I just got a CEL code 7, which is the TPS sensor.
I did adjust the idle screw last week to rise the idle RPM to around 900 rpm, because the engine would bounce up and down and stall occasionally when the engine get hot in traffic. That stalling problem went away but the idle still bounce up and down after I adjust the idle screw.

So my question is that if it is possible that I adjusted the idle screw too much, so it give a CEL code for the TPS sensor? Or it is the TPS is going bad, that's why I get the CEL and have the bouncing idle and stalling problem?

 

Did you change your throttle body lately?

 

No, nothing have been done to the TB except I adjusted the idle screw.

 

what happens if you reset the ECU?

 

Haven't try that yet

 

Have you tried cleaning your IAC (Idle Air Control Valve)? Usually that is the culprit of an irratic idle. If you are running hondata you can turn up the duty cycle to prevent it from stalling when coming to traffic lights and such. As for the idle screwcausing a TPS cel, the TPS sensor is designed to operate within a certain voltage range, if the begining voltage (closed throttle) is too high or the WOT voltage is too high it could pull a CEL.

 

I reset the ECU, the CEL is gone for now.
The CEL came on around a week after I adjusted the idle screw. I will try to turn it back a bit to see if it will keep the CEL off.

 

i had a similiar prob and after doin this how to, my car purs like its brand new. i was too throwin a code 7 on my b16, replaced and calibrated the tps, yet nuthing. then i adjust my fitv and it was all gravy. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1003988

 

But my idle problem only occur when the engine is fully warm up. Usually happened when the car is sitting in traffic and the engine get really hot.

 

for some strange reason, my idle was doin this whether it was cold or hot. on cold start most of the time, warm idle, sometimes. if i were u, just adjust the fitv back to specs, clean out the iacv, and recalibrate ur tps.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mafay2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But my idle problem only occur when the engine is fully warm up. Usually happened when the car is sitting in traffic and the engine get really hot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

OK, the CEL came back on today. The engine still run very strong even with the CEL on. I checked it again, it is still code 7 - TPS sensor.

 

replaced tps with good known one and recalibrate it. .5v closed, 4.5wot and there should be a smooth transistion from close to open vice versa.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mafay2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, the CEL came back on today. The engine still run very strong even with the CEL on. I checked it again, it is still code 7 - TPS sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I guess that what I have to do. Now the tough part will be finding a TPS sensor. Anyone have one for sale?

 

I just swap the TPS sensor tonight, and the CEL is still on. Also tried another ECU, the CEL is still on.

The engine still run fine with the CEL on, I can still rev to redline and VTEC also kick in. I even unpluged the plug connected to the TPS sensor, and the car still run the same. I am running P28 Hondata now, and also tried a P30 OBD2 ECU, it still give the same CEL code 7. The engine also idle normally at around 8-900RPM.

Anyone have any idea on what I can do to fix the CEL?

 

Anyone?

 

tps is calibrated as well?

 

yes, and the CEL came on like 2 sec after I started the engine.
And tonight, the CEL didn't come on after I reset it, but the engine hesistate everytime i lift off the throttle or in very very light throttle. This problem wasn't there when I was driving with the CEL on last night.

 

dood i say removed the fitv and readjust it. i did it and my code 7 went away as well even after i replaced it with a damn brand new tps and calibrated it as well. give that a try.