hey i went to the track the other day its an 1\8th mile track. and i noticed my 60ft times blow *****.

so my question is whats the best way of bringing them down without using drag radials or slicks. im in a 94 civic with z6 motor i\h\e IM gsr tb suspension is b&g springs tokico illuminas.

i cant get the pos to launch worth a **** it eithers wheel hops bogs out or spins. i have tried to launch anywhere from 250rpms-5000rpms. and there is no sweet spot for this car.

i had the shocks as stiff as they get. and the best 60ft time i could get was like 2.4

 

well w/o good tires, traction will be a losing proposition. dont dump, dont preload, just feather the clutch the whole way out.

 

well i have tried with 14 inch no name tires and i have also tried with 205\46\16 falkin ziexs.

whats some suff i can do to get rid of wheel hop? i have polyurethane motor mount inserts. with that master kit help any?

 

bump

 

You are trying to fix a problem without using what fixes it, if u have traction problems yet u dont want to run radials or slicks

there are somethings to help improve performance, but realistically tires are the biggest answer

Make good suspension/rear stiff setup with help with car not transfering weight as much to rear,which will help keep front planted more> second make sure good alignment, set tires pressures low as possible without tearing up the tire, if its a steel radial i would not run much lower then 25 psi, dont do a burn out, just spin the tires enough to get anyting thats on them off, like boostedcivicsir said, no preload, no dumping, launch lightly and pedal, Loosing weight, and getting it to move without spinning is going to be hard without good tires.

PS forgot to mention traction bars, this could help some more as well

Hope this helps

dan

 

even before poulling up to the line i try to just spin them a little and it just wheel hops. its freakin embarrasing haha. i just put inserts in and i figured they would help but they really didnt much at the strip

 

its hopping because it is trying to bite vs just spinning and blowing the tires off
and since the tires dont flex like a slick/drag radial its got hard sidewalls which also help it hop vs grab

hope this helps

d

 

goood info

 

Yeah I was hoping like crazy too and I have hasport mounts
full poly kit
traction bar
omni full suspension.

I think I was hoping because of the Hard sidewalls on the Azenis RT-615 I was running.

My best 60ft time ever was a 2.44sec with my b18c Type R.

 

sticky tires are just a crutch if you cant properly launch a low powered car on street tires. ive got buddies that pull 2.0s on the regular on every day 205/50/15 street tires. i firmly believe in getting the max out of what i already have before throwing more parts into the equation, that way i can see what improvement was made wit hthe addition of said part or tire. That being said, i have pulled 2.0's on kumho all seasons (205/50/15) in a full weight, STOCK GTi VR6. im now pulling 1.7X's on 22 inch slicks in a higher powered N/A VR, but there is still much to be had (1.6x) out of the 22s before i finally step up to the 23s

 

so whats a good 60ft of all season tires with the stiff sidewalls??? like 2.0????

 

With my 5th gen prelude, I usually pull high 2.1 and low 2.2's. One time I really broke out and hit a 2.076. I set my TEIN SS's to 10/16, tire pressures to 24/40. I have falken ziex 512's (205/50/r16). Gutted the back, weighed the car at capitol raceway with me in it at 2900lbs. To get those times I spent a lot of time practicing my launches. I feather both my gas and clutch. The trick is feeling traction, when you lose it and when it returns, and smooth throttle inputs when traction returns.
Good luck,
-Greg P

 

lot of good info.

i'm going to go against what some are saying and tell ya to run as low a pressure as possible and do a small burnout. 10psi is where i'm typically at and heat them till you just see smoke.

1.9-2.1 is where you should be with non drag radial dot's. with BF's you should be 1.9-2.0 all the time.

 

are you all doin this with open diff or what?

 

open diff for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trickeng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lot of good info.

i'm going to go against what some are saying and tell ya to run as low a pressure as possible and do a small burnout. 10psi is where i'm typically at and heat them till you just see smoke.

1.9-2.1 is where you should be with non drag radial dot's. with BF's you should be 1.9-2.0 all the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

with a normal street tire, at such a low pressure you actually begin to LOOSE contact patch. typically, much less than 22psi and the outside of the tires will be touching while the center part of the tire will begin to cup UP and away from the road. not only are you loosing contact patch, and thus traction, on the big end of the track that low air pressure is just gonna be crippling your trap speed.

 

so u usually want about 25 in front and 35-40 in the rear???

 

yea tonight was my first time ever at a track, and i have super shitty tires and my 60 footers were 2.3's!!!

 

on street tires ive seen everything work, 2nd gear burnouts for a long time, then sitting at the line holding rev limiter and dumping it, on garbage 185/60/14's pulled low 60' and went 14.6 with a stock ls motor in a hatch...this goes to show you every car is different, for some reason with my car no matter what tire i put on it my worst 60' is a 2.1 (even on 155/70/13's on vx wheels proven) Is your clutch holding the power and when you are spinning are you getting out of it or keeping in it, back peddling may be needed here.
as for your suspension. harder isent ness better, i am on stock shocks and garbage coil overs and on slicks its mid to low 1.6's every time out

 

clutch is holding it fine i have a act hdss clutch. no i didnt back pedal. im guessing back peddling is when u start to spin slowly ease off of the gas and then back on it?

 

get i vid so we can help you get traction,

are you driving like your tryen to break it?"

 

haha yes always do. no im not taking it easy off the line if that is what your asking

 

PIC street strip combo (F10k/R18k)

traction bars

LSD

poly suspention bushings

DR's

gear dependant boost(if boosted)

limit straps

sub frame connector

F & R LCA's

and prey


its a loosing battle trying to get traction in a FWD car, but these are some things that help

 

thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmfkid250 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on street tires ive seen everything work, 2nd gear burnouts for a long time, then sitting at the line holding rev limiter and dumping it, on garbage 185/60/14's pulled low 60' and went 14.6 with a stock ls motor in a hatch...this goes to show you every car is different, for some reason with my car no matter what tire i put on it my worst 60' is a 2.1 (even on 155/70/13's on vx wheels proven) Is your clutch holding the power and when you are spinning are you getting out of it or keeping in it, back peddling may be needed here.
as for your suspension. harder isent ness better, i am on stock shocks and garbage coil overs and on slicks its mid to low 1.6's every time out</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you saying you pull 1.6 60ft time only pushing enough HP to turn 14.6 on street tires????
your joking right? brian ballard runs 1.6 60ft. our 600hp hatch runs 1.6 60ft. my h22ek NA ran 13.3 on slicks launching at 6000rpm on 22's full traction and it squeeked out mid to low 1.8 60ft.

by no means is a 1.6 60ft easy to run.