Battery Kill Switch Mounting Location...
Here's the scenario:
I have a relocated battery in the trunk. The local drag strip tech guy says that I now have to use a kill switch. Thing is he said that it needs to be accessible on the outside of the car..somewhere on the back.
Any ideas on how/where?
Any know of a place online that has the rules/regs about how/where a kill switch should be mounted?
I have a relocated battery in the trunk. The local drag strip tech guy says that I now have to use a kill switch. Thing is he said that it needs to be accessible on the outside of the car..somewhere on the back.
Any ideas on how/where?
Any know of a place online that has the rules/regs about how/where a kill switch should be mounted?
On my crx I removed the keypop and remove the center light from the car and put it there.. I have seen people that also put it behind a tail light and just remove the light at the track..
The switch has to be marked which way is off and on..
The switch has to be marked which way is off and on..
I just mounted Will's in his rear bumper, worked fine, wasn't too incredibly ugly, and was easily accessible. It's labeled now, don't worry...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just mounted Will's in his rear bumper, worked fine, wasn't too incredibly ugly, and was easily accessible. It's labeled now, don't worry...</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only thing that scares me about that is if you drive your car on the street and someone walks by and flips the switch or something.. I mounted mine behind the center light lense and I remove it at the track.. When im not at the track it is covered by the lense..
The only thing that scares me about that is if you drive your car on the street and someone walks by and flips the switch or something.. I mounted mine behind the center light lense and I remove it at the track.. When im not at the track it is covered by the lense..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The only thing that scares me about that is if you drive your car on the street and someone walks by and flips the switch or something.. I mounted mine behind the center light lense and I remove it at the track.. When im not at the track it is covered by the lense..</TD></TR></TABLE>
your car runs off the altenator when its running...not the battery
The only thing that scares me about that is if you drive your car on the street and someone walks by and flips the switch or something.. I mounted mine behind the center light lense and I remove it at the track.. When im not at the track it is covered by the lense..</TD></TR></TABLE>
your car runs off the altenator when its running...not the battery
Yea, I have two switches on the car wired in parallel. On the streets the one in the trunk is always turned on, so even if the rear kill is shutdown it makes no difference. At the track we turn off the one in trunk. The rear is also wired into the alternator relay, so if it were to be shutdown with the trunk one off, the car would die.
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Yea, I'll start working on a diagram. I have class, homework, and a lot of studyin' tonight so I don't know when I'd be able to get it done. None the less, I'll get started when I have time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mandopr77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your car runs off the altenator when its running...not the battery</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know that.. But the kill switch must be able to cutoff the battery and alternator from the rest of the car meaning when you flip the switch the car will die..
your car runs off the altenator when its running...not the battery</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know that.. But the kill switch must be able to cutoff the battery and alternator from the rest of the car meaning when you flip the switch the car will die..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, I have two switches on the car wired in parallel. On the streets the one in the trunk is always turned on, so even if the rear kill is shutdown it makes no difference. At the track we turn off the one in trunk. The rear is also wired into the alternator relay, so if it were to be shutdown with the trunk one off, the car would die.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just put a high current relay hooked up the same as the kill switch.. If the relay is on and you flip the switch nothing will happen, if the relay is off then the car will die with the switch flipped..
Just put a high current relay hooked up the same as the kill switch.. If the relay is on and you flip the switch nothing will happen, if the relay is off then the car will die with the switch flipped..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just put a high current relay hooked up the same as the kill switch.. If the relay is on and you flip the switch nothing will happen, if the relay is off then the car will die with the switch flipped..</TD></TR></TABLE>
That won't work unless you're talking about using a massive high current relay to break the heavy 8 AWG power line running from the alternator to the fuse box, and does that seem reasonable? I don't think so... I'll get my diagram up later and you can see why it won't work otherwise.
Just put a high current relay hooked up the same as the kill switch.. If the relay is on and you flip the switch nothing will happen, if the relay is off then the car will die with the switch flipped..</TD></TR></TABLE>
That won't work unless you're talking about using a massive high current relay to break the heavy 8 AWG power line running from the alternator to the fuse box, and does that seem reasonable? I don't think so... I'll get my diagram up later and you can see why it won't work otherwise.
We did an article on this in the Feb/Mar issue of OverRev (the one with the SBR Pro RWD cars on the cover). Even has a wiring diagram and everything.
Im not talking about running the alternator to the fuse box.. you run the alternator to the battery in the rear and fuse it.. Then when you cut power your cutting the alternator/battery from the line going to everywhere else in the car..
