same set up as me, but after i get this figured out i would like to work on setting up the car and working on what ever bugs i will have after the tune.once its all dialed in i plan on upgrading to a dox box gears set in the future and i dont know if there are any guys out there running those gears with a hasport cable to hydro conversion?..i know i wont be..

 

im staying stock myself but im only shooting for a little over 700

 

Actually, when I got my mount kit it came with a bracket so that I could run a cable clutch setup with the hydraulic tranny.....

 

Chris at Hasport explained to me that sometimes that their Cable to Hydro linkage gets a bad rep. He went on to say it was originally designed to for stock clutch applications. So when guys are using heavy duty clutches and expect the same result their part gets bashed.

No worries Robert. Im still here to help you.

I had a great thread going on here in HT that was deleted, which was explaining reasons why some cable to hydro vehicles were "harder" then others.

Many years ago when working at Collective Autoworx we had the same issues using Hasports part. Most of them EFs. Most of these swaps were using stock clutches and again some were hard and others worked like OEM. Ive seen thread after thread... Mines hard, F Hasport...Mine works just fine... blah blah blah... Ive experianced then same thing with our customer cars. I spend so many hours trying to figure it out. I though it was something I was doing wrong. Id have to remove transmissions clutches etc... Many hours lost and pissed off customers. It just became one of those things. It may work just fine it may feel "hard" we explain to each customer.

So In 2008 I made my own full hydro conversion to elimate the cable and if it was hard well at least there wasnt a cable to break as many of our customers would come back to get replaced at our expense. We didnt have to pay for the replacement cable it was just good customer service concidering we recommend, sold and install the linkage for them. From that point I search and found almost every assembly for every make and model EF Honda made, so I could measure the mechanical advantage differance between them. IMO that had to be what was going on. I thought for sure that was going to be the issue. What did I find? Its the same lol. EXCEPT for DAs. The figures are proprietary, but I will tell you it is less then optimal.

Xenocron mentioned the angle that the CMC is attached to the clutch arm... this is force angle and yes I agree.

In closing, Keep in mind these cars were NEVER made to be hydro. That is MORE then obvious when you make the calculations. Yes the force angle and mechanical advantage/leverage could be much better however to make a "bolt on" product, there is little we can do to change that and keep this part an affordable choice at the moment.

 

i've been working on something to try and help on the problem. as hush22 said, it's really difficult to fix yet keep it cost effective. i'll be testing our solution soon.

food for thought: i'm running my hydro conversion in my crx with a comp twin disc. yes, there is a little flexing (approx. 1/16" defelection) but mainly at the end of pedal travel. the leverage is just a little greater than an eg so the master cylinder bottoms out first and in our instinct we always push the pedal until it won't go any further. so, i went to observe an ek we had in the shop. factory pedals, -3 line, factory clutch, etc. look carefully at the firewall - omg flexes as well. although it is a slight flex but still flex... i wonder what that firewall looks like with a twin disc.

 

I'm sure guys who need a twin disk also would be willing to pay more for a different bracket or pedal assembly. The only other option i can think of would be a total new clutch pedal assembly like a floor mounted tilton or wilwood setup.

 

With my setup this is what is going to happen. That is why I thought that about adding a spacer between the floor and where the pedal bottoms out to reduce some of the flex that I will certainly put on it. As far as deflection, I have yet to experience any of that yet since I do not have a clutch installed in the car. I may have to brace my setup a little better after reading this. I think I saw someone mention bracing it on the firewall some more.

 

yes after i try the hydro throw out bearing,and i dont see any improvment i will trying the wilwood floor mount pedal.

thx hush22, i know if i cant figure it you will ,you definantly have more time vested in this problem than i do but now that my cars is together this is the only issue i have befor i can tune it and test it.so i will be trying a what ever it takes my self to get it done.

it may sound like were bashing the hasport kit but i see it as were just not interested in using a cable no more..the hasport kit works great ,i have used it many times with great success.but never at this level. my car is now a race car so the parts have to be compatale with whats available..

