SHG_Felliphe's EG Hatch Build Thread
The weds are going to be sick man!
I think I'm more excited about the fact that you have factory cruise control and I'm super jealous. The ole dead leg on long trips thing sucks.
I think I'm more excited about the fact that you have factory cruise control and I'm super jealous. The ole dead leg on long trips thing sucks.

haha. Thanks man.

I think so. I only took it up and down the street so its hard to say. Plus it only sputtered when getting on the gas quickly from a low rpm but so far I didn't happen. Should make the motor feel a little quicker/more responsive. Yeah pretty excited to not have the red stuff on there and to actually have a reliable motor. Super easy to do as well, took about 30 minutes.
All I know is these wheels have more miles being shipped around the world than actually driven on lol. Should be getting their first taste of US pavement in 3 weeks =]Mike, I just went for a drive and yeah all the sputtering is gone, WOT at 1.5k no issues! It drives a little smoother coming on and off the gas, almost not noticeable but I ripped it up and man it just picks up the revs a bit better. VTEC sounds a lot more alive and strong. Up top the gains are more noticeable. Just a little more pep to it.
What I also noticed is that my headlights dim when I get on the gas lol. Really need to replace that battery from 07 haha.
why didn't you go with ITR spec coils and rear lca's? and the sputtering could be your fuel pump on its way out if the tune up stuff doesn't do the trick.
Lol hurt life 
Thanks bud they will def look stunning.
I wish I could afford a swap! Still want to play with this motor a little more regardless. It has potential.*
I suppose. You were killing it though with the JDM interior, B16A, fresh paint and just about every color regamasters that were offered. I'm just taking notes :p
The sputtering is fixed, pretty sure it was the spark plugs but the new rotor, cap and wires certainly helped. My fuel filter should be available soon and I'll be cleaning the injectors too when I pick it up and install it. The fuel pump could prob use replacement but it works fine. I know I've leaned it out a little bit from being on low fuel so often in the past but rarely dangerously low to the point of running on fumes. I've gotten to that point twice and both times made it to a gas station but I'm not worried, the pump is healthy. It's not abused.
I considered getting ITR style LCAs and rear coilover mounts but opted out of that because I looked at pictures of EGs equipped with them an it looks good but I like how the EG lcas look better on an EG. I also love how the regular EG rear coilover mounts look like, it's such a nice design especially compared to other brands. The ITR style mounts are just a round ball with bushing which isnt as nice looking and while it works without issue i just think the eg style is makes much more sense from a design standpoint. Finally I wanted to address the issue because there isn't much documentation on this issue and wanted to get a legit fix to the problem, there's only a couple of threads on this and the current fixes that I'm aware of aren't exactly what I would describe as "proper". The other issue would of been having to get ITR lcas which would run me more money for something I didn't really want since I want to run an aftermarket lca which I wasn't going to get now. I plan on going with either Buddy club lcas or Function7. Now the F7s for EG have 3 mounting holes for the sway bar end link on each side so that you can tune how quickly it starts to take effect where as the ITR style only has 1 hole per side. I just think the EG style is a better design overall IMO. I wonder what the weight differences are. Buddy Club also doesn't have an ITR style lca so going that route would leave me only 2 options, f7 or OEM. Long reply but I hope you can understand why after all that lol. Yes my tuning philosophy is out there!

