What Speakers?
im looking to put new speakers in my car and hook them up to my 4 channel amp. im looking for a speaker with a good amount of bass because the cars going to be stripped and i dont want a sub box and subs. whats a speaker that will have a good quality sound and a nice amount of bass for just speakers ampd up?
What is your budget and how much power are you pushing?
Most of the time, the amount of bass a speaker has has more to do with the enclosure than the driver. Unless you plan on doing some sealing and deadening, you'll either have very little bass or bass with alot of resonance. My suggestion: if you really want bass, add a slim 10" sub in a box with a decent set of coaxials up front (Inf. reference is decent, Boston acoustic makes some good ones) or custom mount in some component speakers if you're feeling up to it. Wouldn't be hard to surface mount tweeters pretty much anywhere in a stripped car. Then run the amp with two channels bridged to the sub and the other two going to front stage.
Most of the time, the amount of bass a speaker has has more to do with the enclosure than the driver. Unless you plan on doing some sealing and deadening, you'll either have very little bass or bass with alot of resonance. My suggestion: if you really want bass, add a slim 10" sub in a box with a decent set of coaxials up front (Inf. reference is decent, Boston acoustic makes some good ones) or custom mount in some component speakers if you're feeling up to it. Wouldn't be hard to surface mount tweeters pretty much anywhere in a stripped car. Then run the amp with two channels bridged to the sub and the other two going to front stage.
What is your budget and how much power are you pushing?
Most of the time, the amount of bass a speaker has has more to do with the enclosure than the driver. Unless you plan on doing some sealing and deadening, you'll either have very little bass or bass with alot of resonance. My suggestion: if you really want bass, add a slim 10" sub in a box with a decent set of coaxials up front (Inf. reference is decent, Boston acoustic makes some good ones) or custom mount in some component speakers if you're feeling up to it. Wouldn't be hard to surface mount tweeters pretty much anywhere in a stripped car. Then run the amp with two channels bridged to the sub and the other two going to front stage.
Most of the time, the amount of bass a speaker has has more to do with the enclosure than the driver. Unless you plan on doing some sealing and deadening, you'll either have very little bass or bass with alot of resonance. My suggestion: if you really want bass, add a slim 10" sub in a box with a decent set of coaxials up front (Inf. reference is decent, Boston acoustic makes some good ones) or custom mount in some component speakers if you're feeling up to it. Wouldn't be hard to surface mount tweeters pretty much anywhere in a stripped car. Then run the amp with two channels bridged to the sub and the other two going to front stage.
6x9 boxes would be considerably better than trying to run the stock spots. There is no baffle between the front and rear so you would have wave cancellation and it would sound like garbage. But even then, they won't hit like a real woofer. I'd still stick with rear woofer front comps/coaxs if you can. The problem also with the front speakers in no baffle. You'll have high end but little low end from the front.
That amp is capable of 320w bridged at 4ohm. That is enough power to drive a smaller 10 or 12 inch sub pretty well.
Consider:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=60
That for a sub.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/EF-120%2...parameters.pdf
That's the spec sheet. Would work fine in a 1 cubic foot or smaller box. Handles 300rms so you have headroom with your amp.
For fronts:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=4
Or
http://www.amazon.com/Ctx65cs-Dynami...0963478&sr=8-1
Both capable sets. Infinity kappa comps are pretty decent for the money as well. Or:
http://www.amazon.com/Morel-Maximo-i.../ref=pd_cp_e_1
Morel maximos are great bang for buck and have from what I've heard a great build quality. Go well with your 90ws from the amp as well.
That amp is capable of 320w bridged at 4ohm. That is enough power to drive a smaller 10 or 12 inch sub pretty well.
Consider:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=60
That for a sub.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/EF-120%2...parameters.pdf
That's the spec sheet. Would work fine in a 1 cubic foot or smaller box. Handles 300rms so you have headroom with your amp.
For fronts:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=4
Or
http://www.amazon.com/Ctx65cs-Dynami...0963478&sr=8-1
Both capable sets. Infinity kappa comps are pretty decent for the money as well. Or:
http://www.amazon.com/Morel-Maximo-i.../ref=pd_cp_e_1
Morel maximos are great bang for buck and have from what I've heard a great build quality. Go well with your 90ws from the amp as well.
6x9 boxes would be considerably better than trying to run the stock spots. There is no baffle between the front and rear so you would have wave cancellation and it would sound like garbage. But even then, they won't hit like a real woofer. I'd still stick with rear woofer front comps/coaxs if you can. The problem also with the front speakers in no baffle. You'll have high end but little low end from the front.
That amp is capable of 320w bridged at 4ohm. That is enough power to drive a smaller 10 or 12 inch sub pretty well.
Consider:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=60
That for a sub.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/EF-120%2...parameters.pdf
That's the spec sheet. Would work fine in a 1 cubic foot or smaller box. Handles 300rms so you have headroom with your amp.
