Whats up Community,

I have had this issue for about a month or so now, At first I figured it was a routine / minor issue, I swapped the Main Relay out of the 91 CRX that I own, The car ran for about a day or 2, and then I came back upon the same issue i was having prior, inwhich I was unable to start my car, So the first thing that came to mind, Was check my grounds, I've checked every ground To my knowledge especially the one near the hood latch.

Grounds = Checked

Then I went checked all my fuses, Even if they did not relate to the issue, figured while I was under the dash to check them all. Every fuse has a non corroded contact point, and appeared to be fine.

Fuses = Checked

Tested the Fuel pump its self to ensure connection is good, Crossed Sending wire (yellow / black ) with power wires (black / yellow) Fuel pump kicks on no problem. So its clearly not my fuel pump.

I started messing with the relay, checked all the solders for a dry joint or sign of overheating and a cracked solder. No signs of any evidence of a bad solder, so i started checking for shorts in the wires,



As you see above, I've started de pinning the plug in order to closer find the short, All the while I've taken alot of precaution to ensure i do not bump anything together, The Green And black (2) wires that is in the 8th position seems to be where the short is, BUT To test if it was a short, Just today i clipped the pin off, re wired / pinned the wires, and plugged it up, Still no dice, So the connection is good now, so thats out of the picture.

The relay I currently have is only 2 days old, So its 100% out of the picture that its my issue. I always hear the first click, But the 2nd gate is not creating the finished connection



What is really confusing me... is how when i am able to jiggle the wire and sometimes enable my relay.... but fresh connections has not helped at all. I am at all loss been researching and working on it for some time, Something tells me its something entirely too simple and i am over looking it, but i cannot put my finger on it.


Thanks for any and all help in advance.

 

Wiggle what wire to get it to work? 94

 

"The Green And black (2) wires that is in the 8th position seems to be where the short is"



^^^

But It's indeed the connection on that 8th pin, ended up getting the relay to turn over about 10 times in a row flawlessly, so im going to run a whole new wire from the relay to the ECU and tape it onto the main harness for cleanliness.



thread closed.

 

Try this, hold the terminal and pull on the lead, see if the wire insulation "stretches" right where the terminal crimps to the lead.

If wiggling it there has an effect then the problem must be there also, you should not have tu run a new lead all the way from the ECU/ECM.94

 

Use your multimeter to confirm, if the signal exists on the multimeter then it's the relay.
Pin 8 should be ground connect your DMM to a constant +12 and measure pin 8. It should be ground while starting and cranking. If you see +12 volt on your DMM then its your relay. The purpose of this relay is to allow a way for the ECU to shut off the fuel pump and motor in the event of an accident.

What happens over time is the solder joint cracks. Its a hairline crack sometimes very hard to see. This causes an intermittent problem with the relay and is usually worse during the summer months or when you turn you heat on. Heat causes metal to expand which causes the joint to expand which causes you to pull out your hair while trying to fix the problem.

Even though you inspected the solder joint open it up an resolder it anyway. Like I said the cracks are hairline cracks sometimes very hard to see with the eye.

 

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html 94