i have a set of GSR ARP's i was just wondering what the torque spec on them was....


thank you

 

80 ft lbs

 

I heard it vary's depending if your using moly lube or oil,something like that.Please dont flame just something i read somewhere on ht.

 

67 with ARP lube, 80 without.

 

Official Instructions from ARP:


install studs with double nut

make snug then quarter turn

Install at 70lbs

Heat cycle 10times (heat then cool for 30 min)
loosen each stud then retorque to 75lbs

installation without ARP moly is not recommended

 

dont forget to tq them to 30lbs 1st then 65-70 lbs2nd this preloads the heads studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BustaNutt-616 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Official Instructions from ARP:


install studs with double nut

make snug then quarter turn

Install at 70lbs

Heat cycle 10times (heat then cool for 30 min)
loosen each stud then retorque to 75lbs

installation without ARP moly is not recommended
</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow i thought it was hand tight?

 

the sheet that came with the studs say hand tight first!

which is it?

 

yes, i know but we have done much testing and have not had good results with hand tightening. when asking arp about the problem they gave me the instructions i posted.

 

It would be good if they made that public knowledge. I just built my motor as per there website

 

Hand Tightening Sucks...I always double nut that **** with Moly Lube.

I'm really **** about making sure all the studs are perfectly even...anyone else?

Suprdave

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hand Tightening Sucks...I always double nut that **** with Moly Lube.

I'm really **** about making sure all the studs are perfectly even...anyone else?

Suprdave</TD></TR></TABLE>

same here

 

I got mine within 10 thou and that was hand tightening (as per website)

 

weve done hand tight on 25lbs of boost and havent had a problem but maybe we should start to double nut it just to be safe

 

I suppose you have to go with what the makers recommend,eh?

 

80 lbs.i did mine exactly to their specs and wound up having to re-torque them to 80lbs.that is what the guy at arp told me to do.

 

how tight should u make the studs into the block?...and should u use the arp lube for the studs goin into the block or just the nuts for the head?

 

the studs just go in hand tight.

 

I double nutted the studs to 20 ft/lbs, then did a three step tightening on the nuts... something like 25, 55, then 72. I clened the stud holes (in the block) with air to make sure they were clean, then used assembly lubs on the studs, and on the nuts.

Im replacing my oil pump this week and I will see if they are at the same levels.

 

I didn't have much luck trying to just hand tighten the studs into the block. After I got done, each stud was at a slightly different height. I torqued them down to 10 ft-lbs (double-nut) and that put each stud at exactly the same height.

Sonny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BustaNutt-616 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Heat cycle 10times (heat then cool for 30 min)
loosen each stud then retorque to 75lbs

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please don't take offense to this personally but that is a ridiculous thing to do and makes no sense at all. If someone at ARP told you to do that, I would love to have their name.
Re-torquing head studs has to do with the type of head gasket you use and not the stud. No Honda head gaskets available today require this. Why would you take a perfectly sealing head gasket and loosen all the nuts, break the seal and then chance warping the head by re-torquing each bolt to a higher number. Whoever put this advice out should be fired and I would love to tell him that to his/her face.
Having said this, if you want, you can go in after one recycle and RE TORQUE the nuts to the exact same pounds as before just to see if all is ok. Never loosen or torque to a higher poundage.
As far as installing the studs, you can put them in hand tight if you run a tap down the threads in the block first and clean them perfectly. However most people don't have the ability or the tools to do this so it is ok to torque the studs down to 5 lbs or so in order for them to be at an equal height in the block. Any more than 5lbs actually negates the clamping values of the studs.
If you do retorque and you find one very loose, something else is failing (probably the threads in the block). Anymore than 75lbs of torque on a Honda head puts you in danger of warping the head.

 

i had a problem yesterday with my head studs....i put them in hand tight then did double nut quarter turn like arp said to do...so first i torqued them at 32lbs then i torqued them at 52lbs..then for the final step i went to torque them at 76lbs...but when i went to 76 i think the bolt was turning in the block further cuz it never torqued at 76 it just got tighter and i know i was over torqing it..so i stopped and now im stuck...and i dont know what to do...i broke em all lose again so i can start over but i wanted input on what to do.....has anyone had this problem b4?......hoping u guys can help me out....thx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Please don't take offense to this personally but that is a ridiculous thing to do and makes no sense at all. If someone at ARP told you to do that, I would love to have their name.
Re-torquing head studs has to do with the type of head gasket you use and not the stud. No Honda head gaskets available today require this. Why would you take a perfectly sealing head gasket and loosen all the nuts, break the seal and then chance warping the head by re-torquing each bolt to a higher number. Whoever put this advice out should be fired and I would love to tell him that to his/her face.
Having said this, if you want, you can go in after one recycle and RE TORQUE the nuts to the exact same pounds as before just to see if all is ok. Never loosen or torque to a higher poundage.
As far as installing the studs, you can put them in hand tight if you run a tap down the threads in the block first and clean them perfectly. However most people don't have the ability or the tools to do this so it is ok to torque the studs down to 5 lbs or so in order for them to be at an equal height in the block. Any more than 5lbs actually negates the clamping values of the studs.
If you do retorque and you find one very loose, something else is failing (probably the threads in the block). Anymore than 75lbs of torque on a Honda head puts you in danger of warping the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>


As I mentioned nefore we were told the same thing twice when we called ARP. We were weary on actually loosening and retorquing however so we just pulled the cams and retorqued or checked the torque only without loosening since it would break the seal n the headgasket. Our thoughts exactly Earl.

 

When is the eyeball gonna move, earl?

Sonny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sonny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When is the eyeball gonna move, earl?

Sonny
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it's kinda scary him watching us all the time , huh Sonny? SPOOKY!