Wire sizes for 3kwatts
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From: Jacksonville, FL, United States
what size wiring would i need for my system..i will be running one 3000watt sub with a 3000watt amp.
also ive been told i should use a 1 farad cap, but i was also told i should go with 3 farad, 1 farad for every 1000watts...so i wanted to know about that as well. i was planning on buying a 1.5 farad yesterday but i wanted to be sure first.
also..am i going to need to change my head unit with this setup....or can i run my stock 00gsr head unit without any problems..some audio installer guy said i should be able to n my stock deck but i decided to check here with the honda experts
also ive been told i should use a 1 farad cap, but i was also told i should go with 3 farad, 1 farad for every 1000watts...so i wanted to know about that as well. i was planning on buying a 1.5 farad yesterday but i wanted to be sure first.
also..am i going to need to change my head unit with this setup....or can i run my stock 00gsr head unit without any problems..some audio installer guy said i should be able to n my stock deck but i decided to check here with the honda experts
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will be running one 3000watt sub with a 3000watt amp</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some audio installer guy said i should be able to n my stock deck </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL... Don't know why, but put together, those two comments struck me as funny...
Anywhoo... Although I highly doubt that the amp is a true 3000 watts, you're probably going to want to run something a little thicker than 4 gauge for power and ground... Probably 8ga for speaker wires would be adequate...
As far as caps go, you're going to hear both sides of the argument on this, (for and against), but the general rule of thumb (for the people that are for Caps) is 1F for each 1000 watts... So your calculation of one 1.5F cap would be incorrect. You'd need two.
You can (although I'm not sure why you'd want to) run off your stock deck, but there will be no way of tuning (other than controls on the amp and bass/treble on the deck)...
Put in a deck with a sub out etc....
And can I ask what brand equipment you're running with 3000 watt ratings???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some audio installer guy said i should be able to n my stock deck </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL... Don't know why, but put together, those two comments struck me as funny...
Anywhoo... Although I highly doubt that the amp is a true 3000 watts, you're probably going to want to run something a little thicker than 4 gauge for power and ground... Probably 8ga for speaker wires would be adequate...
As far as caps go, you're going to hear both sides of the argument on this, (for and against), but the general rule of thumb (for the people that are for Caps) is 1F for each 1000 watts... So your calculation of one 1.5F cap would be incorrect. You'd need two.
You can (although I'm not sure why you'd want to) run off your stock deck, but there will be no way of tuning (other than controls on the amp and bass/treble on the deck)...
Put in a deck with a sub out etc....
And can I ask what brand equipment you're running with 3000 watt ratings???
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I hope you know that you are going to have to replace your alternator if indeed this is a true 3000 watt system. your stock factory one is not going to be able to put out enough amps to run your system.
Get a deck before you waste money on a supposed 3K watt amp. DO YOU REALIZE HOW LOUD 3000 WATTS IS?!?!?!?! Forget thinking about wiring , you need to worry about dynamat. You really need to explain brand and what not before asking a question like this. If you say it's a Jensen 3K watt amp , buy a deck first!!! If it's an Audison 3K watt amp , buy Lexus first!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, make and model of amp and sub/s?
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
Beat me to it.
Please post this info.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>Beat me to it.
Please post this info.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Jacksonville, FL, United States
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">:rolls eyes:
Looks like someone needs to read up on the difference between peak power and rms power...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Peak: The maximum amplitude of a voltage or current.
RMS (root-mean-square): The square root of the mean of the sum of the squares. Commonly used as the effective value of measuring a sine wave's electrical power. A standard in amplifier measurements.
Looks like someone needs to read up on the difference between peak power and rms power...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Peak: The maximum amplitude of a voltage or current.
RMS (root-mean-square): The square root of the mean of the sum of the squares. Commonly used as the effective value of measuring a sine wave's electrical power. A standard in amplifier measurements.
LOL!! Good google searching!! 
Now, do some research about the two components you've chosen, and you'll see that both are extremely exaggerated in their power ratings (both output and handling). Then, see if you've still got a 3,000 watt system going into your car.
As far as the amp goes, since Power Acoustik is not a participant in CEA-2006 (as far as I know), they're pretty much free to write whatever they want on the spec sheet... Since they (and most other manufacturers) test their amps under some pretty unattainable conditions, you will most likely never acheive the wattage they say in your car, especially running a stock deck... They test that amp at 14.4 volts of extremely clean power, fed with extremely clean signal (which you're not going to get off a stock deck)...
With that said, you're not going to have a true 3000 watt system here... That amp will put out less than it's rated RMS power, so you don't need to go crazy with expensive power wire (0 ga)...

