Ok Im in the process of putting the timing belt back on and trying to get everything lined up. I have the cams all lined up pointing up. But when I get the belt all right and tight and the crank pully back on it looks to be a little off with the marking on the cover. I have done this 3times now. Once where it was alittle before TDC and again same distance after TDC. Before I put the belt on the crank is lined up at TDC. Also I know for a fact cause without the belt I have put the cover on and crank pully to verify it.

Is there something I am doing wrong?? This is the 1st time I have ever really done a timing belt on any car.

Click images for larger size

 

Well first off your cam gears are WAY off. Position the cam gears so that the little white hash marks point directly towards each other, as well as the UP arrows pointing up. The arrows won't be exactly at 90 degrees up from the floor, just in the general up direction, but those hash marks must be exactly aligned.

Also, when installing the timing belt over the gears, you MUST pull it tight on the exhaust side and put it over the exhaust cam gear first. Otherwise if you put it over the intake cam gear first, it's possible to pull it too much where the tensioner pulley is and you'll end up installing it 1 or 2 teeth off.

Try it again and let us know.

 

Patrick, when you put the timing belt on, what is the correct order? When I did mine, I tried to get all the slack on the tensioner, so I did this ... i think

crank, exhaust, intake, tensioner/water pump.

To the original poster, just as Patrick said, line the hash marks next to each other and the crank off of the pointer on the block, not the plastic. Well, I'd do it off the pointer on the block ... anyways, good luck

 

Ok well I wont be able to work on it but hopefully my bro can try this out. I never noticed the 2 white marks on the cam gears. Also never noticed any markings with the cover off for the crank gear.

We were puttig it on the exhaust gear 1st then teh intake gear.

 

look at all the slack in the t-belt in the third pic. when you pull that exhaust side cam tight, the gears will be aligned. If you think you may have it, use your tire tool to run the crank pulley through 6 full rotations. If you feel any resistance (make sure you pull the spark plugs) it could be the valves hitting the pistons. After you go through one rotation, everything should line up. good luck

 

The Helms manual lists the order as: crank > tensioner > water pump > exhaust gear > intake gear

I did mine this way and had no problems getting it all lined up with no excessive slack. It also helps to stretch the tensioner and spring to all the way loose, then after installing, tension it as specified.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well first off your cam gears are WAY off. Position the cam gears so that the little white hash marks point directly towards each other, as well as the UP arrows pointing up. The arrows won't be exactly at 90 degrees up from the floor, just in the general up direction, but those hash marks must be exactly aligned.

Also, when installing the timing belt over the gears, you MUST pull it tight on the exhaust side and put it over the exhaust cam gear first. Otherwise if you put it over the intake cam gear first, it's possible to pull it too much where the tensioner pulley is and you'll end up installing it 1 or 2 teeth off.

Try it again and let us know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Yep, looks like you're off by a tooth.

 

i just did this yesterday.

the sequence IS crank --&gt; tensioner --&gt; water pump --&gt; exhaust cam --&gt; intake cam

as stated, start with the crank on TDC for #1, and both tick marks on the cam gears pointing directly at each other.

check the manual, but iirc, the procedure is to leave the tensioner bolt loose 1/2 turn so the pulley can still move. turn crank 4 times back to TDC on #1. check to see if tick marks are still pointing at each other. you can be 1/16 of a degree off or so, and it'll be fine. if everything is lined up acceptably, torque the tensioner bolt, and turn crank 4 more times. if everything is still lined up, you're good to start putting everything back together.

on the topic of the accuracy of the cam gear tick marks:
whatever ninny did the timing belt last on my car wasn't very accurate. it wasn't a full tooth off, but the marks were not acceptably lined up to my standards. after replacing the timing belt and getting everything timed much more accurately, the ECU threw code 41; O2 sensor. my friend that was helping me (Type-R owner) determined that since we fixed the intake cam timing, the engine was seeing much more air than before, and since the ECU wasn't reset, wasn't running the appropriate A/F mixture. we reset the ECU and the code hasn't come back.

in my opinion, the car pulls to redline smoother, and sounds more aggressive from 7-8k rpm. which makes sense, because the valves were opening and closing too early on the previous setting. so your car will run if you don't have it set JUST right, but the overall performance of the car will not be as good.

 

Some great info I am getting here. I dont have a manuel for the car yet cause I havent found one in the stores. I wish I would have posted this stuff up on Saturday cause I have to prolly wait till Friday to do all this stuff. But now I feel that I can get everything lined up right and correctly.

Do you because Im off at the cam and also that I didnt really put it on crank&gt;tensioner&gt;h20 pump could be why it is off at the crank??

