Im doing some search on solutions to ditch the now expensive wagowan rear diff since it allready has wrong ratio and id like to skip it.
I refuse to believe it isnt anything close to 2.53, stronger and/or cheaper from the CRV: edit: Wagovan

So far:

- 2002 Jaguar X typer ratio 2.53
- xxx DANA 35 rear differential ratio 2.53
- "BMW 2.56" various models many many results just google BMW 2.56
- 2014 Kia sorento 2.0 had 2.53 and a electric valve to controll it. (NEEDS MORE RESEARCH FOR THE GEAR RATIO)

 

Why haven't you considered the Element rear differential?

 

Element and CR-V contain a pump unit and clutch pack.

My guess is no one wants to play with them, they would rather run the viscous coupler and "normal" rear end.

 

 

https://automotiveknd.com/shop/drivetrain/dual-pump-quick-spool-system-dpqs/

 

 

Full time lockup leads to binding like a true transfer case truck 4x4. Also leads to ripping the PTO off the trans in the Honda world. Need something to slip to allow for the different wheel speeds.

Bisi visited Hoonigans with his K powered AWD wagon running the dual pump rear end with above mentioned upgrades. He claims it works well on his 900hp setup.


Bonus with the dual pump is the pressure release solenoid to electronically decouple the rear end. I believe this was done for ABS reasons.

 

Is he running a 2012+ unit?

 

Thought the only change was new clutch plates?

 

The 2012 model crv rear differential changed and I haven't found any information whether they are compatible with the older models.

 

You mean CR-V? Element only ran to 2011.

 

That link you posted mentioned AT vs MT final drives. Not finding rear end ring gear part numbers to compare. I think the rear ends are all the same ratio with the ring gear in the transmission dictating the final drive ratio.

Makes sense they would all be the same rear ratio if they are all driven off the front differential case through a PTO.

 

Had a look at the service manual for an 03-05 Element. No mention of the rear end being a different unit for AT or MT.

 

Yeah I removed the link because of the last post in that thread. I thought it would cause more confusion than help.

 

 

Looked up a 2000 CR-V

MT PTO: 29000-PEP-000
AT PTO: 29000-PDM-000

MT PTO Hypoid gear set: 29210-PBX-000
AT PTO Hypoid gear set: 29210-PBX-000

The PTO input shafts are a completely different style. AT is a shaft with a gear cut into the end of it. MT is a splined shaft with a removable gear. No idea what the tooth count is between them for a total PTO ratio.

The whole assembly is not the same.

 

Kia sorento 2014 is supposed to be 2.53 ratio. Also has electric control valve on it...

 

I’m curious about all this my self. I’ve read a lot about binding and what not. I don’t really care about awd. I want to slide my Honda sideways. To do awd from what I understand you need a Viscous Coupler to make up for the front and back variations in speed of the wheels. Now if I just put cv studs in the front no axle. And run a drive shaft with no VC to the bakc wheels would it not be just like a normal RWD car. If I’m not using the front 2 wheels for any force other than turning will I still have binding? Or will it act like any other RWD car (ie 240sx). From there could the rear diff be welded or one of those spring square things that lock up the diff be used and just have the normal chirping of the tires when you turn like again 240sx with a welded diff. I’m very curious. Oh and in my research I found a list of Chevy and GM rear diffs and axles many of them 3-2.7 FD.

https://www.drivetrain.com/parts-cat...m-or-chevrolet

 

Sell your car and buy a RWD vehicle. Hondas don't slide.

 

Really I didn’t know that. Thank you for your 2 cents. I’m

 

That idea will break the **** out of the PTO. That little baby PTO is not designed to take 100% of the drive torque.