Who has the best prices on type-R Engines? Basicly at some point in the next few months i'm looking to do a type-R B18c5 into my 94 LS.It is OBD1.
I have read quite a few threads and i'm sure I will continue to read more!

What are the best options year and ease of swapping wise(ecu) and power(hp) wise?(96-97 or 98+)
I'm looking for something that has power when I need it and is reliable and good on gas!! I daily drive the car and it's 99.9% stock and I would like to keep it that way, just swap the motor! I have also have other cars so this car can be down for a little, while I do the swap. Id rather do it proper and make it the closest to factory as possible.
1. What year type-R motor is the most desirable?
2.Who has the best prices?
3.What transmission?(I know everyone is gonna say type-R LSD but keep in mind I do a lot of long distance traveling at 80+ MPH so the LS FD ratio is good,but I dont want to lose the performance of a R or GSR 5spd) The best of both worlds would be the GSR with the LS FD Ratio!
4.What ECU should I use,I need this to be smog legal in colorado(OBD1) and would prefer a factory ECU(non tuned) and no check engine lights.
5.I dont mind collecting all the proper parts and doing this right.

I'm looking for opinions and people who have done this for the best possible swap while retaining a factory car(& LS insurance rates) with a type-R engine.
I'm asking for this help because sometimes it seems tempting to buy the whole swap(motor,tranny,ecu) but if, I have to replace these items anyway it's a waste and i'd rather piece it together and do it the way I want.
Thanx and all opinions and flaming are welcome!!

 

to be honest, type r engines are usually pricey...they go for about 4k if i'm not mistaken, that's not factoring in all the miscellaneous crap you will need when doing a swap. why not lsv? or b20v? you can save a lot of money...again that's just my opinion.

 

he wants a reliable engine and you suggest two time bombs, neat


type r engines sell for about 2500, full swaps are 3500

a type r takes about 1-2 days to completely swap. to do a b20v right you will spend a hell of a lot more hours, probably money, should sleeve the block and will require a custom ecu. hondata s100 is $200, obd1 ecu is 150 and a tune is 300, just in that we;re at 650 and we haven't even looked at a core to start building

 

lsv and b20v can be reliable if you build them the right way, but if you dont..ya they are time bombs

 

by the way, no obd1 ecu will work with this engine, you can however have a hondata s100 installed on a obd1 gsr ecu and run flawless. plan b is running the jdm ecu you receive but it will require a 1-2a harness and still won't scan on a scan tool

 

I agree that would be the best thing to do.

Also does anybody know where i can find the ecu for a 2001 type r? I believe its the 37820-P73-A04... i just want the stock one

 

hey genius you don't have to sleeve a b20. i have a b20v in my integra and this has been incredibly reliable. my job involved driving my vehicle all around town averaging around 100+ miles each day. in 2 months i put over 4k miles on this car without a single problem other than changing the o-rings on the water pipe. and yes from time to time i would pop vtec. i would get anywhere from 26-28mpg. i ran a chipped ecu and it ran fine, no cel's or anything like that. ticking time bomb? have you ever ran a well built lsv or b20v? i don't think so. your the type that says b20v sleeves are weak and crack if you stare at them. a well built b20v will last you a very long time. my car has had this engine well over a year without any issues.

 

run it at the track at 8000+ for multiple sessions and get back to me how well it's working after a year

what i am saying is the type r is a much more solid engine than a stock blocked b20v or lsv. it's gram balanced from the factory and the b18c rods are much much stronger.

the other problem with random parts builds is you spend a lot of money doing one right. if you assemble random parts you basically have a used engine from multiple and questionable sources. most the time guys on here to b20v and lsv for a couple of reasons. b20v can be a cheap way to make power but you do so at the cost of reliability unless you spend money. lsv is often done because a guy buys an ls, wanted a gsr and doesn't have the cash to do a gsr swap. so what happens? he buys a craigslist vtec head, slaps it on and run it on god knows what ecu, then posts on ht about how bad *** it is

 

i would also like to see a stock type r engine survive 8k rpm at the track for 1 year. highly doubt any stock engine can take the type of abuse without mods...i'm sure it's a solid engine but as i mentioned before i highly doubt it can take that abuse and survive.

 

I personally own an ITR motor and agree with you (being that its an amazing motor that was meant to rev and proven to be reliable), but if built right a B20/LS VTEC engine can be a fun build. If built with the correct parts and if tuned properly they can make awesome power and still be reliable.

