hose in 412 staging???

 

sorry to bring this back up, but what you are saying is that when people are running the ones with the reservoir from cnc or whoever, that the only way you are using your rear brakes are through the staging brake and your foot brake only works the front. or are you saying that when you hit your foot brakes that all 4 brakes still work and the staging brake really only applies pressure to the rear... reason I'm asking is because I'm in the process of doing a chasebays brake tuck on my integra which has 4 wheel disc's and I'd like to add a cnc staging brake, would I just T this system into the rear, or would that cause problems?

 

in addition to the brake tuck I'll be running the 4040 prop under my dash. so I'd think it would make adding the staging brake a bit easier