Shakey front end
My front end lately has shook violently latey .. and i have on clue why
I've recently just did both front wheel bearings and my passanger side CV joint,
now when i drive regular its fine, but when i get on it say 60mph+ and from Vtec - 9700rpms, the front end shakes like mad..
I know i dont , but i've check to see if i have tire seperation , there's none...
The last time my front end shook like this, i split my passanger cv joint in two racing a srt-4 from a dig
but i thought changing those things would make it go away is there something i should look for?? I have jacked it up yet to try and move each tire side to side, but everything's tight and looks in order, could my driver side possible be going out now?
I've recently just did both front wheel bearings and my passanger side CV joint,
now when i drive regular its fine, but when i get on it say 60mph+ and from Vtec - 9700rpms, the front end shakes like mad..
I know i dont , but i've check to see if i have tire seperation , there's none...
The last time my front end shook like this, i split my passanger cv joint in two racing a srt-4 from a dig
but i thought changing those things would make it go away is there something i should look for?? I have jacked it up yet to try and move each tire side to side, but everything's tight and looks in order, could my driver side possible be going out now?
check your bushing, bent arms, loose shock, blown shocks, could be a lot of things,
a friend of mine he endlink on his swaybar broke and it felt like shet.
a friend of mine he endlink on his swaybar broke and it felt like shet.
Alot..enough to rev it that high but a break down is
block is a 97 usdm b18c5 block, completely stock..Never been touched, still has the stock crosshatching and honing in it..motors been very well taken care of
95 jdm b18c head, fully ripped apart and everything is new..
My own port/polish on it
i port matched my skunk2 intake manifold to the head, i'm running a crower FULL RACE valvetrain, the whole nine, skunk2 stage 2 cams, BC cam gears, ferra SS high compression valves(int/Exh) sparks 4-1 race header 2.5 collector 1.75primaries, 2.5 tsudo N1 catback which i love, custom catchcan, chipped p28 on crome pro by me
cam gears aren't tuned in fully but the exhaust is on +2 and the intake is on +1
Ground kit, basically all ur major bolt ons and some other tids
running a s80 tranny, no lsd
1layer spoon hg, comp ratio is around 11.6~.8 somewhere around that each cyl holds 260psi in Compression test.
thats besides the point...When my car last did this retarded crap, it shooke and broke..does it sound like an axle again..
I rev that high only because
1) on my street tune, the high the rpm goes, the more fuel it wants..
2) on my last dyno with my cranes set at 0/0 this car stopped making power around 8300rpms, these stage2's are ..much bigger then my old cranes, which fyi, i snapped in half..
so i know i'm making more power over all and i'm able to rev it higher, i did a baseline with them at 0/0 and got 201whp with the gears set at 0/0 on my crane stage 2 tune, that dyno was without tuning or touching anything, the car started to dip around 9100, which is where i had my recent redline at 9400rpms..i just raised it really for ***** and giggles.
I've had this same motor for about 3 years..been reving to 9100+ for 3 years on the same valvetrain and everything, this year, around feb is when i dropped all my valves, which it went a big change...new cams, the whole nine, and when i saw the condition of the block i was indeed impressed / i knew what i was doing..the pistons were still shiney, its amazing what a good tune and afr ratio combo can do to a life of a motor that u beat the hell out of every other weekend.
block is a 97 usdm b18c5 block, completely stock..Never been touched, still has the stock crosshatching and honing in it..motors been very well taken care of
95 jdm b18c head, fully ripped apart and everything is new..
My own port/polish on it
i port matched my skunk2 intake manifold to the head, i'm running a crower FULL RACE valvetrain, the whole nine, skunk2 stage 2 cams, BC cam gears, ferra SS high compression valves(int/Exh) sparks 4-1 race header 2.5 collector 1.75primaries, 2.5 tsudo N1 catback which i love, custom catchcan, chipped p28 on crome pro by me
cam gears aren't tuned in fully but the exhaust is on +2 and the intake is on +1
Ground kit, basically all ur major bolt ons and some other tids
running a s80 tranny, no lsd

1layer spoon hg, comp ratio is around 11.6~.8 somewhere around that each cyl holds 260psi in Compression test.
thats besides the point...When my car last did this retarded crap, it shooke and broke..does it sound like an axle again..
I rev that high only because
1) on my street tune, the high the rpm goes, the more fuel it wants..
2) on my last dyno with my cranes set at 0/0 this car stopped making power around 8300rpms, these stage2's are ..much bigger then my old cranes, which fyi, i snapped in half..
so i know i'm making more power over all and i'm able to rev it higher, i did a baseline with them at 0/0 and got 201whp with the gears set at 0/0 on my crane stage 2 tune, that dyno was without tuning or touching anything, the car started to dip around 9100, which is where i had my recent redline at 9400rpms..i just raised it really for ***** and giggles.
I've had this same motor for about 3 years..been reving to 9100+ for 3 years on the same valvetrain and everything, this year, around feb is when i dropped all my valves, which it went a big change...new cams, the whole nine, and when i saw the condition of the block i was indeed impressed / i knew what i was doing..the pistons were still shiney, its amazing what a good tune and afr ratio combo can do to a life of a motor that u beat the hell out of every other weekend.
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no this is not the problem...its deff. the CV joint
no this is not the problem...its deff. the CV joint
even at ahard accel it shakes hard, and when i drive easy on it it somewhat stops but it doesn't do it under 50mph~ and under easy load, however on heavy load this thing shakes likea ****.
I replaced the passanger, should i just go ahead and replace the driver side just for the hell of it??? could that be the problem or something else i mean everything else seems fine, I had a shop put on the wheel bearings for me because i couldn't press them on, and they said they took a look at the front part of the car and everything seemed to be fine..
these weren't idiots neither..they did my car within 2 hours of getting there and it only cost 170 bucks for both sides..<3 asian shops lol..
these weren't idiots neither..they did my car within 2 hours of getting there and it only cost 170 bucks for both sides..<3 asian shops lol..
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,164
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
What do you mean for the hell of it? That's obviously the problem.
When I found my inner CV boots torn on my original axles, I replaced both of them with reman's, and boom, nasty vibrations. I didn't even try to figure out which one it was or if it was both, I just took them both back off and went and got another pair. Unfortunately I ended up repeating that process THREE times before getting a good set that didn't vibrate.
So if you put a reman. axle on your passenger side, that one could very well be the problem.
When I found my inner CV boots torn on my original axles, I replaced both of them with reman's, and boom, nasty vibrations. I didn't even try to figure out which one it was or if it was both, I just took them both back off and went and got another pair. Unfortunately I ended up repeating that process THREE times before getting a good set that didn't vibrate.

So if you put a reman. axle on your passenger side, that one could very well be the problem.
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