You didn't get a print out?

I've been thinking of doing the as the rack at my old job is a painin the *** to get on for my R

 

How do you know how *** tastes like? LOL jk. Awesome write up!

 

Yeah no print out, knowing my luck they didnt even throw it up on the alignment rack. It worries me so I think I am going to see if I can take it to the Honda dealer where my friend works and just put it up there to check the specs. If it isnt what I asked for... someone has a lot of explaining to do or they will meet my Snap On torque wrench. Better yet my IR impact gun because that bitch is real heavy!

 

Hopefully not by experience.

 

sweeettttt!

 

I laughed out loud at work when I read this. Not necessarily a good thing when you're working at a radio station behind the microphone. I suppose it would make my newscasts a touch more interesting.

-Adam

 

i'm confused how you are sure that the string is in the proper place. i know you measure from the hubs taking in the difference in the track from front to rear, but since cars usually have different designs regarding the wheel bearings, hub, etc., how do you know you have a proper reference point to set the string from the hubs? and if the string is off by even the smallest amount, the toe reading will be all wrong. am i missing something? thanks.

 

ok, duh, just realized you simply measure to the center of the wheel, right? sorry, was thinking you had to measure directly to the hub. great idea with the suction cups though. now my only problem is that on two cars i have spacers/wheel adapters and different offset wheels which makes it impossible without the jackstand method.

 

getting ready to do this but the tie rod locknut is way bigger than 17mm (95 gsr).
looks more like 20 or 22. anybody know for sure? i definitely need a bigger wrench.
looks like a b***** to get loose too. helpful hints? i sprayed em both with penetrant.
might have to pull the wheels for better access.

 

it's 22mm.

 

Thanks for the guide. For those that don't have the photobucket plugin, here are images of the suction cup attached to the car: https://i.imgur.com/4JWJdN0.jpg


For those only interested in aligning the front wheels, it seems you may be able to place a suction cup behind and ahead one of the wheel. Then before attaching the string to the second cup, use a protractor set at 90 degrees of the bolt (surface of car must be straight, in this case behind the front wheel), hold it with a "mini" or 2" reach c-clamp or even needle nose vise grip and attach the string to the corresponding thread of the bolt on the 2nd cup. I haven't tried this out myself though.

 

Unfortunately that wont work. You cannot guaranteed the string is straight to the CENTERLINE of the car without measuring the distance of the string to the center of the center caps (compensating for difference in f & r track width). string-to-center cap is the best way for the DIY'er. It's very difficult to get it right. On a 16" rim, the difference between in-spec and out-of-spec is only 0.6mm between the leading & trailing edges of the rim. Getting consistent measuring and repeatable results takes lots of practice. If you can set everything up, measure, take everything down, set it up again and get the exact same numbers...then you got it.

 

Zombie..
results are very repeatable once you have done it a couple of times.
Now if I can find the time to drop the rebuilt motor in after 8 years. And yes, I still have the Spoon motor, sitting in the box, Virgin.

 

I came across some young 'mechanic' along Erdman Avenue in Baltimore MD, telling me the rear toes of Integra's/90s civics wasn't adjustable; and he knew this because he USED to work at a Honda dealership. I even draw out the toe hole, and show him how the bolt is moved left or right; and he still insists the toe is non-adjustable.

He goes on to say the caster and camber are adjustable in the rear. I tell him camber require aftermarket parts, and caster is tied to steering. I tell him he doesn't know what he's talking about (an uncontrolled 'outburst' on my end) and we turn away and depart.

I go to another shop, they finish up, without giving me the measurements, I had specifically requested on the paper I gave them. I offer them extra $50 cash to get put the vehicle back on the lift and get me my measurement. Turns out they didn't touch the camber even though I gave them a piece of paper specifying how I wanted it. I eventually get my refund after presenting them with a receipt from Firestone later in the day.

I specifically tell the Firestone tech, I don't want the camber set any where near negative 1, as I want my tires to wear out evenly, unlike the last set. They ignore me and leave it near negative 1. At this point I've already spent 7+ hours trying to get an alignment. So I just say **** it and put up with it.

But yeah, this is something a shade tree mechanic/DIYer should do themselves, and then pay the shop for an alignment CHECK, and then decide whether it's worth it to have them adjust whatever may need to be adjusted. THEN take the car for a ******* test drive, and make sure steering wheel is centered before paying them, if they do adjust anything. It seems when the rear toe is adjusted in anyway, one must take the car for a 40 mph test drive, to get the straight line position of the steering wheel.

One thing I'll do differently is go into the CAD program Sketchup, draw the wheel rim circumference and tire circumference, to get a better idea of the equivalent length is to the toe-in degree; and hopefully have a formula in Excel spreadsheet to compute it.
This site claims to calculate it though: https://robrobinette.com/ConvertToeInchesToDegrees.htm
The site linked, is for those using toe plates; not suitable for string method. SOHCAHTOA, may be the way.

For the record, I've had luck with Whiteline caster kit, but after while it seems, the 'negative' caster slowly comes back.

These videos gives a basic idea of measuring camber.


This video demonstrates how to use a DIY water level, to determine how to make an uneven surface leveled, using tiles.

 

Been to Firestone in my local area once or twice. They are far and away THE WORST. Of course a shop is only as good as its mechanics so every place will be different.

I found the best in my area was Sears, but they have since torn down the auto-shop at the local mall. Sad.

Even when it was open, the whole thing still took several hours as you have to first make an appointment and then bring the car in and sit around while they do what they do. After a few tries I'm able to do it faster and more accurate by myself. Hopefully my eyesight doesn't start failing.

 

I went ahead and tried the suction method, with mixed success.



After 10-15 minutes, all the suction cups fell off, for me; not at the same time though. I made the mistake of buying the 4" suction cup, instead of 2". I attached an 'extension rod', i.e. angled aluminum to the 4", and steel flat brace (adjusted with angle grinder) to the 2", since presumably my car wasn't lowered, and thus was unable to intersect the rear wheel hub center.

The crush washers, help the extension rods, pivot without damaging the 'mating surfaces', as much.

With the suction cups falling off, attaching an 8 oz plumb bob to a string, would be best avoided. I'll try to follow this guide (link), or add masking tape and see how the cups hold up. These (link) were my toe calculations using 'Inverse Tangent = (opposite/adjacent)' formula.

I also went ahead and made a 2x4 cribbing platform (pic), to allow quicker toe adjustment. I'll be placing a block of wood under the LCA and damper fork, then raising each wheel independently, (no clearance to lift beneath damper fork, car changes position especially with lubricated plastic bags, could fall off) with a plastic bag soaked with oil on the inside, to allow 'suspension settle' without rolling car. In regards to latter, 2 pieces of 1/16" or 1/8" thick plexiglass coated with lithium grease in-between, may be better.

Thanks again for the guide.

Edit:
I rubbed WD-40 over the rubber portion of the suction cup, and they were all able to stay on the car for way over an hour, in 85+ degree heat. I had 1.5 oz (1 oz should be enough) weights on each ends of the string, and didn't need to resort to anything else; quick and easy to make sure the string was the proper distance from the wheel hub.

 

Where can one find the stock alignment specs?