Back again, sorry (s2k!).
Okay, so, I am back again, the Del Sol is dead, so I picked up a 2006 s2000. Brilliant car, and as many complain, terrible sound system.
So here's what I am looking for with the s2k.....
I DO NOT want a sub. I've lived with the whole 12" sub and It was nice sure, but for the s2k I don't want to hassle with a sub. So, if any, what speakers have the best bass (6.5)? I've seen video's of the RE Audio 6.5 XXX (triple X) edition speakers, which show promising bass, but for 259.99 I can't really condone buying them (plus the near 4" depth). Then there is a video I saw of some JBL components for 249.99 and the guy had them blasted so loud he stepped like 30 feet back and these were still massively loud and produced bass (his sub was turned off, according to him, but its a video and people can lie....).
So far, I have my old Pioneer 3200ub from the "sol" transplanted to the "k". It has 2 outputs, 1 L/R Sub output and 1 L/R high output. Obviously, the sub output wont be needed. As far as door speakers, I also transplanted the coaxial kicker 6.5 set (which doesn't really fit depth wise, just like the sol, and sound terrible in the k vs. the sol). I am going to replace these because the K comes with components in the front, and tweets in the rear (in the roll hoops) so why use coaxial eh? The rear's I can live without, so no biggy there to be honest. I have my head unit turned to front only, and it sounds the same as with the rears on (weird) but w/e.
So, what speakers (component) would have good bass response? and If I have to amp them? I can.....
I've seen tons of threads on other boards, where people bitch "get a sub" and completely ignore the question at hand. I'm not looking to thump the car next to me, I just want the bottom end like stock, but louder! So please, if all your going to say is "get a subwoofer" don't even bother, cuz I'm not buying one (or using my old 12)
So here's what I am looking for with the s2k.....
I DO NOT want a sub. I've lived with the whole 12" sub and It was nice sure, but for the s2k I don't want to hassle with a sub. So, if any, what speakers have the best bass (6.5)? I've seen video's of the RE Audio 6.5 XXX (triple X) edition speakers, which show promising bass, but for 259.99 I can't really condone buying them (plus the near 4" depth). Then there is a video I saw of some JBL components for 249.99 and the guy had them blasted so loud he stepped like 30 feet back and these were still massively loud and produced bass (his sub was turned off, according to him, but its a video and people can lie....).
So far, I have my old Pioneer 3200ub from the "sol" transplanted to the "k". It has 2 outputs, 1 L/R Sub output and 1 L/R high output. Obviously, the sub output wont be needed. As far as door speakers, I also transplanted the coaxial kicker 6.5 set (which doesn't really fit depth wise, just like the sol, and sound terrible in the k vs. the sol). I am going to replace these because the K comes with components in the front, and tweets in the rear (in the roll hoops) so why use coaxial eh? The rear's I can live without, so no biggy there to be honest. I have my head unit turned to front only, and it sounds the same as with the rears on (weird) but w/e.
So, what speakers (component) would have good bass response? and If I have to amp them? I can.....
I've seen tons of threads on other boards, where people bitch "get a sub" and completely ignore the question at hand. I'm not looking to thump the car next to me, I just want the bottom end like stock, but louder! So please, if all your going to say is "get a subwoofer" don't even bother, cuz I'm not buying one (or using my old 12)
As far as bass from a 6.5" fullrange speaker, I don't know what would have the most bass output, as this is not a qualifier for me when I purchase speakers for my front sounstage because I run subwoofers. I can give advice though...
Look for frequency response. If you would like a speaker that can reproduce those low bass notes, you would be shopping for a speaker that has a frequency response that starts in the low range. Most full range speakers average prob around 65hz on the low end for musical reproduction, but if you could find one that reaches down into the 40hz range, you may get a cleaner bass output from the driver.
Deaden the doors... This task can be quite tedious, but well worth it. If you use high quality sound deadener, and basically turn your doors into an enclosure for your speaker, that air has a hard time leaking out of, you will prob get much better bass response. The downfall to this, is that, if done properly, you will add plenty of weight to your car, it takes a while to complete, and good sound deadening material can be quite expensive.
An amplifier never hurts in any set up. Since your car is a convertible, I do recomend a very strong front soundstage in both quality, and power.
Look for frequency response. If you would like a speaker that can reproduce those low bass notes, you would be shopping for a speaker that has a frequency response that starts in the low range. Most full range speakers average prob around 65hz on the low end for musical reproduction, but if you could find one that reaches down into the 40hz range, you may get a cleaner bass output from the driver.
Deaden the doors... This task can be quite tedious, but well worth it. If you use high quality sound deadener, and basically turn your doors into an enclosure for your speaker, that air has a hard time leaking out of, you will prob get much better bass response. The downfall to this, is that, if done properly, you will add plenty of weight to your car, it takes a while to complete, and good sound deadening material can be quite expensive.
An amplifier never hurts in any set up. Since your car is a convertible, I do recomend a very strong front soundstage in both quality, and power.
Like i've stated before on this forum, There's only so much air a 6.5 can pump out.