Now, do some research about the two components you've chosen, and you'll see that both are extremely exaggerated in their power ratings (both output and handling). Then, see if you've still got a 3,000 watt system going into your car.
As far as the amp goes, since Power Acoustik is not a participant in CEA-2006 (as far as I know), they're pretty much free to write whatever they want on the spec sheet... Since they (and most other manufacturers) test their amps under some pretty unattainable conditions, you will most likely never acheive the wattage they say in your car, especially running a stock deck... They test that amp at 14.4 volts of extremely clean power, fed with extremely clean signal (which you're not going to get off a stock deck)...
With that said, you're not going to have a true 3000 watt system here... That amp will put out less than it's rated RMS power, so you don't need to go crazy with expensive power wire (0 ga)...
Yea, no matter how hard I looked at their site http://www.poweracoustik.com/classD.html
I can't find a spec sheet of any kind for their amps, and although there is a fair amount of good info at Tech Support http://www.poweracoustik.com/SUPPORT/index.html nothing on amp specs, and kind of "sketchy" on sub power handling.
PnoyJeff what size are the fuses in the amp?
94
I can't find a spec sheet of any kind for their amps, and although there is a fair amount of good info at Tech Support http://www.poweracoustik.com/SUPPORT/index.html nothing on amp specs, and kind of "sketchy" on sub power handling.
PnoyJeff what size are the fuses in the amp?
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PnoyJeff what size are the fuses in the amp?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was gonna ask that too...
Was gonna ask that too...
http://audioforum.termpro.com/...11204
Heres a good thread about the Power Acoustik 3000.
Doesnt put out anything close to 3000watts,still a decent amp.
Heres a good thread about the Power Acoustik 3000.
Doesnt put out anything close to 3000watts,still a decent amp.
Thread Starter
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From: Jacksonville, FL, United States
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PnoyJeff what size are the fuses in the amp?
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh yeh..i forgot u asked that in my other thread.. my internet hasnt been working(gay router)
i will post it for sure after work
PnoyJeff what size are the fuses in the amp?
94</TD></TR></TABLE>oh yeh..i forgot u asked that in my other thread.. my internet hasnt been working(gay router)
i will post it for sure after work
Subwoofer is an Audiobahn 10'' Immortal Series sub (AWIS10P)
^^^^^^ Not too bad of a sub
Amp is a Power Acoustik A3000DB
^^^^^Put it back on E-bay.
^^^^^^ Not too bad of a sub
Amp is a Power Acoustik A3000DB
^^^^^Put it back on E-bay.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnoyJeff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok...so i looked at my amp...i do not know what size my fuses are...tomorrow ill take a picture of it n show u..</TD></TR></TABLE>
IT SAYS IT RIGHT ON THE TOP OF THE FUSE!!!
Just step away from the car audio thing.
IT SAYS IT RIGHT ON THE TOP OF THE FUSE!!!
Just step away from the car audio thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IT SAYS IT RIGHT ON THE TOP OF THE FUSE!!!
Just step away from the car audio thing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Holy crap that was funny.... Seriously... Good advice right there...
Just step away from the car audio thing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Holy crap that was funny.... Seriously... Good advice right there...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnoyJeff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i cant read....without my contacts...i broke one of them so i cant see the small print on the side</TD></TR></TABLE> What color are they?
94
94
Thread Starter
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From: Jacksonville, FL, United States
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What color are they?
94 </TD></TR></TABLE>
the color of my contacts? the fuses? or the font?
94 </TD></TR></TABLE>the color of my contacts? the fuses? or the font?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnoyJeff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the color of my contacts? the fuses? or the font?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hooolllllyyyyy Craaaaappppppppppp
Hooolllllyyyyy Craaaaappppppppppp
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnoyJeff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the color of my contacts? the fuses? or the font?</TD></TR></TABLE> Your not making this easy are you, If I have the color of the fuse I can tell what amperage they are as they are color coded, and unless you are one hot looking woman under 50, that would be interested in an old fart like me, I couldn't give a **** what color your contacts are, and font, what font?
94
the color of my contacts? the fuses? or the font?</TD></TR></TABLE> Your not making this easy are you, If I have the color of the fuse I can tell what amperage they are as they are color coded, and unless you are one hot looking woman under 50, that would be interested in an old fart like me, I couldn't give a **** what color your contacts are, and font, what font?
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the color of my contacts? the fuses? or the font? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Jeezus tap dancing christ... WTF...
Jeezus tap dancing christ... WTF...