When you turn off the switch the car must die meaning you have to cut off the alternator also..
And im talking about a 200 amp high current relay..
When you turn off the switch the car must die meaning you have to cut off the alternator also..
And im talking about a 200 amp high current relay..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, that makes sense but you didn't specify the routing of power wires before...
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I assumed that you were running the alternator to the battery since that is the only way I can see to do it..
So if you have a cutoff switch that kills all power to the car, if you also put a high current relay "bypassing" it then if either the switch or relay is on the car will have power, if you disengauge the relay and the switch then the car will die..
</TD></TR></TABLE>I assumed that you were running the alternator to the battery since that is the only way I can see to do it..
So if you have a cutoff switch that kills all power to the car, if you also put a high current relay "bypassing" it then if either the switch or relay is on the car will have power, if you disengauge the relay and the switch then the car will die..
Okay, so I put off my homework for a bit to get this diagram done... Probably not the smartest move but whatever!
It's not the greatest but I had to do it fast so hopefully that's understandable. Also, sorry for the shitty quality. I run my monitor at 1600x1200, so when I'm working in Paint, Photoshop, etc. my canvases are pretty big. Then when I resize and convert from .BMP to .JPEG the quality goes to ****. It's been resized to 1024x768 but if anyone is finding it difficult to read just let me know and I'll link you the full res version. Just didn't want people to bitch.
It's not the greatest but I had to do it fast so hopefully that's understandable. Also, sorry for the shitty quality. I run my monitor at 1600x1200, so when I'm working in Paint, Photoshop, etc. my canvases are pretty big. Then when I resize and convert from .BMP to .JPEG the quality goes to ****. It's been resized to 1024x768 but if anyone is finding it difficult to read just let me know and I'll link you the full res version. Just didn't want people to bitch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just mounted Will's in his rear bumper, worked fine, wasn't too incredibly ugly, and was easily accessible. It's labeled now, don't worry...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was going to start a new thread but I used the search
I also have to put a kill switch but I don't want to do it like this 'cause I'm scared if someone tries to steal the car they could kill the alarm with the switch. Does anyone have any pics of the ones behind the lights.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I was going to start a new thread but I used the search
I also have to put a kill switch but I don't want to do it like this 'cause I'm scared if someone tries to steal the car they could kill the alarm with the switch. Does anyone have any pics of the ones behind the lights.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k-series »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who has the switches for sale?
Steve</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate to sound like a noob, but I'm learning so try to cut me some slack. I searched on Summit and such and what came back didn't have pics with them and the descriptions aren't much help.
Flaming River Big Switch and Lever Kits
Kill Switch, Dual Circuit, Disconnects Battery and Magneto, 250A Continuous, 2500 Surge.
Can someone explain a few of these features and/or what I need for my EG with a K20A2? I'm assuming that the "magneto" is the alternator, but I'm not sure.
Thanks!
Steve
Steve</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate to sound like a noob, but I'm learning so try to cut me some slack. I searched on Summit and such and what came back didn't have pics with them and the descriptions aren't much help.
Flaming River Big Switch and Lever Kits
Kill Switch, Dual Circuit, Disconnects Battery and Magneto, 250A Continuous, 2500 Surge.
Can someone explain a few of these features and/or what I need for my EG with a K20A2? I'm assuming that the "magneto" is the alternator, but I'm not sure.
Thanks!
Steve
With just a slight glance, the only problem I see with Kataku2K3's design is that your using a DPST cutoff switch.. All the ones that I see are SPST switches.. And when using a SPST switch, even if you cut power like that the alternator cutoff wire is still going to see power since the alternator is going to be "creating its own power"..
nhra rules state if the car is running by putting the switch to the off position should kill the car.
the way i mounted mine on my crx was behind the license plate,when i was at the track i would take the plate off put the handle on when i left the track id take the handle off and put the plate back on an it would be hidden
the way i mounted mine on my crx was behind the license plate,when i was at the track i would take the plate off put the handle on when i left the track id take the handle off and put the plate back on an it would be hidden
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nos3tc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nhra rules state if the car is running by putting the switch to the off position should kill the car.
the way i mounted mine on my crx was behind the license plate,when i was at the track i would take the plate off put the handle on when i left the track id take the handle off and put the plate back on an it would be hidden</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly..
the way i mounted mine on my crx was behind the license plate,when i was at the track i would take the plate off put the handle on when i left the track id take the handle off and put the plate back on an it would be hidden</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly..