I wish I could afford a swap! Still want to play with this motor a little more regardless. It has potential.*
I suppose. You were killing it though with the JDM interior, B16A, fresh paint and just about every color regamasters that were offered. I'm just taking notes :p
I considered getting ITR style LCAs and rear coilover mounts but opted out of that because I looked at pictures of EGs equipped with them an it looks good but I like how the EG lcas look better on an EG. I also love how the regular EG rear coilover mounts look like, it's such a nice design especially compared to other brands. The ITR style mounts are just a round ball with bushing which isnt as nice looking and while it works without issue i just think the eg style is makes much more sense from a design standpoint. Finally I wanted to address the issue because there isn't much documentation on this issue and wanted to get a legit fix to the problem, there's only a couple of threads on this and the current fixes that I'm aware of aren't exactly what I would describe as "proper". The other issue would of been having to get ITR lcas which would run me more money for something I didn't really want since I want to run an aftermarket lca which I wasn't going to get now. I plan on going with either Buddy club lcas or Function7. Now the F7s for EG have 3 mounting holes for the sway bar end link on each side so that you can tune how quickly it starts to take effect where as the ITR style only has 1 hole per side. I just think the EG style is a better design overall IMO. I wonder what the weight differences are. Buddy Club also doesn't have an ITR style lca so going that route would leave me only 2 options, f7 or OEM. Long reply but I hope you can understand why after all that lol. Yes my tuning philosophy is out there!
Lol hurt life 
Thanks bud they will def look stunning.
I wish I could afford a swap! Still want to play with this motor a little more regardless. It has potential.*
I suppose. You were killing it though with the JDM interior, B16A, fresh paint and just about every color regamasters that were offered. I'm just taking notes :p
The sputtering is fixed, pretty sure it was the spark plugs but the new rotor, cap and wires certainly helped. My fuel filter should be available soon and I'll be cleaning the injectors too when I pick it up and install it. The fuel pump could prob use replacement but it works fine. I know I've leaned it out a little bit from being on low fuel so often in the past but rarely dangerously low to the point of running on fumes. I've gotten to that point twice and both times made it to a gas station but I'm not worried, the pump is healthy. It's not abused.
I considered getting ITR style LCAs and rear coilover mounts but opted out of that because I looked at pictures of EGs equipped with them an it looks good but I like how the EG lcas look better on an EG. I also love how the regular EG rear coilover mounts look like, it's such a nice design especially compared to other brands. The ITR style mounts are just a round ball with bushing which isnt as nice looking and while it works without issue i just think the eg style is makes much more sense from a design standpoint. Finally I wanted to address the issue because there isn't much documentation on this issue and wanted to get a legit fix to the problem, there's only a couple of threads on this and the current fixes that I'm aware of aren't exactly what I would describe as "proper". The other issue would of been having to get ITR lcas which would run me more money for something I didn't really want since I want to run an aftermarket lca which I wasn't going to get now. I plan on going with either Buddy club lcas or Function7. Now the F7s for EG have 3 mounting holes for the sway bar end link on each side so that you can tune how quickly it starts to take effect where as the ITR style only has 1 hole per side. I just think the EG style is a better design overall IMO. I wonder what the weight differences are. Buddy Club also doesn't have an ITR style lca so going that route would leave me only 2 options, f7 or OEM. Long reply but I hope you can understand why after all that lol. Yes my tuning philosophy is out there!

