Need some more advice
Here's my latest purchase to help keep my car secure: Hornet 740T alarm, DEI 506T Glass Breakage sensor, DEI 507M Digital Tilt Sensor, and DEI 520T Backup Battery. I bought all this on eBay for $138. I plan on doing a stealth install also. I am just asking for some tips or anymore advice on what I should add to my alarm setup to make it better. Also, I would like to know of a good place to install the horn. Feel free to pm me advice(tips, hiding spots, etc...) you do not want public.
it only serves to slow the thief down while they are searching for ignition wires / alarm brain. You can get them for around 4 bucks apiece. Any alarm and sensor is only a deterrent, it is the best thing you can do aside from adding a lojack system to your vehicle.
dude...considering hornets have a built in shock sensor its gonna be such a pain to add in all those extra sensors. Youre gonna have to use the door/trunk pin wires and diode isolate EVERYTHING. Good luck homey youre gonna need it.
I would get another alarm that has an external shock sensor harness to wire into...or go pay a local shop a GRIP of cash to install what you got.
I would get another alarm that has an external shock sensor harness to wire into...or go pay a local shop a GRIP of cash to install what you got.
eh, a few packs of diodes will run him about 5 bucks. It's not THAT big of a deal, just time consuming. If he bench preps the alarm and puts the diodes inline at that time it won't be that bad.
Good thing his car is an easy install, will be a good car to learn on
Good thing his car is an easy install, will be a good car to learn on

i have no clue what you are talking about. it listed in the install manual of the hornet that all these were options for the kit. i figured a simple install as long as i followed instructions. On page 16
http://www.directeddealers.com...4.pdf
Modified by CivicSi95 at 4:41 PM 8/11/2008
http://www.directeddealers.com...4.pdf
Modified by CivicSi95 at 4:41 PM 8/11/2008
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You CAN use those add-ons with the alarm, that doesn't mean they are going to be plug and play necessarily.
What sucks about the alarm is that you have to mount the brain to something that is going to pick up shock vibrations from the vehicle when hit. It is much easier to stash the brain and mount an external shock sensor to something though.
Other alarms have expansion ports that provide power, ground, and 1 to 2 forms of negative trigger inputs for adding on external sensors. This alarm doesn't really have room for expansion, although as stated before you CAN add these functions by diode isolating the trunk, hood and door triggers.
What sucks about the alarm is that you have to mount the brain to something that is going to pick up shock vibrations from the vehicle when hit. It is much easier to stash the brain and mount an external shock sensor to something though.
Other alarms have expansion ports that provide power, ground, and 1 to 2 forms of negative trigger inputs for adding on external sensors. This alarm doesn't really have room for expansion, although as stated before you CAN add these functions by diode isolating the trunk, hood and door triggers.
You should not have any problem adding the tilt and audio sensor, both are "single" zone sensors, [one trigger wire] install a diode on the trigger leads and connect them and the hood pin to the hood pin input, a diode is not needed on the hood pin trigger lead itself, you will need to install a diode on the backup batt. trigger lead also, and connect it to the hood-pin input lead, you will have 4 trigger leads connected to the alarms hood/trunk trigger, [blue H1/6] all but the hood pin need a diode.
If you are connecting the trunk/hatch trigger it becomes a bit of an issue as it has a load, [trunk/hatch light], I would connect it to the door trigger input, [green H1/5] and install diodes to isolate the doors and trunk/hatch, or opening the door will turn on the trunk/hatch light and opening the trunk/hatch will turn on the dome light and both door and trunk/hatch ajar warning lights will come one if trunk/hatch or door is opened.
I would be inclined to move up a few models and get an alarm that has both a hood-pin and trunk/hatch input and at least one "extra" sensor input, that way the hood and trunk/hatch are separate zones and the extra sensors and backup batt. con all be connected to the extra sensor input.
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If you are connecting the trunk/hatch trigger it becomes a bit of an issue as it has a load, [trunk/hatch light], I would connect it to the door trigger input, [green H1/5] and install diodes to isolate the doors and trunk/hatch, or opening the door will turn on the trunk/hatch light and opening the trunk/hatch will turn on the dome light and both door and trunk/hatch ajar warning lights will come one if trunk/hatch or door is opened.
I would be inclined to move up a few models and get an alarm that has both a hood-pin and trunk/hatch input and at least one "extra" sensor input, that way the hood and trunk/hatch are separate zones and the extra sensors and backup batt. con all be connected to the extra sensor input.
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As mentioned, you do not need to upgrade, an alarm with separate hood and trunk/hatch inputs and at least one "extra sensor" input will make the job easier and more straight forward.
If you like the DEI brand, [Hornet is only one of them] have a look at another Hornet or one of the other DEI alarms... http://www.directed.com/Produc....aspx
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If you like the DEI brand, [Hornet is only one of them] have a look at another Hornet or one of the other DEI alarms... http://www.directed.com/Produc....aspx
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should not have any problem adding the tilt and audio sensor, both are "single" zone sensors, [one trigger wire] install a diode on the trigger leads and connect them and the hood pin to the hood pin input, a diode is not needed on the hood pin trigger lead itself, you will need to install a diode on the backup batt. trigger lead also, and connect it to the hood-pin input lead, you will have 4 trigger leads connected to the alarms hood/trunk trigger, [blue H1/6] all but the hood pin need a diode.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you saying that i will need to hard wire in the audio sensor, tilt sensor and backup battery to the (blue H1)wire? and put diodes on the individual sensor's wire before the connection to the (blue H1) wire?
