type r head is = b16 -- just type r haS different internals and factory port and polish.

--- I personally, would take the gsr head over a type r or b16 head. get a gsr head and get a port polish and a valve job. and you will produce some good power from it.

ahh alright i was looking for b16 or b16c1 head that is pretapped

Re: (mcyang87)
 

gsr is much cheaper than a ITR head!
So with less money you can do more to a gsr head
alot of peeps do run the B16 head though.

ahhh that what i want something for cheap...will the gsr head pull hard on the top end as b16?

b16 bare head vs type r bare head

type r is still better because of factory port and polish.

if you want cheapest, get a b16 head.

Cheapest complete head. from lowest to highest

B16 (cheapest)
B18c1
B18c5 Type R (expensive)

b16 head v the gsr

gsr is still better, it has better valve train and larger intakes and exhaust ports.

b16 is not a bad head at all, but if you have the money buy the b18c5 head. if not, dont worry. gsr or b16 head will do just fine.

a b16 on air ratios and the intake and echuast ports can be = to the gsr. just you will need a valve job and a port and polish to get to it. I say GSR head with 3-5 aangle valve job w/ port polish. you will need to do nothing to it then. Maybe upgrade the cam gears and valvetrain later on when you get more into depth tuning.

Re: (mcyang87)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mcyang87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahhh that what i want something for cheap...will the gsr head pull hard on the top end as b16?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need to do a lot of research.

Re: (AWD Terror)
 

yea cheap = reliable when doing a ls/v

Re: (GRAF-FITI)
 

^^^^^^^^you're absolutly right!^^^^^^^^^^^^^

If you don't have the funds to do this build you should really be patient as it really needs to be buit properly in order for it to be reliable.

Pick two of the three:
Cheap - Reliable - Fast

Re: Question on LS/VTEC conversion kit (mcyang87)
 

i would do it but i heard that ls/vtec is hard as shit to build

Re: Question on LS/VTEC conversion kit (integtegluver)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integtegluver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would do it but i heard that ls/vtec is hard as shit to build</TD></TR></TABLE>

--- Not really "hard" to do. It's just being prepared and having everything at hand. Just like building any other motor, just need to have everything planned out and prepped rdy to go.

ahhh i c thanks guy

Don't listen to everything you hear. I built one and it's peppy as hell. I still need to street tune it but if you get some eagle rods they will have the arp rod bolts on them. You can't use the eagle rods with factory oem pistons because the forged pistons are floatin wrist pins and the oem are pressed fit. The only tough part i had was the plugging up the oil galley. I messed it up but fixed it and put some sealant on it to make sure it didn't like. With the headgasket. Everyone is right about the headgasket. Use the LS. I"ve used the b16s on my gsr head and it doesn't mate. Just research for awhile till you have enough money to spend on it. Total spent including doing the headwork myself and assembling the bottom end,also getting the block bored and the head resurfaced cost me around 2,500 not including the tools i had to get. It's a good learning experience and if it's your first time. Take it slow

using the stock OEM LS headgasket would be probably my best bet then the golden eagle one?

Yeah. Because the oil is drainin the thru the passages from a gsr head to block but the block galleys are different on the ls. So for the oil to channel better you need the LS headgaskets path

i see now thanks

Re: (mcyang87)
 

i know but if all the internals from rods to crank to pistons to everything were all type r would i have a type r with a 1797 ccor an ls displacement of 1834cc

Re: (NAmodified)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAmodified &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know but if all the internals from rods to crank to pistons to everything were all type r would i have a type r with a 1797 ccor an ls displacement of 1834cc</TD></TR></TABLE>

--- if you had all type R internals, you would NOT have the 1834 displacment. i stated this earlier, that type R is higher compression, with longers rods and a shorter stroked crank. with that combination, it makes the displacment to 1797. LS block internals = 1834cc, GSR/ITR internals = 1797. And remember, ifyou have itr internals, you need the itr valve train or an aftermarket one.

Re: (Mfoehrkolb)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mfoehrkolb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

--- if you had all type R internals, you would NOT have the 1834 displacment. i stated this earlier, that type R is higher compression, with longers rods and a shorter stroked crank. with that combination, it makes the displacment to 1797. LS block internals = 1834cc, GSR/ITR internals = 1797. And remember, ifyou have itr internals, you need the itr valve train or an aftermarket one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok makes sense. thanks https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

hows the build going?