At idle I have a really strange issue, what'll happen is the idle(1.2K) will drop to 7-800 but it sounds choppy at first I thought misfire but there is no cel for it. I've cleaned it countless times no change TB is a S2:70mm intake is a pw:jdm and ITM is S2. I've bleed the coolant sys so many times. the thing is as SOON as you give it the slightest bit of gas all is good.....clueless on this will post vid tomorrow. off the bat tho will any obd1 integra IACV work ?

 

bump, this Is a REAL pita.

 

some IACV has a different bolt patterns,


If I recall, the difference between the 2 is either vtec and non vetc, or it's ITR and non ITR. Both have the same inner workings just a different spot for the 2nd bolt.

 

engine at operating temp, disconnect the iacv connector.
what does it idle at then?

 

yes found that the hard way my junk yard is an hour away going to be hard to find one "locally".

does it the worst at op temp it's seems pretty normal anytime while warming up. idle at operating temp is 850-900 rpm's.

 

with the iacv disconnected, at operating, what does it idle at?

 

oops still tired, 300-400 but im unable to "set the idle" the way the "DIY idle adjustment" shows as the idle would be something like 1.5K(have tried before). no vac leaks have double checked the screen on the iacv is a little pushed it but nothing that should affect this,new plugs,wires all that. all injectors pulse as they should even when the idle starts dropping

 

the idle should be at 500rpm w/iacv disconnected
why can't you adjust it?

 

if I turn it to where the "diy" says(1-200 off) it goes to something like 1.5K no vac leaks car dies instantly when I put my hand over the TB. any idea on the injectors ? good spark, all pulsing even when it drops fuel pressure @42 psi. full ign sys tune up. also on a cold morning i'll start the car blip the throttle and the RPM's will drop to 5-600 then rise back up. but the low rough idle likes to come about when the car is at operating temp

 

not sure what the "diy" is you're speaking of, but it sounds wrong. factory spec is approx. 500rpm/ iacv disconnected. iacv connected, should rise back up to 750 approx.
so are you saying with the iacv disconnected, you lowered the idle to approx. 550-650rpm? and when you reconnect it, idle shoots back up to 1500rpm?

 

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...peed-gen3.html. I always recommend it to ppl. but a high idle doesn't bug me so much as this issue. question if you pull the plug wire it should throw a misfire code no ? my 99dx does when I do, however my teg doesn't so im really not sure if it's a miss or just really lumpy it goes up and down by 4-500 rpms when it happens

 

i don't really agree with that write up. the idle should not drop by 100rpm. it should sit at 500 rpm, roughly.

to answer your question, it's because your civ is obd2. teg is obd1. huge difference in emissions precautions

 

does it the worst when at operating temp. haven't seen it do it once when warming up what it will do it'll be at 1.2K idle then drop down to 900(still ok) at a light then randomly drop by 400 rpm's and sound shitty. give it a bit of gas it's fine let off gas goes shitty again any ideas ?? then all's good when I start driving this is only when the car is stationary.

 

well it's clearly an iac issue. by that, i don't necessarily mean the valve
but you didn't answer my question; what does the idle sit at when you have the iacv disconnected? operating temp

 

4-500 area("bobs" whilst sitting there) while unplugged

 

ok. and it shoots back up to 1500 rpm with it connected?
if so, check your iacv connector carefully. look closely at the pins. inspect the iacv wiring to the ecm. if it all looks good, try another iacv. and if that doesn't do it, try and obtain an ecm. just for test if you can

 

could be an 02 sensor.

 

currently i have rpm dropping really low and jump back up. (normal engine temp). I cleaned iacv, no effect at all. haha

I will do tune up soon, see if it helps. (plugs, wires, fuel filter) currently on 89k with all stock parts. lol

 

won't usually cause a high idle though. easy enough to cancel out. op, just disconnect the o2 and see if it makes any difference

 

well 900 isn't to high. reason is we set the plate stop screw a bit "too open". also last night it was cold started car just fine blipped throttle rpms dropped to 400 then rose back to 1.2K did it twice more that sooths out after a bit. to reconfirm the car NEVER does it on a cold engine. today it's warm/hot out was doing it real badly at ever damn light will unplug o2 but I don't see how that would cause this only when stationary.

update:tried w/o o2 still does it.

 

Swapped back to my old(er) plugs and oem wires still relevant. I can't tell if it's actually "missing" as if I pull the plug wire it will truly miss and that's not exactly what this sounds like is there such a thing as a half/almost miss ?

 

bump anyone ? this is such an odd problem

 

Any time the throttle plate is moved, the tps needs recalibrated to "re-zero" for idle(.47-.48v 4.5 wot)

 

TPS was calibrated after I moved the plate. Theory: weak coil is it harder to produce spark at idle then vs 2K+ RPM's ? as this only happens at idle also the new plug wires I have got oil in the part that goes to the plug. but when I tried the original plug wires it still did it different plugs also.

no clue how old(or new that coil is)

 

The bolt patterns are for OBD0 vs OBD1 actually, though either one will work and seal fine with just the one bolt.

The reason why I know is I have an obd0 integra, and pulled my IACV off an OBD1 da integra.

The big difference is OBD0/1 to OBD2. OBD2 IACV have 3 wires, and have a wider control range (the reason why OBD2 cars don't use the FITV)