My car's throwing code 23-knock sensor. Anytime I step on it, around 5 grand, it starts popping and loses power. Sometimes my A/F gauge is lean, sometimes rich when it doesn't really pop. The colder and denser the air is, the less it does it. IS my car detonating and my knock sensor is out of wack or what? It's flashing the code, any help would be great.
Type R,stock internals, Drag 3 turbo, Blitz bc/bov, delta gate, AEM fuel rail

 

Check and make sure your knock sensor isnt broken. And if its not(which it most
likely isnt) then you need to curb the detonation.

 

Sounds like you have a serious detonation problem...at least that's what the popping sound would be.

 

I'm saving up to get a Tech-3 engine management system this summer, so I guess I'll just take it easy until then. Otherwise, it would bea waste of money, cause then it will just be longer till I get it. I saw a guy who was running 13lbs boost with stock internals in his type r,. making 322 whp. Thats what I wanna be doing until I get my bottom end built.

 

My advice...don't always believe what people tell you. And TEC-3 system...interesting...

 

have you heard bad things about the Tec3? Sounds like it to me. I don't see what would be so bad, only total control and direct fire ignition, sounds good to me

 

Some weird thing happened to my knock sensor too, when I run the OBD2 P30 ecu, no CEL, but when I run the P72 OBD1 ecu, it give a code 23. But if I switch back to obd2 P30, no CEL. So it either the P72 is more sensitity on the knock sensor, something is wrong with the P72.

But I need to run OBD 1 ecu, so I can't just put back the P30. Therefore, what I do is run a P28, that solve all the problem.

 

I fear for your engine with that deltagate!! get tial!! and take it easy for now...try retarding the timming 5 degrees...good luck

 

TEC systems are that great for daily driven cars. Primarily because they dont
have a good way of reading engine timing.

 

Hmm, I've been experiencing a power loss around 4-5k rpms, only has happened in 4th and 5th gear. If cruising at 75, I go to WOT, and there is no response from the motor, only the loudness coming from an open TB. It will continue to deccelerate, and I usually stop it by declutching letting the revs fall, then it's normal.

No CEL whatsoever. Stock ECU (P30?). Interesting is it started after I was driving and forgot to plug in my VSS after moving some wires. It occurs randomly evey 10 mins of so. Also with the VSS plugged in, I think I feel it but it's not nearly as profound, and I can still accelerate only slight loss in power.

So is this a faulty knock sensor or did I suddenly start predetonating? My plugs are all a brown color, all the same. My rotor looked a little worn, so I ordered cap, rotor, and wires from Mike K. *He is having a special right now, and he's closing out*

With no CEL to help, what do you think it is?


[Modified by sackdz, 6:24 PM 6/9/2002]


[Modified by sackdz, 6:24 PM 6/9/2002]

 

We did retard about 5 or 6 deg, and it actually started popping earlier. Have no clue what's going on. I know I'm running lean, got bigger injectors sitting at home, But I need tuning!!! I don't know whats going on. I gotta get it in to a shop...

 

Detonation wont be a popping sound.
Popping is more of a backfire caused by overly rich/lean conditoin.

 

do u suggest that i install my injectors with no kind of engine management system? i have blitz 534 cc injectors sitting at home, i figured that if i installed them with no way of controlling fuel, then I would run way too rich.

 

the car WONT run with that size of injector and no REAL engine management.

 

Honda finally got my new knock sensor in. Just have to wait till I have money to pick it up. It was like 150. I'll update within a few days...