I have been doing my own aligments for a long time now as it is way cheaper and given some care, much more accurate than the dipshits who only care if it is "within specs" at the tire installers.
I actually had a readout on my wifes truck from a couple of years ago that was toe out on the passenger side and toe in on driver side. the dealership told me it was within spec, so the left it. of course the truck was drifting to the right all the time as both tires were pointing to the right all the time. Trying to explain that concept to the service manager was like explaining space flight to a hampster...
Anyway, I have always used the string box method, which is a pita to set up and keep straight if you roll the car back and forth between adjustments. I was thinking about how to keep the strings in the same position on the car, even if the car moves. i know everyone has seen or heard of smart strings, but that is more cash than i am willing to spend. I came up with a solution which costs a total of 10$.

(4) 2" Mini suction cup (quick release) Item # 46900 (on sale for $.99)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46900

(2) sections 7' of elastic string $1.29 from joanne fabric
(4) 4" machine screws and nuts (fine tread)
I dissasembled the suction cups, drilled a hole and inserted the screws, securing them with the bolts.
I attach the suction cups to the car, positioning the bolts about level with the front and rear hubs, suction cups to the sides of the front and rear bumpers.
Knot the elastic string and slide it over the bolt.
Using a 1/32"/1mm graduated metal ruler, measure to the center hubs to set up the string. Front track on an integra is 10mm wider, so the rear measurement will have to each be 5mm outset from the front measure (string to hub)
I finalized on 40mm front, 45mm rear
center the steering wheel and secure with a deadman (see pics below, 1 long piece of wood, 2 clamps)
Using paper and pencil (or a cool spreadsheet i made in excel if you are me), measure from the front edge to string and back edge to string of the wheel. take the difference. if the wheel towards the front of the car is a larger number than the back of the wheel measurement, then you have toe in on that wheel.
at the front of the car, loosen the lock nut (17mm open end wrench) and turn the tie rod adjustment arm to make your change (14mm wrench). roll the car back and forth and re-measure.
at the rear, you will need to loosen the bolt on the compensator arm and move it in or out depending on initial measurement.

I finished out with 1/16" toe out each side for total toe 1/8" out
rear finished 0 toe
total time 45 minutes
suction cup front driver fell off once, i licked it, never fell off again. Note to self, use water next time as it tasted like ***.

see pics below:
Dead Man Steering Wheel Holder:

Driver side front Suction cup:

Driver side read suction cup:

 

Looks good!

 

that's the same method that I used when I'm short of cash and always have work great for me!!

 

From what I've seen in the Helms the Integra is only 5mm wider TOTAL in front than the rear. Wouldn't that mean that you have to adjust for only 2.5mm on each side? I've been searching alignment and these are the specs that I found all over the internet. Here is one of the links. http://www.itrsport.com/specifications.html.

 

LOL! Sweet write up, this is pretty cool.

 

NM I think it is the JDM Itr that has the 5mm difference, and the US ITR is 10mm.

 

Looks good! Good thing Harbor freight and Joanne fabrics are right next door to one another here.

 

From what I found out the 98 spec JDM Type-R are 5mm(if not mistaken) wider in the rear.

here is the link

http://www.j-garage.com/honda/integra/98spec.htm

 

why did you taste the *** in the first place

 

my tongue slipped

 

Definitely a DIY I've always wanted info on! Nice work sir!!

 

good stuff

 

This is cool as hell, thumbs up to you Slap.

I always do my own alignments and I'm always experimenting with different suspension angles on my gs-r. I havent been tuning as much as i would like only because
the jack-stand method is so time consuming. With this little trick i should be able to
make changes and check measurements in like a half an hour.

 

The reason for the string is to make sure thrust angle is correct. Tread width can be compensated by moving the string in/out to make sure all 4 wheels are pointed forward.

 

I picked up a steering wheel holder from the Bay, it will replace the ghjetto clamp/wood method. I will set it up tomorrow and put up some pics. should make the setup slightly easier.
Stand by...

 

Cool. I can't wait to see the new set up!

 

Revised Steering wheel hold apparatus. 30$ on Ebay. Pretty straight forward setup. Put a towel in the seat to protect the fabric, really not necassary, but I am ****.

Pics:

 

I did a string alignment on my car before Expo9.

 

Good post -

I still use the jackstands + string box method.

Should also check out setting camber with sheets of vinyl flooring and a bucket + tubing with water. There are posts around HT or on Youtube on how to do it.

 

I like the new pics. Now everything looks super pro.

 

what if your bumpers or body isn't aligned properly? Wouldn't that affect the process?

 

It wouldn't matter, as you need to adjust the strings relative to the hub center anyway.

 

^^^ thanks man!!

 

Great info, always thought this was possible. Note to self,....DON'T LICK THE SUCTION CUP!

 

I'm still unsure on how to do this lol. I just paid $50 for an alignment and I had asked for specific settings for camber and toe. How do I know it was done to my specs? No idea. I would love to throw it up on the rack or check it this way to find out. If its off I'm going to be pissed.