Thanks bud they will def look stunning.
I wish I could afford a swap! Still want to play with this motor a little more regardless. It has potential.*
I suppose. You were killing it though with the JDM interior, B16A, fresh paint and just about every color regamasters that were offered. I'm just taking notes :p
The sputtering is fixed, pretty sure it was the spark plugs but the new rotor, cap and wires certainly helped. My fuel filter should be available soon and I'll be cleaning the injectors too when I pick it up and install it. The fuel pump could prob use replacement but it works fine. I know I've leaned it out a little bit from being on low fuel so often in the past but rarely dangerously low to the point of running on fumes. I've gotten to that point twice and both times made it to a gas station but I'm not worried, the pump is healthy. It's not abused.
I considered getting ITR style LCAs and rear coilover mounts but opted out of that because I looked at pictures of EGs equipped with them an it looks good but I like how the EG lcas look better on an EG. I also love how the regular EG rear coilover mounts look like, it's such a nice design especially compared to other brands. The ITR style mounts are just a round ball with bushing which isnt as nice looking and while it works without issue i just think the eg style is makes much more sense from a design standpoint. Finally I wanted to address the issue because there isn't much documentation on this issue and wanted to get a legit fix to the problem, there's only a couple of threads on this and the current fixes that I'm aware of aren't exactly what I would describe as "proper". The other issue would of been having to get ITR lcas which would run me more money for something I didn't really want since I want to run an aftermarket lca which I wasn't going to get now. I plan on going with either Buddy club lcas or Function7. Now the F7s for EG have 3 mounting holes for the sway bar end link on each side so that you can tune how quickly it starts to take effect where as the ITR style only has 1 hole per side. I just think the EG style is a better design overall IMO. I wonder what the weight differences are. Buddy Club also doesn't have an ITR style lca so going that route would leave me only 2 options, f7 or OEM. Long reply but I hope you can understand why after all that lol. Yes my tuning philosophy is out there!
look at this.....good money saving option
http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp...2&strClass3=18
http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp...2&strClass3=18
Lol hurt life 
I considered getting ITR style LCAs and rear coilover mounts but opted out of that because I looked at pictures of EGs equipped with them an it looks good but I like how the EG lcas look better on an EG. I also love how the regular EG rear coilover mounts look like, it's such a nice design especially compared to other brands. The ITR style mounts are just a round ball with bushing which isnt as nice looking and while it works without issue i just think the eg style is makes much more sense from a design standpoint. Finally I wanted to address the issue because there isn't much documentation on this issue and wanted to get a legit fix to the problem, there's only a couple of threads on this and the current fixes that I'm aware of aren't exactly what I would describe as "proper". The other issue would of been having to get ITR lcas which would run me more money for something I didn't really want since I want to run an aftermarket lca which I wasn't going to get now. I plan on going with either Buddy club lcas or Function7. Now the F7s for EG have 3 mounting holes for the sway bar end link on each side so that you can tune how quickly it starts to take effect where as the ITR style only has 1 hole per side. I just think the EG style is a better design overall IMO. I wonder what the weight differences are. Buddy Club also doesn't have an ITR style lca so going that route would leave me only 2 options, f7 or OEM. Long reply but I hope you can understand why after all that lol. Yes my tuning philosophy is out there!

I considered getting ITR style LCAs and rear coilover mounts but opted out of that because I looked at pictures of EGs equipped with them an it looks good but I like how the EG lcas look better on an EG. I also love how the regular EG rear coilover mounts look like, it's such a nice design especially compared to other brands. The ITR style mounts are just a round ball with bushing which isnt as nice looking and while it works without issue i just think the eg style is makes much more sense from a design standpoint. Finally I wanted to address the issue because there isn't much documentation on this issue and wanted to get a legit fix to the problem, there's only a couple of threads on this and the current fixes that I'm aware of aren't exactly what I would describe as "proper". The other issue would of been having to get ITR lcas which would run me more money for something I didn't really want since I want to run an aftermarket lca which I wasn't going to get now. I plan on going with either Buddy club lcas or Function7. Now the F7s for EG have 3 mounting holes for the sway bar end link on each side so that you can tune how quickly it starts to take effect where as the ITR style only has 1 hole per side. I just think the EG style is a better design overall IMO. I wonder what the weight differences are. Buddy Club also doesn't have an ITR style lca so going that route would leave me only 2 options, f7 or OEM. Long reply but I hope you can understand why after all that lol. Yes my tuning philosophy is out there!
I don't know if it's you that posted my car on FB last night, but good lord that thing blew up. I was sittin at home playing X-Box and got a couple text messages from my friend. "YOUR CAR IS ON THE SHG FB PAGE!!!!". Pretty cool to get that much love from all over the country like that.
There is no gain from one to the other. I haven't noticed a single difference. F7's cost enough to be money for seat time. I do believe hard race make's new bushing for what you have now and all you need to do is figure out the size of the bushing. I regret buying buying my f7's because no one local will pay a decent price for them. So I'll just keep them. Will save me unsprung weight I guess later on for auto x. IMO i would try to replace the busted bushing in what you have now and save the extra money for either seat time or other stuff you need to get done to the car.
I don't know which route I'll be going with but I also have more choices by staying with EG, I just don't want to go ITR style thats all. Nothing against it. Stock for stock I'm saving at least $60 by staying with my stock LCAS but you're right there really isn't much of a difference but this is just the choice I'm going with.
The stuff I have now was just meant to be on for 2 months till I got bushings but I never did so it just stayed there, meh. I wanted to get bushings for the entire car and put them on my stock LCAS and then make the switch.
Getting aftermarket LCAs is part of my suspension plan. Something for another time. It was pushed back from being done this spring to being done this summer and then from being done this fall but right now it looks like it won't be getting an overhaul until next spring but I'll start collecting parts in the winter. Theres nothing wrong with delaying plans because you have to be able to adapt to current situations you know? Yeah the suspension is delayed but hey, all my maintenance is getting sorted and I have some dope Weds and N+!
look at this.....good money saving option
http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp...2&strClass3=18
http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp...2&strClass3=18
yeah they just made the design on the type r different to be crappier then the eg's and regular dc's. i don't know why but im thinking about switching my itr's lca's to the regular style the eg and dc's have. think im gonna go with the blox lca's cause they look better imo in all the colors they have available. :sarcasm:

I don't know if it's you that posted my car on FB last night, but good lord that thing blew up. I was sittin at home playing X-Box and got a couple text messages from my friend. "YOUR CAR IS ON THE SHG FB PAGE!!!!". Pretty cool to get that much love from all over the country like that.
Its an honor to be a part of it 
I remember saving pictures of your hatch too, had them on my wallpapers around 2005-06 haha. Its cool that you still have it and all. I love your car bud, inspiration too!
Update:
I have been getting a lot of things done lately so I wanted to post some of it for now at least.
Got another tee designed by Mike, one of my favorites.


Hung out with Evan 2 Fridays ago and we removed the spacers from the mounts with a socket + hammer and got some precise measurements using a caliper so that they can be machined to the right size.


Threw in the horn tab. I'm going to get a proper connector and wire to bolt up to it since it has a bend at the end for it but for now this will work without issues. Just wanted to get my horn working again asap.

Been getting some sweet MPGs.. More on that later.

Picked up my OEM fuel filter at Majestic and changed it out. Super easy to do, heres a DIY for all the maintenance. Its for a 6th gen but its basically the same. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-96-00-honda-civic-tune-up-fuel-filter-2872418/


I was hanging with Mike the day after I did my wires and plugs and he aligned them properly. I did what I could when I threw them in but knew something was off. Looks much better now! Just need to get some OEM clips that keeps them spaced so for now I'm using just 1 that was on my old wire set.

Got a can of Brakleen and STP Fuel Injector Cleaner.

I could now do the trick that Gourley had told me about a year ago.
Originally Posted by gourley
Another DIY tuneup you should consider next is fuel filter and cleaning the injectors. What I usally do is replace fuel filter (if you already havent) then remove the injectors from the fuel rail. Take a small bucket and fill the bottom 3/4 an inch with fuel injector cleaner and brake parts cleaner. Remove the injector top screen and dump them into the cleaner, then take the injectors and place them nozzle side down into the cleaner and let sit for 15 minutes. Take out and pour some brake parts cleaner inside the injector then replace the filter screen on top and reinstall injectors. I've noticed 5mpg difference after cleaning them DIY also smoother idle.

It will look like this.

Then just remove the 3 nuts that hold down the fuel rail and the rail comes out and you can pull the injectors out.

This is what they all looked like.

Pulled the top hats/top screens out and threw them in the 50/50 mix of Brakleen and STP. I let them sit for 20min and blasted each with Brakleen when I took them out.

Injectors too.

Sprayed the top with Brakleen and put the screens back in and wiped the bottoms.

After going for a drive the car feels a bit nicer, felt like the throttle response was crispier and a little more torque. I have to say, it feels really good to get all this maintenance done. VTEC sounds so healthy and I'm finding myself not stepping on the gas as much like before. MPG has gone up a lot so tune in tomorrow for part 2
Seems like everything you do adds more response and torque. Can you teach me how to do that :p. I kid I kid. Glad you're finally sorting the maintanence all out. It'll be worth it to do it first.
I don't get to the redline too often other than getting up to speed on the highway so I can't comment much but yeah normal driving it responds better to throttle input. You need to take it for a spin!Did I ever mention that I also feel less drag after I wash my car?
I kid!
Here you go then 
Update:
To follow up on that picture of my cluster...

Haha I love it. 37mpg and theres a lot of room for improvement. 42 mixed should be very doable without much effort but I'd like to be at 45mpg mixed with a little work.
I picked up this stuff per Evan's suggestion of being the most effective out of the bunch and threw it in the gas tank and filled her all up to complete my fuel system maintenance (fuel injector cleaning, new filter and Techron system cleaner). Hoping for 40mpg this tank.