For fronts:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=4
Or
http://www.amazon.com/Ctx65cs-Dynami...0963478&sr=8-1
Both capable sets. Infinity kappa comps are pretty decent for the money as well. Or:
http://www.amazon.com/Morel-Maximo-i.../ref=pd_cp_e_1
Morel maximos are great bang for buck and have from what I've heard a great build quality. Go well with your 90ws from the amp as well.
That amp is capable of 320w bridged at 4ohm. That is enough power to drive a smaller 10 or 12 inch sub pretty well.
Consider:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=60
That for a sub.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/EF-120%2...parameters.pdf
That's the spec sheet. Would work fine in a 1 cubic foot or smaller box. Handles 300rms so you have headroom with your amp.
For fronts:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=4
Or
http://www.amazon.com/Ctx65cs-Dynami...0963478&sr=8-1
Both capable sets. Infinity kappa comps are pretty decent for the money as well. Or:
http://www.amazon.com/Morel-Maximo-i.../ref=pd_cp_e_1
Morel maximos are great bang for buck and have from what I've heard a great build quality. Go well with your 90ws from the amp as well.
That's what I would do. Is sealing off the doors a possibility? It would increase midbase and make a nicer system overall.
As for tweeter placement: Explore. You can pretty much mount them whereever if you strip. I would aim towards the windshield or towards your ears about head level.
As for tweeter placement: Explore. You can pretty much mount them whereever if you strip. I would aim towards the windshield or towards your ears about head level.
[QUOTE=joeshmo;46332434]6x9 boxes would be considerably better than trying to run the stock spots. There is no baffle between the front and rear so you would have wave cancellation and it would sound like garbage. But even then, they won't hit like a real woofer. I'd still stick with rear woofer front comps/coaxs if you can. The problem also with the front speakers in no baffle. You'll have high end but little low end from the front.
That amp is capable of 320w bridged at 4ohm. That is enough power to drive a smaller 10 or 12 inch sub pretty well.
Consider:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=60
Hmm...
So, at 120hz, he'll probably be 10db down in output. So much for bass, lol.
If u want "bass", get a sub.
There's no way around it. There's only so much air a 6.5 can pump out. It's even worse when it's not even a dedicated midbass.
Seal up the doors as much as you can and use that whole 300 toward your fronts.
What car is this going into? An ib config could work and be the lightest possible option since you'll be boxless.
That amp is capable of 320w bridged at 4ohm. That is enough power to drive a smaller 10 or 12 inch sub pretty well.
Consider:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=60
Hmm...
6.5” mid-woofer power handling: 150 Watt (120Hz high pass)
If u want "bass", get a sub.
There's no way around it. There's only so much air a 6.5 can pump out. It's even worse when it's not even a dedicated midbass.
Seal up the doors as much as you can and use that whole 300 toward your fronts.
What car is this going into? An ib config could work and be the lightest possible option since you'll be boxless.
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[QUOTE=edzy;46339553]
Uh, what? You realize that CDT I linked to is a 12" sub right? I wasn't suggesting that he try to make his 6.5"s act as real woofers. I even posted a link to the specs.
6x9 boxes would be considerably better than trying to run the stock spots. There is no baffle between the front and rear so you would have wave cancellation and it would sound like garbage. But even then, they won't hit like a real woofer. I'd still stick with rear woofer front comps/coaxs if you can. The problem also with the front speakers in no baffle. You'll have high end but little low end from the front.
That amp is capable of 320w bridged at 4ohm. That is enough power to drive a smaller 10 or 12 inch sub pretty well.
Consider:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=60
Hmm...
So, at 120hz, he'll probably be 10db down in output. So much for bass, lol.
If u want "bass", get a sub.
There's no way around it. There's only so much air a 6.5 can pump out. It's even worse when it's not even a dedicated midbass.
Seal up the doors as much as you can and use that whole 300 toward your fronts.
What car is this going into? An ib config could work and be the lightest possible option since you'll be boxless.
That amp is capable of 320w bridged at 4ohm. That is enough power to drive a smaller 10 or 12 inch sub pretty well.
Consider:
http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=60
Hmm...
So, at 120hz, he'll probably be 10db down in output. So much for bass, lol.
If u want "bass", get a sub.
There's no way around it. There's only so much air a 6.5 can pump out. It's even worse when it's not even a dedicated midbass.
Seal up the doors as much as you can and use that whole 300 toward your fronts.
What car is this going into? An ib config could work and be the lightest possible option since you'll be boxless.
[QUOTE=joeshmo;46341633]
When i clicked, it showed some mids
now i see a sub.
Im not saying you said it, that was directed toward the OP.
6.5's and "bass" is not gonna happen.
now i see a sub.
Im not saying you said it, that was directed toward the OP.
6.5's and "bass" is not gonna happen.
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