Question on LS/VTEC conversion kit
 

I found this kit for LS/Vtec and it for $259 im not sure if that shipped or not the website is
http://www.usedimportparts.net/lsvtecinfo.html
as anyone try out their kit before? and how was it? is it as good as golden eagle kit?

Re: Question on LS/VTEC conversion kit (mcyang87)
 

i would recommend golden eagle above anything else

just get the golden eagle kit. and buy some arp headstuds and rod bolts. then you will be good to go.


EDIT: i was also informed by someone on HT that when you buy a Ls.Vtec kit. they include a GSR Head gasket. I have a Golden eagle kit, and i just went out and bought a LS head gasket. To not even mess around witht hat. no way ima have a leak going on when freshly rebuilt. You can ask around or seatch, but be weary of the kits gasket.

alright i found a kit that included head bolt for 349 shipped is that a good deal?

what kind of headbolts?

Re: (Mfoehrkolb)
 

arp head bolt...but i think im gonna change route of ls/vtec cause i don't have enough money to build my bottom block...im on a tight budget of 1500 i think im gonna go with gsr engine and tranny i found one for dirty cheap...my bottom block as 195k on it...i don't know if it safe to run ls/vtec on it...i found all the requirement for the vtec head

Re: (mcyang87)
 

wow, i had my ls bottom end sleeved, bored, assembled, balanced, crank micropolished, new bearings, and type r oil pump for 2300 and that was including all the labor, parts, machine work and shipping my engine back and forth...

to build the bottom end decent enough shouldnt cost you that much... really all you would need to be ok is rods, bearings, rings, and maybe pistons... shouldnt cost you that much to get those few parts and have it assembled and balanced... if your not going turbo or for an insane amount of hp then you shouldnt spend that much on new parts for bottom end because you wont need that high of performance parts...

yeah...i was just planning to ls/vtec and then on the long run turbo it...but that isn't going to happen until i go to college and finish first....i just don't want my motor to blow up because of bad bottom block...i don't have that much cash to throw around :D

Re: (mcyang87)
 

if your not going turbo right away then just go get some oem rods, bearings, and rings so that they are new and stronger then you most likely pretty beat ones... wont cost you that much to get them and have installed...

Re: (ls19integra95)
 

oem rod, ring and bearing of LS or GSR?

Re: (mcyang87)
 

Ls.vTec done the CORRECT way. isn't cheap. If you go ls.vtec the weakest point int he motor are the connectin rod bolts. So your best bet if you go ls.vtec is to put new arp rod bolts, some new baearings and piston rings. arp headstuds and get a golden eagle kit. w/ a ls head gasket. then your good to go.

-- keep in mind. if you gsr block and head. gsr is 10.0:1 compression. W/ a shorter stroked crank.

quickly ill name some differences between the blocks if you don't know.

GSR: OEM block girdle, oil pumpers per cylinder, direct oil to head thru the block, 9mm connection rod bolts, cranks, stroke length, compression.

ls: 8mm connection rod bolts, longer stroked crank, lower compression. no oem block girdle, oil pumpers, oil jet.

alot of people block off the oil pumpers though to help build oil pressure. and block girdle is only neccsary @ higher rpms. not needed though.

i think thats about it. if anyone would like to add something or edit, go ahead. too lazy to look up stuff right now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

B18B1

* Non-VTEC
* Found in:
o 1994-2001 Acura Integra "RS/LS/GS" (DC4/DB7)
+ Displacement: 1834 cc
+ Compression: 9.2:1
+ Bore: 81 mm
+ Stroke: 89 mm


B18C1

* VTEC
* Found in:
o 1994-2001 Honda/Acura Integra GS-R (DC2 & DB8)
* Displacement: 1797 cm³
* Compression: 10.0:1
* Bore: 81 mm (3.189")
* Stroke: 87.2 mm (3.433")
* Rod Length: 137.9 mm (5.429")
* Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.58
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ahhh ok...i was thinking about getting all the requirement for the head...and run on that for awhile cause im on a tight budget of 1500....once i get enough money was gonna rebuild the bottom block is that still ok to run ls/vtec?

Re: (mcyang87)
 

you could just put the head on there using the golden eagle kit and just get a ecu and tune it, but your car should never see over 7k. If you do no work what so ever to the block and studs, you'll have to drive it just like an ls and not try to take it past 7k. If you ask me, thats hard to do because once you have vtec, it will keep pulling as the rpms get higher, 7k comes wayy sooner than you think and you will be tempted.

