I am thinking about putting the R in storage for a while until I finish school. Do you guys have any tips for preserving my car. My storage shed isnt air conditioned so I am worried about that, but the car will be completely closed in and in the shade. Any help would be appreciated.

 

drain fluids, and put on jack stands if i am correct

 

Storing the R in North Texas? That rocks, it doesnt even get that cold here compared to the folks in the Northeast. Your car is spoiled!

Start the car every now and then as well, if the rings sit in one spot for too long, it can scar the walls.

 

Taken straight from the owners manual, page 216 :

* Fill fuel tank

* Change engine oil and filter

* Clean the interior

* Leave parking brake off. Put transmission in reverse

* IF the car is to be stored for a long period, it should be supported by jackstands so the tires are off the ground

* Leave one window open slightly

* Disconnect battery

* Support front/rear wiper plade arms with a folded towel/rag so they do not touch windsheild

* To minimize sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and hatch seals. Also, apply, a body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and hatch seals

* Cover car with a "breathable" cover, one made from porous material such as cotton. Non porous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture, which can damage the paint

* If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheOne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am thinking about putting the R in storage for a while until I finish school. Do you guys have any tips for preserving my car. My storage shed isnt air conditioned so I am worried about that, but the car will be completely closed in and in the shade. Any help would be appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

my car has been in storage outside and covered since sept. this is what i do.

i changed all my oil fluids prior to storage, and filter, and topped off with premium gas aswell. i do weekly 10 minute idle runs. 5 minutes in neutral, and 5 minutes in 1-2 gear once engine is warmed.

car is on jack stands, no wheels, suspension is back to stock, e brake is down. battery is always connected. windows are up.

 

I store my S2000 in an insulated, but unheated garage, here in PA. It's currently about 16 degrees outside and this is all I do for storage:

1. Fill fuel tank. Use recommended dose of STabil fuel stabilizer and octance booster.

2. disconnect battery.

3. park with all 4 wheels on carpet.

4. cover with breathable car cover (just like the OEM Honda one)

5. Transmission in neutral, no brake engaged.

6. Fresh wax before storage. as well as full interior detail.

I never heard that about the wiper blades, but i might give it a shot. I never had trouble with mine.

 

I know a lot of people say run the engine and then some resources on the net say don't run the engine. Not sure what is best, but maybe google it and do some research.

I stored my ITR for about a year, may have started it once every few months, and then recently just started it up, drove it ####### the race track and had no problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Taken straight from the owners manual, page 216 :

* Fill fuel tank

* Change engine oil and filter

* Clean the interior

* Leave parking brake off. Put transmission in reverse

* IF the car is to be stored for a long period, it should be supported by jackstands so the tires are off the ground

* Leave one window open slightly

* Disconnect battery

* Support front/rear wiper plade arms with a folded towel/rag so they do not touch windsheild

* To minimize sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and hatch seals. Also, apply, a body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and hatch seals

* Cover car with a "breathable" cover, one made from porous material such as cotton. Non porous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture, which can damage the paint

* If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month)</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

nice info guys

 

to add on top of that also since my car will be stored soon:

leaving the car on jacks has to be one of the most debated issues on storing a car. the car is designed to have a load on the suspension for the majority of it's life, i would leave it on jacks if you are scared of flat spots or if you have flooding issues where you live.

clean the hell out of your interior, especially no food or crap, you don't want that crap molding and such

fill up your gas tank ALL the way up before storage and mix in some sta-bil. there are some products for oil and radiator fluid as well, if you leave your tank empty it could cause rust from what i heard, so if there is no room in your tank there will be no room for condensation and water to form.

try checking out the car bag kit...basically a huge zip up back for your car which i am looking into right now. helps keep moisture and dirt out and keeps condensation and humidity.
http://www.hvaa.com/carbag_concept.htm

if not try putting someone over your intake filter and exhaust to help keep critters out

and last also contact your insurance company and change your plan to save you some money also

 

Take it over to my house and I'll make sure the fluids are still good all winter long for free

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekay_jeremy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try checking out the car bag kit...basically a huge zip up back for your car which i am looking into right now. helps keep moisture and dirt out and keeps condensation and humidity.
http://www.hvaa.com/carbag_concept.htm

and last also contact your insurance company and change your plan to save you some money also</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks good, the teggy peice runs for $239.00. Might look into that myself.

