Any ideas on how to secure the subwoofer box against theft? Please include parts list / pics if available.

 

L brackets work good and are cheap... But if you wanna get sneaky, remove your subs from the box, screw through the bottom of the box through the floor, and then put your subs back in. Stealth mount.

 

L brackets aren't stong enough. Bolt the box to the frame and use the biggest washers you can find. Hopefully it'll save the box from crushing you if you get in an accident also.

 

They aren't strong enough? I beg to differ... I used four 1/2" wide brackets on the box holding two 12's in my Civic, and they held the box down for 5 years, and lasted through a bunch of times at the track, countless other races, and they survived the time I hit black ice and slammed into a a guardrail at 60mph.

When I pulled the system out this past fall, the brackets and screws were just as tight as the day I put them in.

As long as you use an aggressive threaded wood screw to secure the brackets, you'll be fine. Coarse thread = good, fine thread = screws pulling out.

 

The way we do it in my shop is, we glue a 1x2 strip of MDF to the floorpan, behind the seat, it starts out as a 2x2, but we beltsand all the groves and dips in the floorpan into the MDF, so we get more contact, we use Lapages ultragrip 4000 sub floor adheasive, [ once it sets up, about 24hr, the MDF is part of the car] NO SCREWS through the floorpan of the car, [and that is a good thing] then we install a piano hinge along the bottom of the box and screw it into the MDF.
Added advantage if you have a hatch you could flip the box forward. 94

 

hrm, that got me thinking, perhaps a sweet sub setup for a gutted hatch would be like that hinge idea... normally the subs are in the rear facing rear, up, forward... whatever... then they could be flipped forward to protect the cones, and the box could become a new floor board that fits almost flush with where the rear seat bottom used to be... then the amps which I assume would be there, would be covered in plexiglass or whatever, where the subs were sitting, and thus making it a flat surface and flush whent he subs are in the forward position...

It is late, but ... heck, someone else think about it and let me know if it might have promise...

 

This should be good enough.

 

LOL! Yeah! That'll work!

 

I have a crazy idea...

Integrate an enclosure with a strut tower bar going through it. The bar would reinforce the box as well as making it very stable. You'd just have to figure out how to lock it down at the strut tower mounting bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PupaScoopa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a crazy idea...

Integrate an enclosure with a strut tower bar going through it. The bar would reinforce the box as well as making it very stable. You'd just have to figure out how to lock it down at the strut tower mounting bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that would do it. it would be kinda hard to especially with a sealed box keeping the box air tight, but not impossible

 

Actually, the strut-bar idea wouldn't be that bad... I would think a hole saw and 3 cuts would be all you'd need to make. One hole on each side of the box, and one in the divider. Then, you'd need to get a piece of PVC pipe and insert that through the holes through the box. Then, seal around the pipe with caulk and put the bar through. Then, put the box/bar assembly in the trunk, then attach to your strut towers...

I'd assume you'd need to have like three inch pipe, or big enough to move the bar around (and up and down) to adjust it to get the ends on, etc...


Just a thought.... :shrugs:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, the strut-bar idea wouldn't be that bad... I would think a hole saw and 3 cuts would be all you'd need to make. One hole on each side of the box, and one in the divider. Then, you'd need to get a piece of PVC pipe and insert that through the holes through the box. Then, seal around the pipe with caulk and put the bar through. Then, put the box/bar assembly in the trunk, then attach to your strut towers...

I'd assume you'd need to have like three inch pipe, or big enough to move the bar around (and up and down) to adjust it to get the ends on, etc...


Just a thought.... :shrugs:</TD></TR></TABLE>Be kind of a hell of a time to get to the spare tire. 94

 

L brackets. Easiest way.

 

I secured mine with some capacitor brackets to the strut bar. It works fine, infact the screws pulled out of the box and nothing happened to the metal bracket. You can get some metal strips from home depot, cut them, put an arc in them and bolt the box with that.

 

A Good security alarm