Looking for a alarm
I have done some research and I think I will got with Clifford Matrix. It gets good reviews, and cust. reports. I was talking with some rep. at car toys and he said that the min difference in the different models is the extra stuff that the alarm(not secure it is) is the same between the models. (Extras like Tile sensor, paging, the key whether it is LCD or not.) I was wondering if any one knows from experience. I drive a 94 coup. .
Okay, I'm not sure how you will respond to my post, but here's some advice/suggestions.
If you are using an alarm for theft deterrant, then it will be useless. Most people who deal with Hondas everyday like us probably already know how to bypass pretty much any alarm. I would only get something similar to use as a remote keyless entry system, but not as an alarm.
If you can find a cheap alarm for less than $150-200, then go for it, but anything more than that, and I feel you're wasting your money. They all have the same thing (i.e.: shock sensor, starter kill, etc). All the beeps/sirens/voices/pagers/window controls/etc are useless and are a waste of money.
You should instead, layer your security with other things such as multiple kill switches, club/autolock, etc. This can be expanded upon by removeable wheels, personal basemaps that when not used won't even let the car idle, etc.
Again, all of this is negated when a tow truck is used, but an alarm won't help you there either. Bottom line, if it's cheap and has the basic functions, get it. If it's more than $150-200, skip it, find something cheaper, or just go with the deterrents I listed.
If you are using an alarm for theft deterrant, then it will be useless. Most people who deal with Hondas everyday like us probably already know how to bypass pretty much any alarm. I would only get something similar to use as a remote keyless entry system, but not as an alarm.
If you can find a cheap alarm for less than $150-200, then go for it, but anything more than that, and I feel you're wasting your money. They all have the same thing (i.e.: shock sensor, starter kill, etc). All the beeps/sirens/voices/pagers/window controls/etc are useless and are a waste of money.
You should instead, layer your security with other things such as multiple kill switches, club/autolock, etc. This can be expanded upon by removeable wheels, personal basemaps that when not used won't even let the car idle, etc.
Again, all of this is negated when a tow truck is used, but an alarm won't help you there either. Bottom line, if it's cheap and has the basic functions, get it. If it's more than $150-200, skip it, find something cheaper, or just go with the deterrents I listed.
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Many many threads cover this topic.
It comes down to personal preference as well.. A lot like compustar...A lot like DEI products (viper etc..)
Oh, and by the way......
It comes down to personal preference as well.. A lot like compustar...A lot like DEI products (viper etc..)
Oh, and by the way......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You should instead, layer your security with other things such as multiple kill switches, club/autolock, etc. This can be expanded upon by removeable wheels, personal basemaps that when not used won't even let the car idle, etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
These are going to be better than any alarm. Kill switches are things YOU make, and YOU hide. Alarms (installed by shops) are more than likely all installed in the same fashion. Kill switches are going to be you're best bet.
You should instead, layer your security with other things such as multiple kill switches, club/autolock, etc. This can be expanded upon by removeable wheels, personal basemaps that when not used won't even let the car idle, etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
These are going to be better than any alarm. Kill switches are things YOU make, and YOU hide. Alarms (installed by shops) are more than likely all installed in the same fashion. Kill switches are going to be you're best bet.
i would also recommend a secondary siren with it's own independent battery. that way when they cut power, the secondary siren will still be going off usually for at least a few minutes. enough to deter them. find the loudest one you can find.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-EJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These are going to be better than any alarm. Kill switches are things YOU make, and YOU hide. Alarms (installed by shops) are more than likely all installed in the same fashion. Kill switches are going to be you're best bet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with you on this one, for the most part. Kill switches are excellent if you use some imagination during the install - you can do a LOT with these for theft deterrent. But any sort of kill switch isn't going to stop a theif from towing your car to work on it somewhere else...
