Like the title says, I'm new to all of this and I was hoping someone on here would help me out a lil. I'm going to purchase one 15" MB quart subwoofer, but I'm not sure how many watts the amp would have to be to power this beast. In anyone could help me out at all, that would be great!
Also I would like the best bang for the buck, I don't wanna spend a whole lot on the amp. thanks in advance guys!! BTW heres the link to the sub itself:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-e...we352

 

It is an 800watt rms sub, so you will need an amp that will make at least 800watts rms into a 4 ohm load, or one the will make 800watts into a 1 ohm load, [sub can be wired for 1 or 4 ohms] How much do you want to spend? an 800watt rms amp will not be cheap 94

 

well i would like to spend as little as possible but at the same time for it to power the sub with no problems, and be a good sub overall, so maybe not the cheapest one, something thats like the best bang for the buck.

Thanks for the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is an 800watt rms sub, so you will need an amp that will make at least 800watts rms</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please keep your misinformation to yourself.
RMS is the maximum consistant power a speaker will handle.
As long as you have around 75% of rms power you will be ok.
I would suggest a JL 500/1 as it makes full rms power between 4 & 1.5ohms
Also while you can wire the sub 1 or 4 ohm I suggest keeping it at 4ohm as with all amps dampening factor drops as the ohm loads drops.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NC-B17A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please keep your misinformation to yourself.
RMS is the maximum consistant power a speaker will handle.
As long as you have around 75% of rms power you will be ok.
I would suggest a JL 500/1 as it makes full rms power between 4 & 1.5ohms
Also while you can wire the sub 1 or 4 ohm I suggest keeping it at 4ohm as with all amps dampening factor drops as the ohm loads drops.</TD></TR></TABLE>

misinformation? boy you better watch who you talk to about stuff like that FCM is one of the most noted around here. and 10RMS or 800 wouldn't matter as long as it wasn't played loud at all (and by that I mean extremely quietly)... but he wanted a amp to match his sub or he wouldnt have asked. and matching RMS is the best thing you can do... the guy obviously wants to push it if he got that sub. Matching SHOULD help prevent the dastardly clipping effect. For those who are not paranoid about how hard they push their sub...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NC-B17A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As long as you have around 75% of rms power you will be ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>Misinformation me? I guess over 30 years in car audio install and all those training seminars by manufacturers and reps and MECP and all the Mobile Dynamics mean squat, and maybe the rule about watts. "it's better to be overpowered then underpowered" is wrong, and it was all the instructors that were giving me misinformation 94

 

Well the moble dynamics means squat to me.
But my 15yrs of intalling ,Iasca & Usac SQ judging, mecp cert, Richard Clark & Fishman siminars & yada yada tell me that 75% of the time you match rms power & a "bass head" you end up with blown subs due to over excursion.
So as a rule of thumb 75% of power will work best for daily opperation.
This chart from JL is alittle more detailed http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/RP_Chart.html
But hey what do I know I have never been with winners at finals & don't know any world spl record holders.
Now to end the big stick contest.
There are different rules for the gen puplic & the enthuiast
fcm you know what i'm talking about

Also blue2k1civic asked about a "cost efective" amp an 800 watt rms amp will be around a grand & the human ear will not hear much diff from 500 to 800 on the driver inquestion.


CooBlueDAB watch who you call boy junior.


Modified by NC-B17A at 6:11 PM 7/7/2005

 

Well maybe mobile dynamics isn't that bad but I have hired a guy from MD & alot was left to be desired but the guy I hired from Installer Institute was worse.
As far as install nothing replaces experence.
Wouldn't you agree fcm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NC-B17A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RMS is the maximum consistant power a speaker will handle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So why not utilize the speaker to its full potential and get an amp that can drive it?
seems like a waste to me. i'd pick a 1000/1 over a 500/1 any day of the week for that sub.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As long as you have around 75% of rms power you will be ok.
I would suggest a JL 500/1 as it makes full rms power between 4 & 1.5ohms
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lets do some math.
SUB = 800W RMS
75% or that would be 600W &lt;-- your recommendation of at least 75% RMSpower

AS per JL's specs on the 500/1
Rated Power:
500 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm
(11V-14.5V)

hmmm... if memory serves me correctly 500 &lt; 600 which is under your recommend power output yet from the amp you recommend. if you're gonna make a stupid statement, should stick to it yourself

wow i feel wierd agreeing with FCM on something :

 

this is what i would recomend.

hifonics amp 750watts @ 1ohm if you are going to port your box
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...13126

Hifonics amp 1000watts @ 1ohm if you are going sealed
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...13120

if you need help on wiring go here
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com...d.asp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NC-B17A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Also blue2k1civic asked about a "cost efective" amp an 800 watt rms amp will be around a grand & the human ear will not hear much diff from 500 to 800 on the driver inquestion.


CooBlueDAB watch who you call boy junior.


Modified by NC-B17A at 6:11 PM 7/7/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats funny. You can buy a decent amp for about 300 bucks to power that sub. HiFonics is one brand to look @.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow i feel wierd agreeing with FCM on something : </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not as weird as I feel with you agreeing with me, LOL, I think this has only happened once or twice before 94

 

While I still stand by my statement. I guess I should not have said "misinformation" so sorry.
I have angered the almighty audio god (fcm) & his minions.
If you put 1000 RMS on a $100.00 woofer it is going to blow.
I will take my leave in peace.

 

Well EBP_SI it seems I am the "almighty audio god" and you are one of my "minions" Brahahahahhahahahaha 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NC-B17A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">While I still stand by my statement. I guess I should not have said "misinformation" so sorry.
I have angered the almighty audio god (fcm) & his minions.
If you put 1000 RMS on a $100.00 woofer it is going to blow.
I will take my leave in peace.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Think about it. It is better to overpower a sub then to underpower it. You will find way more subs blown from underpowering then overpowering. As for your statement on the 1000 RMS.

If it is a clean 1000 RMS on a cheap sub it will not necesarrily blow. I have seem a Diamond Audio D7402. Specs (RMS Output Power: 400 Watts x 2 @ 4 Ohm Stereo, 800 Watts x 2 @ 2 Ohm Stereo, 1600 Watts x 1 Bridged @ 4 Ohms Frequency Response: 3-50,000 Hz Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 102dB THD: 0.02% Channel Separation: 80dB)

Running 2 coustics BP1244 (retail on these subs is about $100, wired in 4 ohm getting 1600 Watts to the pair) Those subs pounded hard all day long. No Signs of blowing the hell out of them. Sure if you were an idiot we could have cooked the subs, but knowing the limits it is easy not to.

And before you ask why, these subs were on this amp, the had his 2 Diamond Audio TDX 10's stolen from his car and he was using his gf subs until he could get his new ones in because they had to be ordered.

 

ok here is the thing with the 1000 watt amp if he is not going to upgrade his electrical system like alternator and the big 3 he will not be pushing 1000 watts more like 800watts. to get the amp to run at optimum level he has to get a 150 amp alternator and do the big 3 to be running at 1000watts @ 14.4v. if he can't achieve 14.4volts which he will not (because im not) he won't be running at 1000watts.

im currently running 1000w @2ohms and i blew my amp like a week ago and i was running 12.4v at the loudest level and 13.4v at normal listening level and i have a 170 amp alt. waiting to be put in and soon a new hifonics amp can't wait!!!