hey guys i have some a pair of 12" L7s dual 2ohm and i have a Absolute EVD-6000 amp that does 2000w rms at 2ohms my bass hits hard but i just did an install on my friends crossfire with a dual 4ohm L7 12" with a 350w rms alpine amp and his hits pretty much as hard as my car does, now the question im asking is if i get a cap hooked up to my car would i be able to hit any harder then im hitting right now??

 

Is it wired correctly? The EVD is probably over-rated on it's actual power rms. It does not take much to make those subs move and when they do it will seem loud. "Hitting hard" is caused by a bunch of variables. Like box type, shape, position, car it's in. And many more. More importantly, "hitting hard" is not the same as spl or db's. If you really want to know whose stereo is louder then go have it measure by a car audio shop. But to answer your question-yes, a capacitor will help quite a bit for response, also known as subwoofer punch. You can get the rockford 1 farad at bestbuy for $100 or check out tsunami, I found some 10 farad for $100. gL

 

thanks man ill check it out........ i was thinkin of getting another amp instead of my EVD we already rechecked all of the wiring to the subs like 3 times last night so i know for sure it isnt the wiring. im going to get a cap for em and if that doesnt help ill just get a new amp, once again thanks

 

proper tuning will make a big difference too

 

is your amp good at 2 ohms?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is your amp good at 2 ohms? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i think its actually 1 ohm stable

 

ya it is 1ohm stable but i dont think that you can wire 2 dual 2ohm into 1ohm, doesnt it drop it down to 1/2ohm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicknt760 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya it is 1ohm stable but i dont think that you can wire 2 dual 2ohm into 1ohm, doesnt it drop it down to 1/2ohm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know how to wire 2 dual 2ohms to 2ohm; or 2 dual 4ohm to 1ohm. i dont think 2 dual 2ohm into 1 is possible

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patrick4588 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i know how to wire 2 dual 2ohms to 2ohm </TD></TR></TABLE>
how do you do that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicknt760 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how do you do that?</TD></TR></TABLE>



You can wire two 2 ohm DVC subs to run at either a 0.5 ohm, 2 ohm, or 8 ohm load.

 

The Absolute EVD-6000 is 1x1540W RMS into 4 ohms, 1x2000W RMS into 2 ohms and 1x2200W RMS into 1 ohm, it is not stable below 1 ohm.

Your Kicker S12L7s, [DVC 2 ohms] are 750W continuous, [RMS], even if the amp is "overrated", [2x2000W RMS into 2 ohms] wire the subs for a 2 ohm load, [re; post above].
You only need 1500W RMS to drive the subs properly, if the amp has more then 1500W RMS it's a good thing, "it's better to be overpowered then underpowered".

Yes a cap will help, you should have about 4 farads, [1 farad for every 500W RMS].
Ideally you would replace your alt. with a high output one, keeping in mind it takes more then 200A to make 2000W RMS, [depending on efficiency of amp].

Also keep in mind the sub cabinet and it's build quality will make a huge diff. in output and as mentioned "proper tuning will make a big difference ".


Without more info I can't think of anything else

What kind of cabinet?
How big, [internal gross volume]?
What kind of material was used and how thick?
Was the cabinet "braced' internally?
Is the cabinet solidly mounted in the car?

What gauge power and ground cable do you have?
Have the batt. to chassis and chassis to motor grounds been "beefed up"?
Where and how is the amp grounded?
How long is the amp ground cable? 94

 

To add onto what fcm has mentioned already, i'll throw in my personal .02 from actually running these subs before.

-Stick with a sealed box. A vented/ported box will have to be BIG to accomodate these subs.

-Each chamber should be around 1cu.ft in volume. Kicker recommends 0.88 cu.ft per sub minimum for a sealed application. I wouldn't build or buy one any much bigger than 1cu,ft per opening.

-Due to the bass these subs push, make sure your enclosure is made of 3/4" mdf, braced at the inner corners of the box. If available, fill the enclosure about a third of the way with poly-fil and then screw your sub down.

-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicknt760 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys i have some a pair of 12" L7s dual 2ohm and i have a Absolute EVD-6000 amp that does 2000w rms at 2ohms my bass hits hard but i just did an install on my friends crossfire with a dual 4ohm L7 12" with a 350w rms alpine amp and his hits pretty much as hard as my car does, now the question im asking is if i get a cap hooked up to my car would i be able to hit any harder then im hitting right now??</TD></TR></TABLE>

You know, it also depends on the design of the car. For instance, Hatchbacks will always hit harder than a sedan/coupe with a enclosed trunk.