I'am sure it's crossed his mind, at least I hope so, heh. It's not bad enough our rates are generally sky-high !

 

pretty cool info on storaging ..

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=302006

 

The reason why they say to run the car once a month, i think someone else has mentioned. This has happened to me with jdm motors. The rings stay collapsed. So what i would do is pour a small amount of oil down the cylinder and keep cranking it. It is a big hassle and to avoid this i definitely would start the car once a month. Besides If the car is in storage i would be sure to check it at least once a month. When you are there connect the battery so at least that charges as well, and start it up.

 

for my motorcycle, honda recommends to pour a teaspoon of oil down the cylinders and to loosen the spark plugs.

 

Firstly you will want to top off any fluids in your engine (rather than take them out). You will want to do this because air=corrosion and deterioration of metals, so make sure everything is full (gas most importantly). Run it for about 15 mins about once every month because engine components in twin cam cars need to be moved or else they stick in position. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!! You dont need to remove the tires or put it on jackstands, the rubber will be ok, on older radials or bias ply tires (which your car never came with) you would need to but your car isnt 40 yrs old lol. Get a decent car cover (try to get one that best fits your situation-if its outside get a waterproof cover, if its inside get something dustproof) it will make youre paint job last years longer. Finally, get some rat poison things and put them in and around your vehicle, trust me, mice and other vermin love cars. It seems like a very long response, but my uncle and I have put his old Corvette away from the winter in presumably worse climates (Massachusetts weather sux) for over 15 years, and it looks and drives just like it did after its restoration, so Im sure if a carborated big block can take it then the teg will have no problem firing up next season. Good luck man, hope all this helps!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by morocco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Firstly you will want to top off any fluids in your engine (rather than take them out). You will want to do this because air=corrosion and deterioration of metals, so make sure everything is full (gas most importantly). Run it for about 15 mins about once every month because engine components in twin cam cars need to be moved or else they stick in position. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!! You dont need to remove the tires or put it on jackstands, the rubber will be ok, on older radials or bias ply tires (which your car never came with) you would need to but your car isnt 40 yrs old lol. Get a decent car cover (try to get one that best fits your situation-if its outside get a waterproof cover, if its inside get something dustproof) it will make youre paint job last years longer. Finally, get some rat poison things and put them in and around your vehicle, trust me, mice and other vermin love cars. It seems like a very long response, but my uncle and I have put his old Corvette away from the winter in presumably worse climates (Massachusetts weather sux) for over 15 years, and it looks and drives just like it did after its restoration, so Im sure if a carborated big block can take it then the teg will have no problem firing up next season. Good luck man, hope all this helps!</TD></TR></TABLE>

What he said, plus make your avatar full size.

 

Haha I agree

 

ok this may be a stupid question, but would it be stupid to fill the oil up as much as it will take ?

I mean to overfill it, of course id drain it all and refill again when i go to start it.

But if you filled the thing then condensation wouldn't formw ould it ?

Or would this cause seals to leak ?

 

Nah just fill it to the normal amount, oil is very durable and wont corrode like gasoline, plus the fact that oil just goes on reciprocating parts, which are well sealed and dont rot or form condensation (usually). You will need the correct amount of oil in the pan to start your car up every month or so. You might want to change the oil and filter though, old oil can cause problems because it has **** in it and its already broken down. That brings me to a good point though; don't engage the parking brake, it will just stretch the cable and cause problems later. Put some blocks on the back tires so they dont start moving.

 

This could happen if you let your rings stay in the same place for a while.

 

OK, I feel I have some good info on this since I just got my car out of storage this week after 4 years!

Carbag is the poop that won't flush!
It comes with 5 or 10 lbs of dessicant. When I opened the bag the car looked newer than when I put it in! There wasn't even a slight hint of rust forming on the brake rotors.

Top off all fluids and add a stabilizer/corrosion inhibiter to all.

- Didn't worry about the wiper supporting. After 4 years I would need new wipers anyway.
- Didn't worry about the door seals. The carbag and shade keep the heat low enough that the rubber isn't going to melt.
- Did put "some" of the car weight on jackstands. The tires were still touching the ground. Just wanted to make sure the tires would roll enough to get me to the shop after 4 years.

All I did was pour some oil in the cylinders and put a battery in and the next day fired her up!

 

finally someone who has a carbag...glad to see it worked great