 

well thats what i am is strictly a race car now, and actually layed down 700 to the wheel lastnight, but we were having issues on another level.

most people go from the cable because they want a race car with grandma-mobile feeling clutch lol.

 

hell ya grandma-mobile felling clutchs is what its all about!! oh ya and reliability..

 

im still not understanding where the reliability part is coming into play here just because its a cable clutch

and i have been waiting for the good information on it to come out to see how it comes into play with me so i can look out for myself in the future

 

This is my problem with the cables. This is a brand new oem one after 15 miles. The 20 year old plastic just isn't good anymore. Even after being opened from a sealed package.

 

thats crazy was this in the stock tranny or a b16/gsr tranny???? with the hassport mounts???

 

Im in for a resolution to the hush stiff clutch issue I love the kit and robert is always willing to help Im just wondering if there is a way to ease the pressure up some its a pain to preload and I haventeven put mytwin in yet.

 

This was a completely stock S4C with Hasport cable to hydro conversion and stage 3 Action clutch using Innovative solid mounts(mounts shouldnt matter).

The clutch pedal was ungodly stiff, and I was not really surprised this happened. Btw this happened getting on the highway driving normally. Shifted into third, went for fourth and the pedal was on the floor.

 

I am using the hush22 bracket with a wilwood master (Tilton twin disk and a Tilton hydro release running the Mfactory PRO gears) ... Zero problems! I have no complaints. Last time on the dyno, the car made 600 HP (450 ft/lbs).

Hats off to Hush22 on a good product.

 

[QUOTE=bert3734;46936849]I am using the hush22 bracket with a wilwood master (Tilton twin disk and a Tilton hydro release running the Mfactory PRO gears) ... Zero problems! I have no complaints. Last time on the dyno, the car made 600 HP (450 ft/lbs).

Hats off to Hush22 on a good product.[/QUOTE

thx bert for sharing what is working for you ,as soon as i get my tilton tob ill be back to share what the results of that are...

i am also wondering if any one has any input on the 2 different HRB that tilton makes.i found that the part # for the one that others have used is the # 62-7770 kit.?any input on them?

 

I did my own full hydro conversion last year using an oe slave and master, a -3 line and fittings from mo_spec. I ended up welding a ton of strap metal up under the dash to make it as solid as I could. Its a stiff pedal, but I think its because of pedal geometry. Cable car and a hydro set up. I will not complain though, after its was all braced up it feels solid and the pedal has a smooth consistant throw. Get rid of the cable!

 

I am sorry you had a problem with your car, let me know if I can help.

Hasport does not reccomend our MECHANICAL "cable to hydro" conversion (part no. EFBHCL) for anything other than a stock clutch. We have literally sold thousands of them and they work really well with a stock clutch and okay with some mild performance clutches. The EFBHCL solution uses no hydraulics, only the stock clutch cable and a billet aluminum linkage to operate the stock clutch fork.

We have a HYDRAULIC "cable to hydro" conversion (part no. CMA) that works well with ANY clutch intended for your Honda car.
With the CMA the stock cable is used to actuate a clutch master cylinder which in turn actuates the stock slave cylinder.

I hope this post clears up any confusion when referring to Hasport "cable to hydro" conversions.

 

This is what I have done minus the bracing. I am sure I will need to do some bracing once it is all together and I start working the bugs out.

 

i purchased a suja1 last mouth i spoke to them on the phone and they had all there kits will support a twin disk but in his race car he also added a wilwood MC i wont be testing mine for a couple of months yet

 

Hey Keith, I have nothing but respect for Hasport and The customer service you provide. I hope you were able to read my earlier post explaining that the Mechanical Linkage was made for stock applications.

Again to those that still may misunderstand the "stiffness" Has little to do with any hydro conversion. Its the EF pedals them selves.

 

ide like to see some install pics of the cma myself

 

NOT HASPORTS PART but similar only picture I have to help you understand.

 

wow very nice piece