... Alarms are even better IN ADDITION to your custom kill switches - ESPECIALLY if you install it yourself. I've found a few really good how-to writeups on custom alarm installs which have given me excellent ideas for my own alarm setup. If your have your loudass alarm blaring while a thief is trying to bust into your car, they are going to be much less determined to get passed all of your deterrent switches and devices. I've also always liked the idea of having a secondary siren inside the cabin, this can be extremely painful to anyone who's inside the car....
I agree with you on this one, for the most part. Kill switches are excellent if you use some imagination during the install - you can do a LOT with these for theft deterrent. But any sort of kill switch isn't going to stop a theif from towing your car to work on it somewhere else...
... Alarms are even better IN ADDITION to your custom kill switches - ESPECIALLY if you install it yourself. I've found a few really good how-to writeups on custom alarm installs which have given me excellent ideas for my own alarm setup. If your have your loudass alarm blaring while a thief is trying to bust into your car, they are going to be much less determined to get passed all of your deterrent switches and devices. I've also always liked the idea of having a secondary siren inside the cabin, this can be extremely painful to anyone who's inside the car....
Well if you have 2 way paging alarm and you keep your keys near you you will know if someone is trying to steal your ride. I think a thief would rather deal with a bunch of kill switches rather than deal with me when i catch him trying to steal my ****. An alarm is only as good as the installer who installed it. If you take the time you can install an alarm in a manner in which the thief wont even know where to start looking.
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I agree with some of the things mentioned and disagree with others.
I strongly disagree that spending more then $150-$200 on an alarm is somehow a waste of money, that's the same as saying spending more then that on a set of tires for your car is a waste of money, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.
You can spend $150-$200 on an alarm with all the bells and whistles, or spend the same on a very basic unit, although features add to the cost of an alarm, the quality of the alarm is far more important, IMO.
Also I agree with statements like "if they want it they will get it" however, you don't need to make it easy for them.
I also strongly agree that "layering" is the best way to slow them down, and if the layering is redundant and independent of each other, better yet.
I do not agree that locking your doors is any kind of deterrent to anyone but an honest person, unless maybe you have replaced the glass with bullet/shatter proof glass. Bust the glass triggers the alarm, open the door triggers the alarm, the result is the same, the crook is in the car and the alarm is triggered, the difference is, with the doors locked, you also end up with a busted window, [and I bet that is an out of pocket expense, because it's less then your deductible].
I strongly agree that backup batt. systems, [for the alarm and/or a backup batt siren] is a layer everyone should have, just to easy to bust the glass, pop the hood, cut the batt. ground, not that hard on a Honda/Acura to get at the batt. neg. (-) lead from under the car. The cars alarm can be disabled with little or no alarming at all.
Last but not least, the phrase "It's not so much the alarm as it is the install" comes to mind.
94
I strongly disagree that spending more then $150-$200 on an alarm is somehow a waste of money, that's the same as saying spending more then that on a set of tires for your car is a waste of money, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.
You can spend $150-$200 on an alarm with all the bells and whistles, or spend the same on a very basic unit, although features add to the cost of an alarm, the quality of the alarm is far more important, IMO.
Also I agree with statements like "if they want it they will get it" however, you don't need to make it easy for them.
I also strongly agree that "layering" is the best way to slow them down, and if the layering is redundant and independent of each other, better yet.
I do not agree that locking your doors is any kind of deterrent to anyone but an honest person, unless maybe you have replaced the glass with bullet/shatter proof glass. Bust the glass triggers the alarm, open the door triggers the alarm, the result is the same, the crook is in the car and the alarm is triggered, the difference is, with the doors locked, you also end up with a busted window, [and I bet that is an out of pocket expense, because it's less then your deductible].
I strongly agree that backup batt. systems, [for the alarm and/or a backup batt siren] is a layer everyone should have, just to easy to bust the glass, pop the hood, cut the batt. ground, not that hard on a Honda/Acura to get at the batt. neg. (-) lead from under the car. The cars alarm can be disabled with little or no alarming at all.
Last but not least, the phrase "It's not so much the alarm as it is the install" comes to mind.
94
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