Re: (K2sInteg98)
 

well... im getting the ls/vtec conversion kit, ecu, tuning, vtec oil pump and water pump i should still not go over 7k?

as long as you get arp head studs and rod bolts. w/ a new ecu. you can go passed 7k. rod bolts are the main thing though. the stock ls get very weak and fail.

alright coo...that what i was going to get too :D thanks guys

Re: (mcyang87)
 

yeah even with the water pump and oil pump, you still cant revv past 7k. With the headstuds and rod bolts, you have more room to revv. So do the rod bolts and headstuds while everything is getting worked on and get it done at once so you dont have to pull everything out again to do it later.

30 bucks for rod bolts, and 100 maybe a bit more for some head studs. good to go.

Re: (Mfoehrkolb)
 

plus the cost to get the rod bolts pressed in.

you can do it yourself. just have to be patient.

i did mine and my friends myself. i forget the process, but just gotta do it right and take your time.

alright i take my time...but today i also went to look at my buddy 94 GSR motor too https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emsmile.gif

GO WITH THE LS/VTEC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Re: (integrag)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GO WITH THE LS/VTEC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

my cousin has the ls/vtec...he also said go with ls/vtec...i might just go ls/vtec https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emsmile.gif

you should. the headstuds and rod bolts. MUST. than rev that shit to the moon. and i suggest a p28 ecu.

is p28 better then like b16 or b18 ecu? don't that p28 have to be chipped?

obd1 p28 with step down (deping on your car year). will plug and play. If you look up ls.vtec builds, they say the b series vtec stock ecu tends to give the car a rouge idle, and some other minor problems and if you get p28 obd1, you can get it chipped as well. Me and all my friends use p28's on the ls.vtec builds and always worked wonders.

ahhh i see...it a good thing p28 is obd1 cause i have a 94 integra :D

Re: (mcyang87)
 

yup, you will just have to get it chipped and tuned for your car because a p28 is a single cam vtec ecu, you need it to be tuned to your dohc vtec

Re: (K2sInteg98)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K2sInteg98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup, you will just have to get it chipped and tuned for your car because a p28 is a single cam vtec ecu, you need it to be tuned to your dohc vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

--- Yeah, Mcyang87. Don't misconstrue what im saying. You will still need to get it chipped, just p28 runs better till you do.

alright i remember to get it chipped thanks

Re: (mcyang87)
 

if you build an ls-vetc make sure you build it the right way!
Don't do a half ass job as you said that you don't have enough funds to build. Trust me if you don't build it right from the beginning it will cost you more later on! Better be patient and save up to do the build.
If you purchase the golden eagle kit, ditch the gasket and purchase an OEM LS
Make sure you get ARP rod bolts and Head studs, new oil pump, water pump 22t and timing belt, then you'll need a good tune on a P28
Here is a link that you should read and re-read to make sure you get this done right:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1676914

is the golden eagle head gasket that bad then to OEM LS?

Re: (mcyang87)
 

It's not bad, it's just not the right one. The one they supply you with is for a vtec engine. Your block is still the LS so you must get the OEM LS Gasket or else it will leak.

ahh i see...so im better off buying the head bolt, stud, conversion kit without the headgasket then

i visit some of the website that has ls/vtec conversion kit..they ask if it 81mm bore which is stock ls block would that work too?

Re: (mcyang87)
 

so if i go with a lsv set up and i change all the internals to itr!!! i will have a type r with a bigger displacement correct?

also i heard a golden eagle kit will have a greater vtec kick due to the fact that there is more pressure and oil going to the head.

compared to the small oil hole on the block that is used for vtec

well the internal that im getting with the head is already been done by Skunk2...ahhh so the golden eagle kit is pretty good then

Re: (NAmodified)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAmodified &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if i go with a lsv set up and i change all the internals to itr!!! i will have a type r with a bigger displacement correct?

also i heard a golden eagle kit will have a greater vtec kick due to the fact that there is more pressure and oil going to the head.

compared to the small oil hole on the block that is used for vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not too sure about the bigger displacement, maybe more compression but if you stick to stock bores your displacement will be the same.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this one.
And about more pressure... alot of people add catch cans and engine breathers to release the pressure. Pressure can damage equipment prematurely.

ahh i c