I recently bought a JL audio powerwedge 10 inch sub/box combo. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=321

I wanted to know how to mount a sub box into my truck. How does one keep a sub box from rolling around in the truck? I have 92-95 civic hb. I do not want to drill screws into the new box. So I heard people use industrial strength metal straps? anyone use these straps? or where to get them? If anyone has any ideas how to mount the box without drilling, I am up for any ideas. Anyone got any pics of there sub box mounted or held down by some device?

Thank you in advance for any help.

 

If you have a rear strut bar you could possibly lasso the box to the bar or use a L bracket and screw it to the floor of the truck but get smaller screws when attaching the L bracket to the box so screw doesn't go all the way through but holds the box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheBob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a rear strut bar you could possibly lasso the box to the bar or use a L bracket and screw it to the floor of the truck but get smaller screws when attaching the L bracket to the box so screw doesn't go all the way through but holds the box.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for your input, I don't have a strut bar though. I really don't want to drill into the box though. Anyone else have some input on this?

 

ghetto rig...

remove carpeting from behind back seat...

see the rusty metal? it has some "holes" that you can "loop" something around..

like a bungee cord, with a hook.

another option is to rebuild the floor of the trunk, and "integrate" the sub box into that design.

 

I've actually been looking into solving the same problem in my 99 EX. I do have the strut bar though. I plan to put some eyelet hooks in the side of the box, and hook short bungees into those, then into the holes in my strut bar, that way if I need in the trunk for anything (spare tire etc) I can move it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bart2546 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've actually been looking into solving the same problem in my 99 EX. I do have the strut bar though. I plan to put some eyelet hooks in the side of the box, and hook short bungees into those, then into the holes in my strut bar, that way if I need in the trunk for anything (spare tire etc) I can move it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting, what is an eyelet hooks? does that involve drilling into the box?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ghetto rig...

remove carpeting from behind back seat...

see the rusty metal? it has some "holes" that you can "loop" something around..

like a bungee cord, with a hook.

another option is to rebuild the floor of the trunk, and "integrate" the sub box into that design.</TD></TR></TABLE>

have you tried the bungee cord thing yet? any success? I may try that

 

no, but i got it from a picture of a ghetto rigged in car computer...

the poster posted a picture of a micro atx case, and 12v powered ATX power supply circuitry, secured to the car by a few bungee cords.

a micro atx case, with board, hard drives, and an optical drive.. is actually quite heavy...
especially if the case is made out of steel...

so if bungee cords can hold a computer in place.. for sure it can hold a subwoofer... in a box..

==========

not really ghetto rigged.. just done sloppily... if i did it, i would hide the power supply, and wiring as much as i could... and also choose an even smaller case... the case he chose was pretty big... and was placed in the most awkward of places...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, but i got it from a picture of a ghetto rigged in car computer...

the poster posted a picture of a micro atx case, and 12v powered ATX power supply circuitry, secured to the car by a few bungee cords.

a micro atx case, with board, hard drives, and an optical drive.. is actually quite heavy...
especially if the case is made out of steel...

so if bungee cords can hold a computer in place.. for sure it can hold a subwoofer... in a box..

==========

not really ghetto rigged.. just done sloppily... if i did it, i would hide the power supply, and wiring as much as i could... and also choose an even smaller case... the case he chose was pretty big... and was placed in the most awkward of places...</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for you input, I was thinking about big metal industrial straps that tighten with screw driver or ratchet. Have you seen these used? I heard of people using metal tie downs or straps.

 

I've used a simple ratcheting strap before, but it doesn't look great and didnt realy hold it down well either. Just put a few holes in your box and screw it down with a couple of "L" brackets. It will make it look cleaner, and just that much harder to steal. Holes in the box won't hurt a thing if you fill them when you remove the screws with some silicone from the inside.

 

What's going to happen to your box if you make a couple holes? Is it made out of gold and precious diamonds? Buy a couple "L" brackets at Home Depot and be done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Odessa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's going to happen to your box if you make a couple holes? Is it made out of gold and precious diamonds? Buy a couple "L" brackets at Home Depot and be done.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am only going to use the box for a while, looking for the resell value. Plus I paid extra for the box because its JL audio. Not your regular cheap box. Well I guess L brackets is the way to go. What part of the chassis does the L bracket screw into? I have a cardboard trunk piece that goes over the spare tire. Is the corners where I am suppost to use the L brackets at? I have no idea please let me know.

