ok heres my dillema i NEED baSS! yet cant stand the weight of even a .62 cubic ft box along with the small 11" cube of space it takes. my ride is gutted its a 92 civic 4dr so theres no seats for an infinite baffle to keep the front and rear waves apart.

so im thinking of something else that i've never seen anyone do before which is use the rear deck as the mounting surface and use a xtc foam baffle to seal the sub heres what they look like.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6...7XT10

heres the sub i was thinking of using.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App...p=111

now i would rather use the kappa perfect vq due to its variable Q which would work perfect for this situation but its too deep for these baffles. not to mention weighs in at a hefty 34lbs! thats almost the weight of an american racing 18" rim and tire! so these non perfect kappa series use a neodimium magnet and weigh less then half of the perfects. im aware theres more subs on the market but the thing is they're either to heavy, deep, or need a large ported box to sound descent and huge amp.

i know this wont knock pictures off the walls but i just want some added low end but i want it to be somewhat deep. i already pondered the idea of 2 6 1/2" subs but i just know for a fact that wont work. wtf to do? think this is my answer?

 

Actually smaller subs, [6.5"] will work, but why not just do a small sealed fiberglass spare tire well cabinet? 94

 

thanks for the response! but yeah i thought about a fiberglass box like the mtx thunderform or jl enclosures that are kinda hideaway. i liked the jl box but of coarse they dont make it for the 92-95 atleast i dont think they do.

so i might have a way of trying this little idea for cheap! ok i have an infinity reference 10" which i know isnt as good as the kappa's but it has a ripped tensil lead that i can fix so i'll mount this xtc baffle with this 10" on a board and set it in the car to see how it sounds before i go buying another sub and cutting a 10" hole in my rear deck. sound good?

 

The sub will not work without a cabinet, and an XTC cap is not a cabinet, also the baffle you mount the sub to must not move at all. 94

 

yeah you're right it prolly wont sound so good well anyone got any pics of their fiberglass or light weight enclosures? cuz this little 11"x11" cube is kinda old and boring its made of oak! need something more up to date and not so ghetto looking not that it doesnt hit cuz it does!

 

Try a couple of these 5.25" mini subs, in about .25 cuft a peice.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...4-831




Feed them a clean 50-60 watts each and I bet you will be suprised.

I put two in a friends standard cab tacoma and was impressed. as long as you are not worried about being heard from a mile away, these little boogers can produce clean low end to fill out a system.
Plus they weigh in at less than 2 lbs a piece.


Just a thought anyway. Good luck with what ever you end up doing.
Andy


:EDIT: They also have a 6.5" and 8" neosubs as well as a few other decent models.
A member on another board put 4 8's in 0.5 cuft a peice ported, tuned to about 40 hz I think. This was in a truck, but he said it lacked little to none in output.

 

Look into building an enclosure yourself. I'm building one for a 8" GTO JBL sub behind the spare wheel, take sup no boot space and doens't weigh much, the 8" has plenty boom.

 

put some good component speakers inside your front doors and rear panel, and then a amp in the back and then you won't need a tiny sub or such crap

like i builded in my car.. seems that you have the same car

 

^ ^ ^ DAAAAYYUM, Gina!

 

Nice install. But having a small sub and good componets weighs a whole lot less than that.

My 5 1/4 in front of my EG9.

 

but why you mounted the tweeter next to the mid-bass? putting the tweeter on the dashboard and pointing at your face, is much more effective then that solution.. plus if you cover your upholstry like this:

then you will have more deeper sound

plus your tweeter is exactly there, where the grille has ended

 

dayum!!!!!!! talk about some serious audiophiles up in here! thanks for all the reply's guys!

i've been thinking of using some bottom of the line mb quarts the ones that can be powered off a deck. a component set up for the front and coax's for the back for my highs since i dont wanna get too crazy with mulitple amps, wires etc... the deck i have is 54x4 i think and like 25x4rms which when i remembered back in the day an amp that size was perfect for highs. it also has a built in 7band eq with mp3! lol

now still thinking on what to do about a sub cuz i tried these 600 watt 6x9's in boxes in another car and powered them with an amp and they just dont cut it. they sound good but just dont hit hard enough on the really low end. im thinking a fiberglass box as suggested about 1 cubic ft with a really good 10" sub and a descent small class d amp since my battery will be relocated to the trunk i wont have to worry about heavy wires. i'll get pics up of what i've been working with

 

put a 6mm power wire for the headunit(with a fuse plus fuseholder) and ground, and some 1.5mm wires for speakers, you would be amazed also..
because if you run your headunit from the stock wiring harness, then the headunit won't get so much power to amplify your speakers.

if you do so, then write here or do your own topic of showing us some install progress

 

I wanted 100% stealth..............plus I didn't want to cut or modify anything.

 

tweeter with two sided tape on the dash is not anything complicated, but if you like the result, why not

 

actually he did it the right way! the tweeters are always supposed to be as close to the mid as possible for imaging thats why coaxils have such good response on the rta. but with the tweeters so down low its possible to drown them out with bass or your legs blocking them. i also mount my tweets up high aiming in the listening area but thats just in a car i know the real way to do it is as close as possible.

now about that thicker power wire for the headunit! would i need to pull the pin on the connector and install the new wire that way? or do i just hook the thicker wire up to the existing power wire? kinda a stupid question i guess but i'll post it!

 

Run the fused 12ga from the batt. to behind the HU, cut off as much lead off the HUs constant power, [no shorter then the speaker leads] and connect the 12ga to the HUs constant, do not cut out any fuses or line chokes on the HUs constant power lead.
Don't forget to add a 12ga ground from the chassis of the HU to the cars chassis, if you use a metal back brace from the HU to the stock rear support brace you will not need the 12ga ground.

 

ever think of a shallow mount? i know jl and re both have a slim line. mabey something to look into...

 

umm care to show me these jl slim lines? sounds really interesting and i have condidered slimlines for my truck not the civic since i do have a little space to work with.

does anyone have any expirience with kappa perfect vq's? cuz so far besides the newer cerwin vega stroker's this is what i think i might get since even the jl w7's have their flaws like an all foam surround on something that sits in a car and gets baked then beat on. this will be my summer cruiser by the way!

 

Mounted my sub, the box doens't weigh much and it's quick and easy to remove. A new trim plate will cover the spare and sub with a stealth grill.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sr20hardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm care to show me these jl slim lines? sounds really interesting</TD></TR></TABLE>... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=245 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OliverV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but why you mounted the tweeter next to the mid-bass? putting the tweeter on the dashboard and pointing at your face, is much more effective then that solution.. plus if you cover your upholstry like this:

then you will have more deeper sound

plus your tweeter is exactly there, where the grille has ended </TD></TR></TABLE>

Where do you get foam like that and does it really improve sound quality for door speakers

 

now that fiberglass box looks badazz! thats something i can deal with easy to remove and simple but does it hit?

and those jl's are also badazz but i bet they're expensive!!! i wonder what they sound like cuz their excursion rating doesnt look to be the greatest.

what about 1 15" in a small sealed fiberglass box like the one pictured above? think that'll sound good? the weight of 2 drivers and a huge amp is too much for my gutted ride. pretty much makes the gutted part pointless.

 

I installed some JL 6W0's in my rear deck. They supply a decent amount of bass and take up no space in the trunk. You could do something like that or get a set of good component speakers and live with the bass they produce. Back in the day I had a set of 6.5 Boston Pro's that put off some amazing bass.

 

I'll have to find the pics or take new ones, but I've got a polk momo 8 in a custom molded box that fits in the the spare tire. I wanted bass, but not some huge *** heavy box, and I think it works pretty well