That's the man! I hope to place my order within 2 weeks.

 

What header is ok for my 96x92?

 

That all depends, is it a street car or race car?

 

It is for a streetcar. "Weekend warrior"

 

Here you go.

https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...-test-3005484/

 

sorry to thread jack from OP but i wanted to know whats the beneficial of having a megaphone versus a megaphone with reserve cone connects to exhaust piping? if that makes any sense. The car will be a street driven with 12.1 CP LSvtec 1.8L

 

Any answers? I also wanat to know about this..

 

If you are running a full exhaust I doubt you will see much of a gain from a megaphone/reverse cone. I'm not sure if anyone has done any actual dyno test on it.

 

Martin88, I would run one of our b20 headers on your engine.

 

I just dynoed yesterday with my new hytech "big tube" header over my PLM standard tube header and lost 20hp over the plm between 6 to 7 and we tried everything from fueling to timing to intake setup, to vtec engagement. The PLM also made 10 more peak hp.

I feel dumb having paid that much for it and getting out performed by an ebay header.

My set up is 85x89 b20v with itr head, pro2, 70mm throttle body, ported edelbrock and made 239 last march

 

That is odd, but was this on the same dyno with same wheels/tires as the previous run? Comparing dynos is impossible with variables. Aside from that I will say that B20v setups with B16 heads require more scavenging than primary siZe when it comes to a header. My old 84.5x89 12:1 setup with 4Piston ported B16 head and SK2Pro2 cams made 230 through an S4C with an RMF Narrow header. Standard primary into 3" collector and 3" test pipe back to Thermal 3" exhaust. I never went to a different header because I ended up going boost with that setup, but I was told by my tuner not to waste my money because my header was fine for my setup. I have always been under the impression that these off the shelf big tube headers were initially designed for SC setups and are not ideal for the high revving big cube B series because they do not promote proper scavenging. I would stay with a standard header unless going to a custom design for your exact setup, which is going to cost
Some serious coin. Sorry about your problems! All of that aside though, if the two occasions were in different weather, at different shops, or with different wheels/tires, you can't really compare those results at that point.

 

I hope I made the right choice with mine, was making 262 with the B19 header and stepped up to the B20 big tube, but will be changing a few things and fuel and will be chasing that 300 number in the spring.

 

You can't yada yada your way to 300. Please share the details =p

 

I can so....lol. I am switching to the new header, adding a spacer to the ultra race, and switching to a roller cam setup so new rockers and some big boy cams, and also making the switch to methanol and will be tuning on FTW Black. I have been told by several, that just the fuel switch I should be close so we'll see how things go moving forward. Car worked very well last year, hoping for a solid 11.50 car in street trim, full interior, exhaust, etc. Would be cool to race some of the cut up index cars with a full interior street car.

 

Tires and wheels were different, we figured it was my wideband and im getting too much fuel. It was on the wrong calibration and it was tuned off what it read so it threw off the tune, will post results this weekend, made 239 in 3/2013. So i'm hoping to chase 250whp on the same dynojet.

 

Tubing is tubing! These $1000+ headers are a joke and you're paying for a name. Sure someone had to put the R&D time into one that works but its a dog eat dog world. Someone somewhere is gonna copy you if it works, think of it as a compliment.

It cracks me up to see these guys on here telling you how only a SMSP or a $1200 sheepy header will work on your build... lol get a PLM and be done with it and save the rest of the money for other mods and beer!

 

Yeah, tubing is tubing and quality tubing isn't cheap. We make very little profit on our headers since we take so much time building them. We purge every tube which is expensive and our average labor rate works out to like $25hr. Where else are you gonna find a tig welder with 40 years experience and over 60 different weld certs for that price? PLM is a great budget header (I have put some on customers cars) but they won't last as long, make more power, or look as good as ours. It all comes down to you get what you pay for.

 

My hytech was 1280 looks about the same minus etching on the flange, and made LESS power than my 250 Chinese ebay plm, I lost 20hp between 6000 and 7500 with the hytech than the plm and lost 10 peak hp.

 

Said picture of dyno to back up proof.

 

Didn't you already say you did these two dyno runs with different wheels and tires and like a year apart? That could account for the changes right there man. I've literally done zero changes to parts or tuning and picked up almost 20HP and 9tq just throwing the same car on the rollers two different times. This is not a conclusive enough test to say that a PLM header does better than a "top shelf" header.

 

I do have a question about these headers and how they are built. Is there any dyno charts compared to others? How does up pipe exhaust compared to regular 4-1. Is it proved that Up pipe exhuast makes more power? I am currently on the market for a nice manifold, just unsure whom to really go through. I've been leaning towards ASP or meyers.

 

I have yet to see a PLM that looked near as good as one of our headers. I'm not sure if Hytech is still hand building all his headers. We still hand build all of ours.

 

I eliminated the dyno variable and used the same dyno as previous owner and put down 197 to his 216 on a dyno dynamics with comparable weather conditions and even had the program take weather out of the equation. The line still speaks for itself in the dip between 5700 and 7000. My PLM had no such characteristics.

 

Dyno graph of

 

Best results of plm vs best results of hytech