Thanks again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am only going to use the box for a while, looking for the resell value. Plus I paid extra for the box because its JL audio. Not your regular cheap box. Well I guess L brackets is the way to go. What part of the chassis does the L bracket screw into? I have a cardboard trunk piece that goes over the spare tire. Is the corners where I am suppost to use the L brackets at? I have no idea please let me know.

Thanks again</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just cover it up with some carpet fiber. They won't be that visible anyway. And remember not to screw through MDF.

On my box I used 2 "L" brackets on the rear end of the box, having them spread apart on both ends. I screwed them down directly to that cheap cardboard trunk piece, which wasn't very good, but worked "ok" since the sub+box weren't too heavy, but heavy enough to loosen up the screws in the cardboard after some time. Moreover, your box will bounce every time your car goes over a rough road and hit the spare, creating annoying noise. Better would be to replace that cardboard with a piece made entirely out of MDF. Or if you don't want to do this, then at least use 2 small blocks for each "L" bracket. Put 1 block of MDF on top of the cardboard, and the 2nd block directly underneath it (under the cardboard), and screw them together, and that will greatly reinforce your mounting area. Then just the same attach your box with "L" brackets to that reinforced area.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Odessa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just cover it up with some carpet fiber. They won't be that visible anyway. And remember not to screw through MDF.

On my box I used 2 "L" brackets on the rear end of the box, having them spread apart on both ends. I screwed them down directly to that cheap cardboard trunk piece, which wasn't very good, but worked "ok" since the sub+box weren't too heavy, but heavy enough to loosen up the screws in the cardboard after some time. Moreover, your box will bounce every time your car goes over a rough road and hit the spare, creating annoying noise. Better would be to replace that cardboard with a piece made entirely out of MDF. Or if you don't want to do this, then at least use 2 small blocks for each "L" bracket. Put 1 block of MDF on top of the cardboard, and the 2nd block directly underneath it (under the cardboard), and screw them together, and that will greatly reinforce your mounting area. Then just the same attach your box with "L" brackets to that reinforced area.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Odesa you stated not screw through MDF? So if my box is made out of MDF don't screw into it? I am little confused. Thanks alot for posting all this information helped me out greaty

 

Screw into MDF, but don't go too deep into it. Make sure the screw doesn't come out on the inside of the box. If the MDF is 3/4 wide, then use 1/2 long screw (or a bit longer if it's too short after you take into the account the width of the "L" bracket). Don't make a "see-through" hole. Is this more clear?

 

Thanks bro, understood.

 

i dont really care bout screwing my box in..is that all i need to do is screw it in with regular screws?

 

I have a powered sub in my 92 hatch. I ran a nylon strap thru one of the cut outs just below the tail gate and out the bottom of the plastic trim. I put the strap around the sub and tighten it securely. I take the sub out very often for track events and it has worked very well for over a dozen years.

 

In a H/B a piano hinge is the best way to go, it will allow you to flip the box forwards for easy access to spare or if you need more room in the hatch for something.
Another advantage is because the piano hinge would run the full width of box more screws can be used so no need to use anything longer the 5/8" screws, [no holes through box.
Also if a "strap" of wood is glued, [sub floor adhesive ] down behind the rear seat, between the wheel wells and under the carpet, [about 1" of the press-board spare tire well cover will have to be cut] the piano hinge can be screwed to it, [no screw holes in the cars floor pan] it is a solid mount, and convenient. 94

 

Guys whats wrong with velcro, or velcro straps, no drilling no fuss lol. Stops mine from rolling about.

 

If you are securing a speaker box of some kilos in your car do ensure that it is restrained very well. These can become missiles in an accident and have maimed & killed. Dont rely on the ocky strap or elastersied strap. or just simply text screws.
Place a metal plate between the opposite side of the car body and where the subwoofer sits and use multiple corse grain timber screws. (note if you put silicon glue between the metal plate and the body this will seal against moisture and rust)

If you dont want to drills holes in the body - remove carpet and pannels to see what body bolts are available or child harness restraint points thne make up suitable l plate or angle brackets and bolt to the speaker.

you just need to be creative sometimes

The rule of thumb is if i feel confident that cant push the car(while in neutral) along a flat surface by placing the hands on the speaker box. then it is sensiblty secured.

Note this warning is particulary pertanent to cars with fold down seats or Coupes


Modified by Jollybandit at 7:38 PM 1/3/2007