 

sure they can, it's just that you'll probably spend more money and require a higher knowledge base to make it work.


as for the stock itr and what it can survive....a LOT. as long as the oil and water temps are maintained that little engine can have the holy **** spun out of it and live to go another day.

i'm seriously not an itr fanboi but that engine really can take a serious amount of abuse in stock form.

 

i've never beat the **** out of an itr so i wouldn't know...haha.

 

They are a "God like" engine from the factory lol

 

I say Type R engine if you have the funds. I personally think that Type R engines are slightly overrated and would go with a GSR engine. The only difference is like 15hp ant the crank. Or a GSR block and a B16 head, you get poor mans R. To have a LSV built right and handle the abuse every single day you are looking to spend a LOT of money. I am currently building a LSV for serious boost, and the botom end alone cost me over $5000!!! Thats not including oil pump, pan, and other crap. I say if you have money get the Type R engine, if a little tight on money get the GSR engine. Either one is a awesome donor.

 

the gsr itr debate comes down to 20hp

it's about $1800 to the door for a gsr engine or 2500 for the itr

with the itr you get, itr cams $300 value, itr TB $150 value, itr manifold $100 value, itr header $150-300 value and more compression. if you're boosting the car it would be real easy to argue the gsr. staying NA you'll spend at least $700 going after 20hp. you could, in theory drop blox C's in a gsr with the right VT and tune it, only be out maybe $500 more than the itr and out power it, BUT, the aggressive cams often will wear a VT in around 40k miles

 

$1800 for a GSR engine??? Holy ****, in Ohio you can get a whole GSR swap for $1200 to$1800. (full engine, trans, axles, wiring, ECU.....) Type R swap here maxes out at $3000

 

which japaneese importer has deals like this?

 

^waiting for answer

 

You guys should listen to Idrivesideways, he's totally correct.

I had a LS/VTEC that was built like a tank. ACL bearings, ARP studs, forged rods, forged pistons, clayed motor, champhered and knife edged crank, etc. It lasted about 2 years, maybe 15k miles.

They blow up on everyone for a reason. Now, you can come in here and say "oh they're great if you build them right!" No, they're not. They make great torque and are a great "bang-for-the-buck" motor, but if you are looking for something reliable, a frankenstein motor is not it. They can make far more power for less money than a GSR/ITR, but when you factor in the cost of replacing it every year or 2, it's not all that cheap. I don't feel like going into the reasons they suck, but trust me, I know why. And it's not the sleeves. It has a lot more to do with oil holes, piston squirters, and the headgasket. Don't let anyone confuse you with that rod/stoke BS.

TLDR - Buy an ITR swap and call it a day

 

Its not just importers, its local people selling them. I personally buy salvaged Integra GSR's, Type R's, Civic Si's, and if the car is not worth fixing I part it out. A low milage (50K) GSR swap I sell for $1800, higher milage sells for less. I just sold a GSR long block the other day that needed new rings for $450. Everyone down here is all hyped up on K swaps, so they buy them at retarded prices ($5000 to $8000), then they spend a ton of money to fit them and make them work. Well I can buy a whole RSX-S 6spd with K20, wrecked, for under $5000, thats for the whole car, not just the swap.

Check out the links:
Iaai.com
Copart.com

 

wtf are you talking about. u dont think a type r can withstand 8k abuse. if you said 10k then i would agree. 9200rpm all day long on stock internals, boosted no less and yes more than a year. wow. Why do u even have a Honda fking gas milage. Ok i admit i like the type r's.

 

8k+ Rev-wise is nothing for an ITR. They were balanced and built to rev. They could easily withstand over a year of abuse.

 

i have never seen a 50k mile usdm gsr swap. i've seen people trying to pass off gsr swaps and saying they have 50k.

you're talking about apples and oranges. you're buying unknowns and the op is after an engine that's taken out of a car and ready to go. while not all japaneese motors have 40k on them they almost always will be a LOT lower than a similar usdm car.

 

$2500-$3500, give JDMSPEEDWORX a call they might have some in stock

 

Wow, this is one of the most ignorant posts I've seen on here in a while.

I have a 2001 ITR. The drivetrain is bone stock and all original, and has never had any problems. It has 10,000 actual track miles, which equates to something like 50-75 two-day track events. And on the track, the key to driving fast is to keep it in the lowest gear possible at all times, which means it's always in the upper end of the rev band.