so i have 2 12" infinity reference 1252w's, and i need to build a box for spec of the speaker. i was reading up and they need 1.25 cubic feet of air space per sub. what i need is someone to tell me the dimensions of the box. ive tried to figure out how to build it and all i get from people is "use packing peanuts" and i would if i knew how to use them lol. if someone can help me out with this and get it to where all i need to do is cut it to the dimensions you figured out. if someone can help me out i can paypal u a couple extra bucks for your time

 

Need way more information, starting with, what kind of "sub box" are you looking for, sealed or vented?

What kind of bass are you looking for, what kind of music do you listen to?
What is the box going into, MM&Y of car?
Does box need to be removable, [easily]?
What is the make and model of the amp your going to use to drive the subs?
How much experience do you have working with wood, [MDF]?
Do you have the tools to build a box?
Would you rather find an easy/cheap way, but still get good sub bass? 94

 

im looking for that pounding bass i listen to alot of hip hop and i want it sealed, i do want it removabe and its in a crx. i have a little experience, im sure i know enough to build a box lol and i have a lanzar 4000 watt peak amp im unsure of the model right off, its 2 channel

 

if u want pounding bass, go ported.

 

here is a good link. this site has TONS of information about stereos. most of us could benefit from looking at it.

http://www.carstereo.com/help/

 

My box in my CB7, It's 4.3 cubes tuned to 28hz. Go ported you'll love it.

 

You want to build it from scratch or the easy way?

If from scratch I need max width, [distance between shock towers] max height, [distance from floor pan to max height of box so security cover can go back on.

These are "fixed" distances, box can not be wider or higher, but depth can be adjusted to get proper cuft, WxH will get you square footage, WxHxD, [depth] will get you cubic footage.

A +/- of 10% on internal box volume on a sealed box will hardly be noticed, with that said you should try and get as close as possible to the 2.5cuft you need for the two subs, and at 600W continuous I would add bracing to the box I would seal the MDF, [MDF is very porous, even 1"] I would use 1" MDF for sides, bracing and baffle, the rest can be 3/4".

The more angles the box has the better for SQ, a cube is bad, a wedge is better, two wedges even better, of coarse the more angles the harder it is to build but well worth it if you can eliminate "standing waves" inside the box, parallel surfaces cause standing waves inside the box, standing waves cause cancellation which results in loss of output, [SPL].

So, max width and max height and how complex do you want to get? 94

 

The volume is 4.3 cubic feet. And both subs are in one chamber?

 

whats the easy way? i kinda want to build it myself so thats just one more thing i know i can do lol. if you guys think ported will give more bass ill go ported. and i already have a rough draft box in my car thats fit to the width and height it cam be. ill go get some measurements soon. i would rather it be a cube box because i mount my amp on the back of the box, because i have 2 fans built into the front part of the privacy cover for ventilation of the amps

 

i went and got some pics
the forementioned fans that i installed



the rigged up guinea pig box LOL

and the dimensions that i measured

 

Yup. It was a bitch to get in but I got it obviously.

 

personally id build sealed. any two 12" will get loud in the back of your car. sealed enclosures are easier to build, smaller (typically) than ported, and have more linear response. optimal design for a first timer....

 

Find a prebuilt box that is a little bigger, [internal volume] then you need, use up the extra volume by installing that amount of bracing and seal the box by "painting" the inside of the cabinet with a wood sealer, I use fiberglass resin, [2-3 coats].

EG; find a box that fits your car that is about 2.75cuft or so, install, [glue in place] .25cuft of bracing in the form of 1"x1"x2" blocks of wood along all the inside seams, a few inches apart, blocks will need modifying for mounting at angled seams, a single 1"x 2" brace between the back of box to baffle between speaker mounting holes will brace the baffle, paint inside of box with sealer to seal the MDF, run a bead of silicone along all inside seams, apply a layer of jute... http://www.julianos.com/carpetunderlay.html to at least the surface behind the subs and up to all inside surfaces except the baffle.

Your done, a good sub box with less then half the work. 94

 

i'm guessing you have them share space because you didnt have enough room to have 2 ports? thats a big box for your trunk. congrats on making it fit!

 

There is no easy way in car audio

also, do not buy a prefab box..

 

Why not, with the added bracing and sealing you end up with what you would build anyway. 94

 

ok well i do not want to go the pre fab way. i want to build this on my own

 

Building a sealed box is definitely easier than building a good ported box.
As said previously don't make it square.
I have the older model reference 1242w and I built a box for it. The box is a modified trapezoid. This design also gives it more strength. I shot asphalt sealer into the seams. It is powered with slightly over 300wrms and it definitely rumbles. It is a sealed box btw...