This past Friday me and EasyE were hanging again and he came through once again and mounted my pair of 195/50/15 Star Spec Z1s that I had picked up a few months ago for $20 lol. They are worn but have 1 track day left in them or about 3-4k street miles. My S. Drives lasted about 2 years and I liked them overall, should of lasted twice that if I hadn't driven on them all year round including winter lol and if I had kept the alignment in check so I'm happy with it. Front passenger side was getting pretty bald there...

The rears are still S. Drives but they have more life left. It will hold me over till winter.
I love how the Star Specs look, its amazing how much just the tires can improve the appearance so much. Just beefy, love it.

Had to get a new bottle too since my other one is running out. Glad my setup doesn't dust much but I wouldn't mind much if it did.

Initial impressions:
Even being this worn they are ways grippier than my S. Drives if they were new. Ride comfort is about the same and they're even quieter but thats probably because the S.Drives were out of thread.
Turn in response is very sharp and overall they feel solid. Very predictable as to where the grip is even in wet and are very well in braking too. I can brake just right before the turn which is scary for the regular person thats used to all seasons haha but you guys are all familiar with it so you must be thinking its nothing special but for a street car its plenty fun. I don't have enough brakes to be able to lock them up from 50mph or above but the couple of times I did it was very easy to gauge it and recover.
I have driven on Z1s before and its a blast being able to go where you want and make late minute corrections if needed. The only spirited driving I do is on exit ramps so I'm still learning them and I'm just surprised that they are this good even being near the wear bars.
Can't wait to get some tires of this category onto my Weds
However that won't be for a while since I had this guy take a look at my passenger side and gave me a quote to repair the dent which I think makes more sense to fix before. I'd rather have a clean body than dope wheels but it won't happen before the SHG meet and I need to buy myself a laptop for school and I just dropped guap to renew my green card so I'm not going to do either tires nor bodywork from the looks of it. Priorities
I'm cool with that though, the original plan was to get tires next year anyways and Dunlop Star Spec ZIIs are coming then so it makes more sense to wait and get them in time for track days. We'll see how that develops but I'm doing track days next year 100%.
EasyE asked if I wanted to powerwash my engine bay and I said hell yeah! Here he is spraying the bay with some sort of degreaser, not sure what it is exactly.

Let it soak for 10 minutes and washed err down.



Repeated the process another 2 times and then I jacked up the front and sprayed everything underneath, let it soak and washed it all down. Everything is so much cleaner now and my block is actually silver ha. The only downside is that all the rusty hardware really pops now lol. Something to start working on soon I suppose.

Placed an order at Amazon for 3M Windo-Weld urethane so that I can fill my engine mounts because they buck like a damn horse! Between that and the soft OEM worn clutch stop and go traffic is annoying.

Just need to get a caulking gun and find the right day to do it since it needs about 24hrs to cure.
I wasn't happy with the hardware I got for my lip recently since the bolt heads were too fat so I ended up not throwing them on and got these instead but the design of them doesn't allow it to sit flush all the way down so there was a gap so they didn't work either. The part where a wrench could fit is the issue, it would work if that wasn't there.

The OEM lip doesn't sit nice even with OEM Honda hardware (which is not listed for sale but if you have the part numbers and its still available it would run you $70
so that's not an option)
I was sick of really crappy fitment so I did something about it. I drilled tiny holes and pushed down on the lip for a good fitment and tightened screws down where I felt it was needed on the tabs.
Came out epic and I honestly feel that you can't get this fitment with OEM hardware. I might paint the screws black though haha.

Something else I did was improve the fitment of the front end and learned a few tricks but thats something for the next update
I can't emphasize enough how important the front end fitment of these cars are. It makes the car IMO much cleaner looking. Like Evan said, manufacturers back then weren't so worried about panel fitment like they are today so its nice to improve upon the original design
I don't have any shots but I will for the next update. There are some parts coming this week too

Update:
To follow up on that picture of my cluster...