30-50hz in a door is gonna buzz like crazy regardless of how much deadening you have in there.
Joey is right, though..you will need a strong front stage in a convertible.
Looks like you're not willing to spend over 250..which will be hard.
I was thinking id xs 65 mids and some horns. But that cost $$$
30-50hz in a door is gonna buzz like crazy regardless of how much deadening you have in there.
Joey is right, though..you will need a strong front stage in a convertible.
Looks like you're not willing to spend over 250..which will be hard.
I was thinking id xs 65 mids and some horns. But that cost $$$
Oh wow,
that is an impressive looking midbass driver right there. In that clip they were shooting a 20hz test tone through it, and there wasn't ANY audible distortion at all, until they really started stretching out the suspension by delivering a ton of power. I wouldn't throw something like that in your door, and expect that 20hz tone to sound very emphatic, as edzy states, a cone area that small will have a hard time reproducing notes lower than around 60hz with muscial accuracy. But, thats the idea. To run a midbass like that, you would def need to run an active setup, but it sounds like you are limiting yourself to a smaller budget, and running active requires quite a bit more money than most 2 way passive component sets would normally run you. But edzy is def pointing you in the right direction. If you want deeper bass from a front stage setup, you'll def have to open your wallet a little more...
that is an impressive looking midbass driver right there. In that clip they were shooting a 20hz test tone through it, and there wasn't ANY audible distortion at all, until they really started stretching out the suspension by delivering a ton of power. I wouldn't throw something like that in your door, and expect that 20hz tone to sound very emphatic, as edzy states, a cone area that small will have a hard time reproducing notes lower than around 60hz with muscial accuracy. But, thats the idea. To run a midbass like that, you would def need to run an active setup, but it sounds like you are limiting yourself to a smaller budget, and running active requires quite a bit more money than most 2 way passive component sets would normally run you. But edzy is def pointing you in the right direction. If you want deeper bass from a front stage setup, you'll def have to open your wallet a little more...
This can work too
eclipse 3 way
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...se+SC8365.html
crescendo 1000c4
http://www.crescendoaudio.com/produc...roductid=17516
does 500 per bridged so a little over 160 per driver
eclipse 3 way
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...se+SC8365.html
crescendo 1000c4
http://www.crescendoaudio.com/produc...roductid=17516
does 500 per bridged so a little over 160 per driver
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Edzy, I'm not looking to spend 250 on 1 set of speakers..... that doesn't mean 250 on everything 
joeymc13, I had no clue what active meant until I looked it up. As far as I can understand, active means tossing out the crossover given when buying components and using an amp (or headunit) to effect frequency's given to each speaker?
I can do active, If I had a proper understanding (learning tyme? lol).
On that note, I was thinking about the JBL P660c (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...JBL_P660c.aspx), they go down all the way to 23hz (which as joeymc13 said, If I want better lows, get something that can drop lower). The setup is 2ohm (which means more rms from any amp) and has a huge sensitivity (94). Seems like a "go" to me
.
(http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...ar_MNX250.aspx) I think this should be a good enough amp no?
I've also heard a lot of good things about Cadence audio.... (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...ce_Xa1752.aspx) think this amp is good?
Thoughts?

joeymc13, I had no clue what active meant until I looked it up. As far as I can understand, active means tossing out the crossover given when buying components and using an amp (or headunit) to effect frequency's given to each speaker?
I can do active, If I had a proper understanding (learning tyme? lol).
On that note, I was thinking about the JBL P660c (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...JBL_P660c.aspx), they go down all the way to 23hz (which as joeymc13 said, If I want better lows, get something that can drop lower). The setup is 2ohm (which means more rms from any amp) and has a huge sensitivity (94). Seems like a "go" to me
.(http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...ar_MNX250.aspx) I think this should be a good enough amp no?

I've also heard a lot of good things about Cadence audio.... (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...ce_Xa1752.aspx) think this amp is good?
Thoughts?
They may get down to 23hz, but it won't be loud(like you need). You will severely cut down output when you ask a speaker like that to get down that low. The door will buzz like crazy, too.
For your special situation, a simple 2 way component set just won't cut it.
Active and gobs of power is what you need. Or, to keep things simple, the eclipse 3way and the crescendo amp.
This is what i recommend.
http://www.diycable.com/main/product...roducts_id=538
and
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/sho...number=275-130
Usually, i'd recommend this.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p5715/X65-...acell-cone.htm
and
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=294-608
For your special situation, a simple 2 way component set just won't cut it.
Active and gobs of power is what you need. Or, to keep things simple, the eclipse 3way and the crescendo amp.
This is what i recommend.
http://www.diycable.com/main/product...roducts_id=538
and
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/sho...number=275-130
Usually, i'd recommend this.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p5715/X65-...acell-cone.htm
and
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=294-608
so won't you need a crossover for that first setup!?
http://www.diycable.com/main/product...roducts_id=538
&
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/sho...number=275-130
http://www.diycable.com/main/product...roducts_id=538
&
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/sho...number=275-130
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