Subwoofer Fuse
Pioneer Headunit
900W RF Amp (400 continuous)
2 12" RF HE2 Subs
1.0 Farad Stinger Capacitor
4 gauge wire
That's the setup, this is modified off of the Fuse question (we ended up with a 100A fuse)
We got everything hooked up and working (what we think is properly haha) but the subs seem underpowered so here's my questions regarding that.
The Amp I believe is meant for one sub (just a single connection for + / -) and when I got them they were split in a Y for both, so each sub was receiving (I guess) half of the original power.
On top of that, the amp is mono while the subs are dualvoice or dual cone ? something along those lines, the subs have a total of 8 prongs which connect to 4 total leads (2 on top , 2 on bottom) and right now we just have the top half connected which is the only way we could get them to work.
Anyone have any suggestions? Is the reason they're sounding weak because of the amp?
Capacitor is working, amp is working, subs are definitely working (pushing quite a bit of air) but we think they've still got more in them.
Modified by TheMuffinMan at 8:19 AM 5/22/2007
Modified by TheMuffinMan at 8:33 PM 5/22/2007
900W RF Amp (400 continuous)
2 12" RF HE2 Subs
1.0 Farad Stinger Capacitor
4 gauge wire
That's the setup, this is modified off of the Fuse question (we ended up with a 100A fuse)
We got everything hooked up and working (what we think is properly haha) but the subs seem underpowered so here's my questions regarding that.
The Amp I believe is meant for one sub (just a single connection for + / -) and when I got them they were split in a Y for both, so each sub was receiving (I guess) half of the original power.
On top of that, the amp is mono while the subs are dualvoice or dual cone ? something along those lines, the subs have a total of 8 prongs which connect to 4 total leads (2 on top , 2 on bottom) and right now we just have the top half connected which is the only way we could get them to work.
Anyone have any suggestions? Is the reason they're sounding weak because of the amp?
Capacitor is working, amp is working, subs are definitely working (pushing quite a bit of air) but we think they've still got more in them.
Modified by TheMuffinMan at 8:19 AM 5/22/2007
Modified by TheMuffinMan at 8:33 PM 5/22/2007
You determine fuse size based on the size & length of the wire.
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
Thats a maximum rating for the wire.
I run what I need up to the max rating for the wire.
Meaning if you only pull 60 amps an 80-100amp fuse/circuit breaker will work fine.
Check the fuse rating on the amp your running. Whats it's rating? You dont need much more then that. Obviously you want it higher then the fuse in your amp though.
I run what I need up to the max rating for the wire.
Meaning if you only pull 60 amps an 80-100amp fuse/circuit breaker will work fine.
Check the fuse rating on the amp your running. Whats it's rating? You dont need much more then that. Obviously you want it higher then the fuse in your amp though.
hey nsx thanks for replying
I spoke with some guys at Audio Express/One and Circuit City, we ended up getting a 100A fuse (should do fine) and a light bulb to charge the cap (apparently it's some ghetto trick haha)
Not sure on the amp, I'll need to check it
I spoke with some guys at Audio Express/One and Circuit City, we ended up getting a 100A fuse (should do fine) and a light bulb to charge the cap (apparently it's some ghetto trick haha)
Not sure on the amp, I'll need to check it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any help?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Regarding?
Regarding?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check out the bolded stuff in the first post B18 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ohhh... So you're one of those "edit my original post instead of replying at the bottom" type of guys...
lol
Anyways... The combination of dual voice coil subs and mono amps will work, but is entirely dependent on how those subs are wired up...
Get us that model number of the amp and we'll point you in the right direction...

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ohhh... So you're one of those "edit my original post instead of replying at the bottom" type of guys...
lolAnyways... The combination of dual voice coil subs and mono amps will work, but is entirely dependent on how those subs are wired up...
Get us that model number of the amp and we'll point you in the right direction...

lol , yeah i'm one of those guys
I'll be grabbing the model number when i get off work at 5 and i'll post it up
also forgot to mention it's a sub enclosure meant for the plexi on the front of it, I've purchased lexan (hardcore stuff) for the front but haven't installed it, will that help the sound out?
I'll be grabbing the model number when i get off work at 5 and i'll post it up
also forgot to mention it's a sub enclosure meant for the plexi on the front of it, I've purchased lexan (hardcore stuff) for the front but haven't installed it, will that help the sound out?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also forgot to mention it's a sub enclosure meant for the plexi on the front of it, I've purchased lexan (hardcore stuff) for the front but haven't installed it, will that help the sound out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely is going to make a difference (for the better) when you put the front on...
Definitely is going to make a difference (for the better) when you put the front on...
Wow yeah, we put a piece of lexan (far too small) on the front of it that I cut for it and it just rattles too much but if we hold it down the subs probably hit three times as hard, we're looking at setting dynomat around the sides to seal it up and get thicker plexi.
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