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Well today was spun a bearing, so i got rod knock now, and i had to drive on it a little so i think it *** it up a little more. I was doing some hard mountain driving, and after i took this turn really hard and after that then it started. It is can be possible if i when took the turn the oil moved all the way on 1 side of the pan and i get no oil?
Your oil was probably low. It would be extremely hard to do that with a full pan of oil.
How low was the oil level?
After all that happened i turned off the car. I then checked the oil, it was low, but it was still above the bottom hole on the dipstick. So it was low but not like there was not even oil on the dipstick.
I just want to know, so even for lets say 1 second or 2 second, if the oil move away from the oil pickup, and the motor is running with no oil for 1 or 2 seconds it can cause bad things to happen that fast?!!
XD That was the best Knock Knock joke I've heard in years!
Just make sure it's a spun bearing before you go buying parts. I've had many odd noises make me think rod knock before and it wasn't.
Im 95 % sure it is a spun bearing and i have rod knock. When i turn on my car it turns on, then you hear a sound like someone is taking a hammer and hitting the floor, and the sound is consistent to, not on and off. As the rpms go up to knocking sound goes up to.
Im only 95 % sure because i never ran into this problem before. So the other 5 % is to give me some lee way.
And peopel are saying the crank is going to be phucked up, is that the case you think?
Its a b18c5 from ITR, so a new ITR crank = going to be a fortune.
Going to pull my motor anyway and begin re building the entire car. Will make a build thread once I start tomorrow.
A Gsr crank is lighter cause the ITR as full counterweight, there always thread popping on here claiming they are shot penned from the company making more difference in weight also but I aint sure of that.
They do have oversize bearing for a reason if you cant find a new one.
8000 RPM means the engine is spinning via violent explosions at 133.33 times per second.
Figure 2 seconds is 266 rotations.
266 rotations with no oil film. Bearings are soft. Pressures and speeds are high. Everything is tolerance sensitive.
Rod knock.
If you spun a ROD bearing, a new crank is viable. If you spun a MAIN bearing, you're probably best off to buy a block.
Sucks because ITR's are worth so much more with a matching numbers engine.
Yeah i know! Why is spinning a main bearing worse than spinning a rod bearing? And lets say when i take it apart and check the crank and its bad. Do you think i should buy a ls or b20 crank? How will that effect how high i can rev.
I was reading people said the ITR crank has more weight to balacnce at high rpm, NOW i am sad because i hope i can re use the crank !
If you buy a longer stroke crank, you'll may to either alter the rods to be shorter or the buy pistons that don't rise as high.
Buy an ITR crank or buy an ITR long block. That would be my recommendation. For a lot of reasons. Simplicity and function being the main 2.
Main bearings are fastened to the block. Rod bearings are fastened to the rods. A rod bearing requires a new/reworked crank and a new rod/bearing. A spun main bearing will usually damage the block.
[QUOTE=B serious;49901954]It's an ITR (chassis).[/QUOTE
It will still work, its just a cheaper solution to buying other B series short block. but if he's worried about emission or reff like we do here in C.A then i understand. theres tons of B20 vtec motors running around and there so cheap but its just my opinion.
It will still work, its just a cheaper solution to buying other B series short block. but if he's worried about emission or reff like we do here in C.A then i understand. theres tons of B20 vtec motors running around and there so cheap but its just my opinion.
I wouldn't want a stock B20 bottom end in my ITR. Buzzkill.
I wouldn't want a stock B20 bottom end in my ITR. Buzzkill.
Unless he mentioned he had an ITR in a different thread, it looks like he said it's a swap From an ITR.
Also, dunno why he'd be posting in the non-itr section if he actually had one.
And if you drove the car further after the fact of having knock, your crank and more than likely fuxxored.
You can check your compression to know for sure, unless you just pull the pan.
Unless he mentioned he had an ITR in a different thread, it looks like he said it's a swap From an ITR.
Also, dunno why he'd be posting in the non-itr section if he actually had one.
And if you drove the car further after the fact of having knock, your crank and more than likely fuxxored.
You can check your compression to know for sure, unless you just pull the pan.
Yes and i had to drive it after it started knocking, just had to because of the location.
If any of you are familiar with NJ, i was in North West Jersey near PA. So i was broken down on this back road in the country somewhere, all that was around was a farm and a golf course. Someone stopped by to ask if we were ok, and it turns out that golf course belongs to donald trump.
So i couldn't get it towed home right away, i had to go home first get some documents then i could get it towed. So then my friends brother came, I couldn't leave the car on the side of the road, people that stopped by asking if we wer good, i asked if there was a neighborhood somewhere, they said not for a few miles .
All that was around was a entrance to a farm. So i had to turn on the car, chit knocking like crazy, then take my baby off roading lol.
Chit was rediculous if you were passing by and see what i was doing lol
Yeah, that's pretty much done. If you can catch your nail in it, then it needs work.
And normally when they need work, they're too far gone.
If everything else is fine, just get a new crank and rods/pistons.
Yeah i think i will do that, you think i should over bore it the sleeves.
Also are you familiar with the connecting rod caps like which way they face? Because i noticed before i took it apart that
Connecting rod caps 4,3,2 are facing toward the timing belt, and connecting rod for cylinder 1, the cap is facing toward the flywheel, is it like this stock? Im just curious, i kept everything in order the way it was
Yeah i think i will do that, you think i should over bore it the sleeves.
Also are you familiar with the connecting rod caps like which way they face? Because i noticed before i took it apart that
Connecting rod caps 4,3,2 are facing toward the timing belt, and connecting rod for cylinder 1, the cap is facing toward the flywheel, is it like this stock? Im just curious, i kept everything in order the way it was
I would have to go look at one of the blocks I have outside, I'm not sure.
You can essentially do an "ls/vtec" with just the ls crank in the type-r block.
Hello I have a Acura Integra 1997 with B20b motor and GSR tranny , while driving yesterday morning I started hearing a knocking noise from the motor and the closer I got home the louder it sounded it started driving really slow back home and when I parked I started reving up the motor trying to find were the knocking was coming from after doing that my motor made one final noise and never started back up . Help Me !!!!!!!!!
Rod knock?
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