I am looking at buying the ARC 8000 switch setup. Was wondering if anyone had any feedback about it and where the best/cheapest place to buy one is.

 

They are about $30 cheaper on jegs than summit. Don't know if someone has found cheaper. But Google shopping will be your best friend in finding it for good prices.

 

Jegs is the least expensive. Someone might crawl out of a hole and offer otherwise though haha.

Just got mine from Jegs.

 

jegs...i love my arc panel wouldnt have anything else now

 

Hard to beat jegs these days with their free shipping and discount. 8 switch arc panel for 260 shipped is a great deal.

 

is everyone running their fuel pump directly off the ARC itself? or is anyone using the ARC output to engage another relay with fuel pump on that one?

 

My ARC runs my Magnafuel Pro Tuner 750. No issues.

With that said, love my ARC switch panel.

 

weldon 2345 straight off the board... super nice product imo so simple and extremely versatile.

 

Best money I ever spent on my car. wired her up with no issues.

 

There we go!

Ive been running an aeromotive Pro and they are pretty hungry, not as much as the 2345 however.

 

So you guys are running the fuel pump with no relay and using the ARC switch on the power side with no failures?

 

The ARC comes with a panel that has relay for each switch.

 

it has its own relay board its seriously idiot proof .... matt im also on 16v system if that says anything about the quality of auto rod control products

 

ARC 8000 here too, works great, but I am thinking about switching to a Motec PDM to clean things up a bit. Never an issue with the ARC unit, I'd recommend it..

 

Use the 8000 in my 16v all motor car. Love it. Wired the whole car from it and was a breeze. No oem wiring left in the car.

 

I got the 4000 and now I regret it, not enough buttons!

 

It's a decent kit for the money, and is simple enough for anyone to install (even those without any wiring experience) - but it has a few downfalls:
-Open PCB, should be put into an enclosure. Anything conductive dropping onto the board when the car is on and that's it.
-Ribbon cable from switch to board is not the most rugged, connections for both are LIF unsealed - similar to those you'd find in a desktop computer
-No option to trigger relays from anything other than the switch - without heavily modifying the board. Think: car crashes, you're knocked out, but your fuel pumps are still running.

 

That's what your kill switches are for, and I have two of them

 

I don't agree. When an ECU is capable of controlling a relay if there's sync - then you're best off using it for your fuel pump(s). A kill switch is not a replacement for this.

 

You're talking about in the instance of a crash correct? I have to kill switches connected to the same main power breaker that feeds the whole car including the relay board. I think that's about the only way to accomplish this lol

 

The only way a kill switch will help you in turning off a fuel pump that is wired to a switch only trigger like your saying is:
A) you have a push/pull style switch that is mounted in the area the car hits - and the wall actually pushes the switch off
B) you hit in a way that your BAT + shorts to NEG - and your breaker trips - removing the power input to the ARC and in turn any relay with it's switch 'on'.

This is all worst case scenario and assuming the driver is unconscious and can't turn the cabin mounted kill switch or fuel pump switch (in this example) off. It's safety...cheap and easy shouldn't be a part of it getting done.