Modified by CivicSi95 at 7:49 PM 8/16/2008
</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you saying that i will need to hard wire in the audio sensor, tilt sensor and backup battery to the (blue H1)wire? and put diodes on the individual sensor's wire before the connection to the (blue H1) wire?
Modified by CivicSi95 at 7:49 PM 8/16/2008
yes thats what we're saying. It'll be a pain to do as well because you have to mount those sensors in specific spots (audio sensor aimed into the cabin)(tilt sensor in MIDDLE of vehicle) etc etc...so you can't pre-wire super effectively.
Also, each one will need 4 wires: power, ground, armed input, and trigger out. You'll also have to diode all of the trigger outs as previously mentioned (with the diode pointing the right direction) to your trunk or door pin wires.
As FCM also mentioned it would be a good idea to try and utilize the + trigger (purple) wire for the doors (by using dome light +) and using the two extra - triggers (green and blue for doors and trunk) for your doors, hood, trunk, and extra sensors.
If you got a nicer alarm you'd have a dedicated door trigger, trunk, and hood pin wires, with an extra out for all the auxillary triggering devices...which isn't that big a deal...but if you have little experience installing alarams...it'd be a lot easier, and you'd have a better alarm in general..
Post questions as they come up were here to help.
Also, each one will need 4 wires: power, ground, armed input, and trigger out. You'll also have to diode all of the trigger outs as previously mentioned (with the diode pointing the right direction) to your trunk or door pin wires.
As FCM also mentioned it would be a good idea to try and utilize the + trigger (purple) wire for the doors (by using dome light +) and using the two extra - triggers (green and blue for doors and trunk) for your doors, hood, trunk, and extra sensors.
If you got a nicer alarm you'd have a dedicated door trigger, trunk, and hood pin wires, with an extra out for all the auxillary triggering devices...which isn't that big a deal...but if you have little experience installing alarams...it'd be a lot easier, and you'd have a better alarm in general..
Post questions as they come up were here to help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by salomon16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As FCM also mentioned it would be a good idea to try and utilize the + trigger (purple) wire for the doors (by using dome light +) </TD></TR></TABLE> What, when did I suggest that?
Connecting the pos.(+) door trigger, [purple] to the dome lights pos.(+) would not work, alarm would indicate door open all the time as dome light pos.(+) is a constant 12V+.
94
BTW, only the backup batt. has 4 leads, and it does not need a GWA input.
Modified by fcm at 7:59 AM 8/17/2008
Connecting the pos.(+) door trigger, [purple] to the dome lights pos.(+) would not work, alarm would indicate door open all the time as dome light pos.(+) is a constant 12V+.
94BTW, only the backup batt. has 4 leads, and it does not need a GWA input.
Modified by fcm at 7:59 AM 8/17/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSi95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
are you saying that i will need to hard wire in the audio sensor, tilt sensor and backup battery to the (blue H1)wire? and put diodes on the individual sensor's wire before the connection to the (blue H1) wire?
Modified by CivicSi95 at 7:49 PM 8/16/2008</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes, and diodes on the sensors trigger output leads.
94
are you saying that i will need to hard wire in the audio sensor, tilt sensor and backup battery to the (blue H1)wire? and put diodes on the individual sensor's wire before the connection to the (blue H1) wire?
Modified by CivicSi95 at 7:49 PM 8/16/2008</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes, and diodes on the sensors trigger output leads.
94
so i need to put 1 diode on the ((blue H1) wire coming out of the alarm? i am still really confused here as to what i am supposed to do? what alarm would make this a plug n play?
Modified by CivicSi95 at 8:50 AM 8/17/2008
Modified by CivicSi95 at 8:50 AM 8/17/2008
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Or you can buy a harness that plugs into the two extra sensor ports and don't have to wire up anything. Only thing the tilt sensor would still need to go to the ground while arm wire to turn it on or it will stay on for ever and burn out.
what alarm would make this a plug n play? I NEED THIS TO BE AS EASY AS POSSIBLE. im a complete [freak]ing idiot when it comes to this and i dont understand anything you all are saying. its probably easy for everyone else to understand that have installed alarms before but i have never even owned an alarm, much less installed one. IF I PAID FOR SHIPPING BOTH WAYS, HOW MUCH WOULD SOMEONE CHARGE ME TO WIRE THIS UP?
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
hey, don't be so hard on yourself. Its not that badm do you see the two black ports on the side of the alarm brain?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey, don't be so hard on yourself. Its not that badm do you see the two black ports on the side of the alarm brain?</TD></TR></TABLE> This is a Hornet 740T and unless they have changed something... http://www.directeddealers.com...4.pdf the impact sensor in internal and there is not "extra sensor" input.
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