Hey guys...starting putting my motor back 2gether and I had ordered a ATI dampner for it. Well the stock crank pulley goes on/off fairly easy. When I went to put the ATI on it got tight on the crank shaft really fast. So pulled it back out. Started reading and people have said that u got to mic the crank and machine the dampner to slide on....does this sound correct to u guys? Anybody running these dampners and how smooth did ur install go? Thanks guys. Any help is much appreciated.

 

I have a street version and it is the same. I have not tried to force it on yet since I have lots of other things to do. I would hate to have to machine it right. That would through of the balance and everything.

 

They are a press fit, it is absolutely necessary to be pressed on in order to function correctly if they are not tight they won't do their job. To the people that machined them....lol might as well be running one of those chinese blue ebay pulleys.

 

I'm not sure if they pressed on but there definitely a bitch to get on. But it can be done without a press and no damage to pulley.

 

Ok, I'll Prob just take it to the local machine shop and let them press it so if it messes it up they gotta replace it...lol thanks guys

 

i think there is a special tool that is suppose to be use to install it, i remember reading it on someone thread but can't recall it.

 

Harmonic Dampers need to be properly coupled to eliminate the harmful vibrations. I've always been surprised at how Honda, Mazda, and a few other companies have such sloppy tolerances on the damper to crank interface. Unbolt damper and it falls off :eek:

Here are a couple of good reads...
http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/101/index.htm
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...mper_dinan.htm

And you will need this type of installer/remover for easy on/off.

 

Warm the hub then it should go on a little easier, I used the oven in the house warmed it to 90 degrees started to slide on then finished the rest with a long bolt and some big washers.

 

They are supposed to be tight to work properly as previously stated. Use anti-seize on the June and crankshaft block of wood and a BFH if you don't have access to a pulley installer. Don't have at it like an animal either. Pulley puller works wonders for removal. If using the block
And hammer method remove the outter inertia ring and only put it on by the hub. Bolt on the ring later

 

I just put the hub on and ran the crank pulley bolt down with an impact... That pulled the hub down tight. Nothing fancy it's just a tight fit. I haven't had any problems doing it that way.

 

my pulley is machined. goes on tight, comes off hard. the instructions even ssy to hone the pulley.

 

I have always done it this way with zero install problems, but i back off the bolt and then use a torque wrench for the final 140# torque amount.

 

I started to do it that way but it got tight fairly soon...and I didn't wanna mess it up so I quit and backed it back out. Was afraid of stripping the crank. Might try the heating method 2marrow, maybe even set the block by the ac vents in the house to get the crank shaft cold..... If not it will go to the machine shop mon...thanks guys

 

To much overthinking here.

 

My fluidampr was the same, I used a thin layer of antisieze to avoid galling and the crank bolt to drive it on with an impact gun. Just gotta be easy with the gun. And to remove the kit shown above works wonders

 

just have it machined. next time you work.on your car you're going to be pissed off the pulley is stuck.

 

The pulley is intended to be an interference fit per the instructions. You need to get hold of a harmonic balance remover tool to get them off or other creative means.

Like others, I just tightened it on with the crank pulley bolt, slowly with a wrench to make sure it was going on ok. Final step to torque bolt.

 

Too much thinking here lol!
I just put anti-seize on mine and push it on as far as it'll go and use the crank bolt to press it on and be done! No probs here!

 

How was it taking it off after just using the pulley bolt method

 

Get a brake cylinder hone from any auto parts store, and a drill. Use some oil with the hone. You don't need to go crazy. Just hone it for a few minutes. Also any lube on the crank and hub will work. Don't use too much as you don't want it all over the T-belt. Don't forgat lube on your crank bolt, and torque to spec.

 

tap it on with a rubber mallet until you are sure its going on strait, then use the bolt to pull it in... I use a gear puller to get it off though.. its a bitch.

 

X2

 

The manual says no lube on crank bolt when installing.

 

Shop manual from Honda says to lubricate the crank bolt every time you torque it.

 

Again this is when you are torquing it down. I guess you don't gotta do it if you are just installing the pulley.