 

if you don't use the right sequence you're odds of getting it right are about as good as winning the lottery.

 

I usually take a string and stretch it across the cam pullys to ensure proper alignment. However, the cams always seem to want to shift slightly once aligned. To compensate, I tighten the number 4 tappet screws slightly to hold the cams in the correct orientation. Installing the belt is much easier after this step.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I usually take a string and stretch it across the cam pullys to ensure proper alignment. However, the cams always seem to want to shift slightly once aligned. To compensate, I tighten the number 4 tappet screws slightly to hold the cams in the correct orientation. Installing the belt is much easier after this step.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No need to do that, there are holes in the camshaft rail and the camshaft itself which line up when #1 is at TDC. Just drop a punch or phllips head screwdriver into the hole on each camshaft and they won't move. Works GREAT for loosening and torquing the cam gear bolts.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the manual, but iirc, the procedure is to leave the tensioner bolt loose 1/2 turn so the pulley can still move. turn crank 4 times back to TDC on #1. check to see if tick marks are still pointing at each other. you can be 1/16 of a degree off or so, and it'll be fine. if everything is lined up acceptably, torque the tensioner bolt, and turn crank 4 more times. if everything is still lined up, you're good to start putting everything back together.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

This isn't the correct procedure for tensioning the belt. After installing the belt, let the tensioner pulley put tension on the belt, then snug the bolt down. Rotate the crankshaft 5-6 rotations and bring #1 back to TDC. Loosen the tensioner bolt by 180 degrees only. Rotate the crankshaft again by 3 teeth on the cam gears, and then tighten the tensioner bolt to the specified torque. This is how the Helm's manual says to do it, it's what I did, and I haven't had any problems. My car runs GREAT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cabby89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok well I wont be able to work on it but hopefully my bro can try this out. I never noticed the 2 white marks on the cam gears. Also never noticed any markings with the cover off for the crank gear.

We were puttig it on the exhaust gear 1st then teh intake gear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im sure youve figured this out by now, but incase anyone comes across this in a search--

the timing mark for TDC on the crank is on the oil pump, and is at roughly 10 o'clock. If your front seal is leaking as mine was, theres gonna be a bunch of grease covering the mark.. but i assure you its there.

 

Anyone know the torque specs for the tensioner bolt??

 

I think it's 50-something, 54 or 56 maybe.

 

OK so I got the lines on the cams lined up correct I believe but the intake cam isnt exactly pointed straight up. Also even though the lines are across from each other I believe I think they can be moved 1 notch up and be closer. THey seem to be in the same position lined up as in this pic http://img.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg with the intake cam moved down to match the exhaust cam. Does this mean I should move them up and make them line up more in the center?

 

id loosen the tension on the belt... pull the belt off the gears and reset your cam gears...when i did mine i got a ruler and put it on the tick marks and if its right it will be inline with the tick marks on the outside of the cam gears... there is 2 tick marks on each cam gear.. then do what patrick said with the screw drivers in the cams to put the belt back on.. worked for me... good luck

 

The UP arrows do NOT point exactly straight up. The tick marks should be as close to each other as possible. So in that pic if you rotate the intake cam counterclockwise by about 1/2 tooth, and rotate the exhaust cam by about 1 tooth, they should then line up. Also notice there are tick marks 180 degrees around on the other side of each gear. So if you are unsure, take a ruler and make sure all 4 marks line up all the way across.

 

YOu guys were the biggest help

I got it started and seems fine but only ran it for a few seconds cause I didnt have the alternator hooked up. So excited and now I have to go to work but hopefullyh I can get it all back together tonight and maybe get it all timed tomorrow.

Anyone have advice for timing the car? I need to get a gun and it will be my 1st time but I think I kinda know.

 

so no bent valves?! non interference engine it is! arguement settled. what model is your integra? i hope it's a gsr - and hopefully if my belt breaks it'll turn out the same.

 

Nopse LS, technically everybody says it is an intereference motor but I think some get real lucky. I havent driven it but it seemed to rev up fine.

ANyone know hte torque specs for the crank pully bolt?

 

that little bastard bolt needs to be cranked to 130 foot foot pounds.. good luck

 

Sorry not to steal anything from this thread but everyone here seems to know A Lot. I was wondering if its ok to put on a type-r timing belt on a gsr. Found it really cheap and was wondering if its compatable. tanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Helms manual lists the order as: crank &gt; tensioner &gt; water pump &gt; exhaust gear &gt; intake gear

I did mine this way and had no problems getting it all lined up with no excessive slack. It also helps to stretch the tensioner and spring to all the way loose, then after installing, tension it as specified.</TD></TR></TABLE>