everything is done except for mounting the amps and vacuuming the back. oh and carpeting the support board and sides of the box.





Modified by patrick4588 at 11:30 PM 10/28/2008

 

Looks cool. That's a big *** rectangular box! Why facing forward? And why are the amps taking up space on the floor instead of on the sides of the box? Let us know what kind of db it will make.

 

one of the amps is for the speakers in the car and i just am not a fan of putting amps on the sub boxes... once its vacuumed out and cleaned i think it will look pretty good. im hoping it will make 150db on a termlab. that would be awesome

 

Flip the enclosure around. It will help on the db's. Also what subs model are those? they look like the 9500's. If so your going to need a lil more power. Good choice on speakers

 

they are the 8515's. how many more db's do you think flipping them around would net?

 

1-3 db, But really your going to need to step up the charging system to get you there. Your going to have to put out 1200rms to the subs. If it was me I would do the big three up grade asap, Run the sub amp on its own power wire. A second battery could not hurt. And deff a bigger alternator. You want to keep voltage drop to a min. Because that affects ur db score and power to your amp.

 

i have a 165amp alternator. and i have a 1/0 power wire going to the back. the amp does 1700rms @ 1ohm, so thats covered. doing the math, i think i remember the system needs 120-130amps, so the alternator is plenty big enough. i have 4ga going to the alternator and i redid all my grounds in 4ga along with my main ground off the - terminal 1/0ga. the whole car is done in kicker hyper flex including 12ga to all the speakers in the car. mtx compenents and mtx coaxials in the back. i work at circuit city as an installer, so i got the basics covered. always good to get advice from the more knowledgable though.

 

Looks silly to me to each his own.

 

you're the first person ive had tell me it looks silly. ive had someone tell me its stupid because it will weigh the car down; but its just like riding with a passenger.

 

Trust me, run your own power lead to the sub amp. At that power level the sub amp is going to pull power from your 4 channel amp. In turn it will make your front stage speakers sound muddy when the bass hitss

 

so have 2 power wires from the battery?

 

Yes.

 

if my alternator is putting out 165 amps though, shouldnt that be more than enough to cover the 120 the subs will pull?

 

The 165A that you're alternator is rated at isn't a constant value. It might only make half of that below 3k RPM and considerably less at idle.

 

you need to get a friend with a TL so you can try different setups and see what your sweet spot is, in my hatch i ran 3 setups for usaci, i had 2 10's in a ported box, full interior and loaded against the rear of hatch and then i could take that same box, load it into the rear driver side corner and i would gain db on the dash.
then i took out rear seat, put in 8 kicker comp 12's in a 14.3 cu ft box with only 800w rms total and i fired all of the up and the port back and it did a 145.5 on the tl with 800w rms divided among them, not bad for untuned port. then i did 1 premier spl5000 12 and port up at 57hrz and did a 144.7 so it all depends on the car, the hatch, the loading surface and etc etc, usually i would spend days playing with a mic until i got it where i wanted it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 165A that you're alternator is rated at isn't a constant value. It might only make half of that below 3k RPM and considerably less at idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is there a way i can test those values?

 

well you would need a clamp meter that can read amperage up to say 300amps or so. on my civic i had a loadboss 150a altnerator, it came with a birthsheet saying the rms or continous output at idle 1200 was about 75a

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patrick4588 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're the first person ive had tell me it looks silly. ive had someone tell me its stupid because it will weigh the car down; but its just like riding with a passenger.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It will weigh the car down. It looks silly because of how its installed. If you made something that actually looked like it belonged in the car it wouldn't be that bad. Removing the back seat to fit a poorly designed box seems silly to me. Why not remove the motor so you can stick more batteries in?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patrick4588 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is there a way i can test those values?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doesn't matter you will get a voltage drop across the wire no matter how strong the alternator is.

Is that hay in your back seat? lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will weigh the car down. It looks silly because of how its installed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The way it's installed it appears he's going for volume. So, the fact the install weighs twice as much as say 2 -10's is not a problem to him(he took out the back seats). And on the install, he did actually put in some work to make the plans. They're 15's, he didn't have tons of options. Could of designed it better of course, but you could say that about almost any subwoofer setup. The fact of the matter is that it looks like a sub box for an suv. Hope it all works out for ya man.

 

honestly the sub box is big, but thats the air space the subs require. i wanted it very loud, and to do it right, the box had to be built accordingly. i measured everything out, and the only place i could fit the box was where the backseats were. i removed the back seats and built that board that hugs the interior plastics damn near perfect. i dont know how you make it look like it belongs in the car more than i did unless you flush mount the subs and that wouldnt be enough air space. with the subs out, the "rear seat delete" looks great. why do you say the box is poorly designed? its mathematically perfect for those subs. btw the backseats were already removed; i hate driving ppl around. these are before the carpet was cut and stapled down.

 

and its not hay, its pine needles

 

the goal of building a box and loading the subs forward is generally to build a wall, he has close to a half wall i guess, which to a common persons idea may think that it will build more spl in that position, and yes as a sealed wall it will because you cut the cabin's air space in half, but might i just add for you to try facing the subs up at the roof. i have seen alot of people do what he has done but generally the reasoning behind it is because they have that entire area all the way back fiberglassed in, and they have floating amp racks, etc etc, basically for show, but thats good and great but if you want real spl building, yes you do need adequate air space--- depending per sub, power available and vehicle air space. Don't let anyone just say hey that is a dumb spot because until you try you won't know where that sweet spot is, now personally i think the whole weight issue is due to the fact that MOST of us are building for weight reduction/ and horsepower gains. but i had a hatch with a d15 that i used specifically for spl. i guess its all personal preference

 

well it was a fully built boosted gsr, so the extra weight didnt really hurt anything; still broke the tires loose in 3rd. if anything the extra weight will help with traction

 

new tires would help more than the extra weight, and your set up looks retarted.

 

what can i say, i have an obsession with bass and speed. its got traction bars, new tires, and omni coilovers. there is only so much you can do to hold 450whp to the ground. obviously i didnt get the system to help with my traction though, so thats kind of a mute point.