 

oh dang i just noticed my previous post for some reason i was thinking that he was saying that you could wire the subs to 1ohm so thats why i was like uhhhhh...... anyway the box is a vented enclosure with 6.4cu. sq. ft, i havent really done any of the ground upgrades from the battery, how would i do that anyhow kind of new to hooking up "BIG" watt subs. and when i took my car in to get my original amp kit hooked up they had put the ground on the back rail behind the seats with like no joke 30 screws. im gonna relocate it this week for sure.

my amp kit is 0ga stinger expert series power and ground wire.
once again thanks to all of you helping me out i really do appreciate it.
oh ya the car its all going into is a 04 Accord sedan

 

a capacitor will not make your subs any louder then they already are. capacitors are just a way to prevent sudden strains on your cars electrical system. thats the only thing they do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Farrukh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a capacitor will not make your subs any louder then they already are. capacitors are just a way to prevent sudden strains on your cars electrical system. thats the only thing they do.</TD></TR></TABLE> WRONG in so many ways.
A cap will take the "strain" off the charging system during peak amp current draw.
A cap will make subs louder as it will supply the current needed by the amp during peak demand, although it may not be noticeable as it will be less then 3dB.
A cap will prevent the amp from clipping, [distorting] due to insufficient current during peak demand.
A cap stabilizes voltage at the amp.
A cap can filter "noise" from getting to the amp.
Your $.02 is not worth squat if you do not know what your talking about. 94

 

i got that fosgate cap for sale chap pm me.. by the way we have the same subs, but i took my sistem out i got tired of sound i also have a batcap 400.

 

i suggest you upgrade the big 3 in your power system....chances are that Absolut rated the amp at 14.4 volts.....wich you will never get out a Honda charging system.....most amps are not efficient and throw out less power than they are rated for when running on 12 volts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> WRONG in so many ways.
A cap will take the "strain" off the charging system during peak amp current draw.
A cap will make subs louder as it will supply the current needed by the amp during peak demand, although it may not be noticeable as it will be less then 3dB.
A cap will prevent the amp from clipping, [distorting] due to insufficient current during peak demand.
A cap stabilizes voltage at the amp.
A cap can filter "noise" from getting to the amp.
Your $.02 is not worth squat if you do not know what your talking about. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

a capacitor holds whatever volatge is available i dont understand why people think they add more voltage to a system....if the voltage isnt there the cap isnt going to produce it.....on the other hand the cap will just add more strain as your system will have to charge it again after the bass hits and delivers the holding power to the amp while also trying to run the rest of your car electronics


Again 2 Crossfire vr2000d running 4 12 inch RE xxx......no crap farad capacitor on my power system... hiting harder than most of the cars here on honda tech

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a capacitor holds whatever volatge is available i dont understand why people think they add more voltage to a system....if the voltage isnt there the cap isnt going to produce it.....on the other hand the cap will just add more strain as your system will have to charge it again after the bass hits and delivers the holding power to the amp while also trying to run the rest of your car electronics</TD></TR></TABLE> Your right the cap will not "hold" any more voltage then then supplied and I have yet to see a post that said so, I know I didn't, but then that's not what a cap is for, the cap is there to supply current to the amp during peak demand, and "recharging" the the cap, [it's actually been kept charged as it is not drain compleatly] is a lot easier on the cars charging system then the current draw of an amp at peak demand.

EG; your amps are what, 1x500W RMS into 4 ohms, 1x1000W RMS into 2 ohms.
Assuming you are running them at 2 ohms you have 2000W RMS and as it takes over 200A to produce 2000W which do you think will go first, your subs, because you are driving the amps into constant clipping because of a lack of current or the cars alt., because you are overloading it?
Or did you just forget to mention that you installed a 250A HO alt.? 94

 

1/0 wiring all around....my tahoe came with the optional 175 amp alternator....and im running an extra kinetic battery for each amp......the amp is rated at 2000rms@2 ohms at 12 volts so im able to get a clean consistent 14.4 volts to the amps even when the bass hits it drops no lower than 14.0 and we all know that most class D amps make more power at higher voltage so im assuming that im pushing a tad more than 2000rms

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1/0 wiring all around....my tahoe came with the optional 175 amp alternator....and im running an extra kinetic battery for each amp......the amp is rated at 2000rms@2 ohms at 12 volts so im able to get a clean consistent 14.4 volts to the amps even when the bass hits it drops no lower than 14.0 and we all know that most class D amps make more power at higher voltage so im assuming that im pushing a tad more than 2000rms</TD></TR></TABLE>So in your case you have the current needed to properly power your amps, and a cap(s) would not be needed. 94