Haha I love it. 37mpg and theres a lot of room for improvement. 42 mixed should be very doable without much effort but I'd like to be at 45mpg mixed with a little work.
I picked up this stuff per Evan's suggestion of being the most effective out of the bunch and threw it in the gas tank and filled her all up to complete my fuel system maintenance (fuel injector cleaning, new filter and Techron system cleaner). Hoping for 40mpg this tank.

This past Friday me and EasyE were hanging again and he came through once again and mounted my pair of 195/50/15 Star Spec Z1s that I had picked up a few months ago for $20 lol. They are worn but have 1 track day left in them or about 3-4k street miles. My S. Drives lasted about 2 years and I liked them overall, should of lasted twice that if I hadn't driven on them all year round including winter lol and if I had kept the alignment in check so I'm happy with it. Front passenger side was getting pretty bald there...

The rears are still S. Drives but they have more life left. It will hold me over till winter.
I love how the Star Specs look, its amazing how much just the tires can improve the appearance so much. Just beefy, love it.

Had to get a new bottle too since my other one is running out. Glad my setup doesn't dust much but I wouldn't mind much if it did.

Initial impressions:
Even being this worn they are ways grippier than my S. Drives if they were new. Ride comfort is about the same and they're even quieter but thats probably because the S.Drives were out of thread.
Turn in response is very sharp and overall they feel solid. Very predictable as to where the grip is even in wet and are very well in braking too. I can brake just right before the turn which is scary for the regular person thats used to all seasons haha but you guys are all familiar with it so you must be thinking its nothing special but for a street car its plenty fun. I don't have enough brakes to be able to lock them up from 50mph or above but the couple of times I did it was very easy to gauge it and recover.
I have driven on Z1s before and its a blast being able to go where you want and make late minute corrections if needed. The only spirited driving I do is on exit ramps so I'm still learning them and I'm just surprised that they are this good even being near the wear bars.
Can't wait to get some tires of this category onto my Weds
However that won't be for a while since I had this guy take a look at my passenger side and gave me a quote to repair the dent which I think makes more sense to fix before. I'd rather have a clean body than dope wheels but it won't happen before the SHG meet and I need to buy myself a laptop for school and I just dropped guap to renew my green card so I'm not going to do either tires nor bodywork from the looks of it. Priorities
I'm cool with that though, the original plan was to get tires next year anyways and Dunlop Star Spec ZIIs are coming then so it makes more sense to wait and get them in time for track days. We'll see how that develops but I'm doing track days next year 100%.
EasyE asked if I wanted to powerwash my engine bay and I said hell yeah! Here he is spraying the bay with some sort of degreaser, not sure what it is exactly.

Let it soak for 10 minutes and washed err down.



Repeated the process another 2 times and then I jacked up the front and sprayed everything underneath, let it soak and washed it all down. Everything is so much cleaner now and my block is actually silver ha. The only downside is that all the rusty hardware really pops now lol. Something to start working on soon I suppose.

Placed an order at Amazon for 3M Windo-Weld urethane so that I can fill my engine mounts because they buck like a damn horse! Between that and the soft OEM worn clutch stop and go traffic is annoying.

Just need to get a caulking gun and find the right day to do it since it needs about 24hrs to cure.
I wasn't happy with the hardware I got for my lip recently since the bolt heads were too fat so I ended up not throwing them on and got these instead but the design of them doesn't allow it to sit flush all the way down so there was a gap so they didn't work either. The part where a wrench could fit is the issue, it would work if that wasn't there.

The OEM lip doesn't sit nice even with OEM Honda hardware (which is not listed for sale but if you have the part numbers and its still available it would run you $70
so that's not an option)I was sick of really crappy fitment so I did something about it. I drilled tiny holes and pushed down on the lip for a good fitment and tightened screws down where I felt it was needed on the tabs.
Came out epic and I honestly feel that you can't get this fitment with OEM hardware. I might paint the screws black though haha.

Something else I did was improve the fitment of the front end and learned a few tricks but thats something for the next update
I can't emphasize enough how important the front end fitment of these cars are. It makes the car IMO much cleaner looking. Like Evan said, manufacturers back then weren't so worried about panel fitment like they are today so its nice to improve upon the original design
I don't have any shots but I will for the next update. There are some parts coming this week too





