So I have been noticing lately that when I pop vtec A cloud of black smoke comes out. So it seems like its burning alot of oil because I did an oil change in the beginnning of May and last week I noticed it was low on oil already. I searched and I know that GSRs comsume alot of oil but damn. So about next month I planned on rebuilding the motor (cams pistons rings valve springs retainers..) and I was wondering should I fix the issue now..(replacing the oil seals or valve seals or whatever it may be) or should I just fix everything during the build? As long as I dont pop vtec I guess I wont be burning oil like that so should I just refrain for driving fast(which is hard) or just fix the problem now and get it over with.. Thanks in advance

 

long as you dont burn oil alot. i'd say wait till rebuild.

could be bad cylinder rings.

compression test is also good idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mhollaek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I have been noticing lately that when I pop vtec A cloud of black smoke comes out. So it seems like its burning alot of oil because I did an oil change in the beginnning of May and last week I noticed it was low on oil already. I searched and I know that GSRs comsume alot of oil but damn. So about next month I planned on rebuilding the motor (cams pistons rings valve springs retainers..) and I was wondering should I fix the issue now..(replacing the oil seals or valve seals or whatever it may be) or should I just fix everything during the build? As long as I dont pop vtec I guess I wont be burning oil like that so should I just refrain for driving fast(which is hard) or just fix the problem now and get it over with.. Thanks in advance</TD></TR></TABLE>

GSRs shouldnt really consume much oil. My 99 DD with 144k doesn't burn any oil.

Here's my rationale:

1st let me say that your motor burning a little oil probably isnt that big of a deal. If you're losing power and stuff, and your rings are worn, then it's a problem. However, consider these options:

Why dont you just beat the crap out of it since you're going to rebuild anyway. Keep adding oil when nessacary..and beat the crap out of it. Thats how i roll...err....how i used to roll when my D16Z6 burned oil. Road race twice daily if you want. who cares?!

If the engine is damaged beyond repair...buy a long block.

Buy a long block and forget about the rebuild. You can probably get a longblock on the cheap now since the K series is the new big thing. Go to some online motor sources, and check prices. There was a great site that was advertising on here on honda tech...cant remember the damn name...cheap motors, and it looked pretty professional.

I dont fix motors. If they falter internally, i drive till they blow up and buy new ones. It's cheaper and thats how dealers do it. It takes less time, and you've got a factory built motor. If my S2000 started to burn oil or whatever...i'd wait till it blew up or became un bearable, and buy another motor. When my D series (plural) started fu$%king up, I just upgraded. D15b2 dual point to D16Z6 and then D16Z6 to B16A2.

 

well black smoke has nothing to do with oil. if black smoke comes out , its running rich. not exactly normal by definition , but common. blue smoke = oil. how old is the car? mileage? is there any visable leaks under the hood? cam seal? valve cover?

 

it has 88k miles on it. I dont have a cat and it has a cel for the 02 sensor so i kno the computer is dumping mad gas into the car but would that have something to do with it? valve cover seeems good. where are the cam seals?

 

it would have to do witht he puff of black smoke, but as for the oil, I dont know.

Ive had 3 different engiens in my gsr, and all of them but 1 lost oil. Im guessing most of them do it, I dont know. I had a stock engine, that didnt burn any, and it got hydrolocked, and the insurance company paid for a salvaged engine. the 1st one was shitty, but the 2nd one was pretty okay.
It still loses a little bit though....

Has it always lost oil or is this new?
It really doesnt bother me to add half a quart or so every few week.

 

im in the same boat.... would a bad cam seal make the car use/burn large amounts of oil?

 

when vtec pops your should have some black smoke from the extra fuel needed to higher cam lift, my gsr looses oil to but doesnt burn any, your motor is fine and the more time you spend in vtec range the more amount of oil you will burn.. replace the o2 sensor and you will notice that the smoke will decrease alot, your computer is running the motor extra rich due to your o2 sensor not working. its a safety caution from the factory, to prevent running to lean.

 

ive read about guys using plug non foulers for running test pipes. ive never used one personally but supposedly they work for turbo apps to pull the o2 sensor away from the stream some. tap your exhaust and run your o2 in a plug non fouler. might work for you.

 

I say fix everything during the build

 

rebuild

 

How many quarts low was it on oil? and how much mileage was put on it since the oil change?

 

The oil level is just above the bottom dot on the dip stick. However I just put a quart of oil in on Saturday It has been about 500 miles since my last oil change. Is this common?...Maybe two occasional races

 

Yeah a quart of oil in 500 miles seems pretty excessive. You should do a compression and leakdown test. What kind of oil are you using? Mobil1 tends to burn off pretty quick in these motors, if that is what you are using.

 

well if you dont have a cat and ur 02 sensor is not functioning...then that would make it blow lots of black smoke...get that fixed and if that doesnt work...then it could be your piston rings...keep us updated!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikex1021 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when vtec pops your should have some black smoke from the extra fuel needed to higher cam lift, .</TD></TR></TABLE>

the amount of extra fuel needed is not enough to make coulds of black smoke come out the exhaust. something else is causing you to run rich. im guess it would be the test pipe and o2 CEL.

my bolt on's b18c1 doesnt burn oil or smoke AT ALL in vtec. blue, black, white, orange, whatever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the amount of extra fuel needed is not enough to make coulds of black smoke come out the exhaust. something else is causing you to run rich. im guess it would be the test pipe and o2 CEL.

my bolt on's b18c1 doesnt burn oil or smoke AT ALL in vtec. blue, black, white, orange, whatever.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so does running rich have to do with oil consumption? And thanks bro you answer like all my post. Ill pay you to teach me gsr 101 lol

 

those are two seperate problems. burning oil could be from bad seals and/or rings. running rich could be from bad o2 sensors or any numerous other things.

first and foremost, do compression and leakdown tests to determine the health of the engine. then get that o2 CEL taken care of.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mhollaek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it has 88k miles on it. I dont have a cat and it has a cel for the 02 sensor so i kno the computer is dumping mad gas into the car but would that have something to do with it? valve cover seeems good. where are the cam seals?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, black smoke does mean the car is running rich, but the OP said that he was losing oil as well. Whether it's leaking or burning is another question.

Which O2 sensor is bad? Is it throwing a code for? the primary or secondary? The secondary O2 monitors the operation of the cat. If the cat is not present, or malfunctioning, and the secondary O2 has a pulse, it will set a check engine light. The secondary O2 doesn't affect fuel curve.

If the primary O2 is bad, that's when you get the running rich problems.

Put your cat on. I've said it a few times. A few horse power isnt worth not being able to breath clean air.

 

what color smoke is coming out the tail pipe?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.8L_allmotormilitia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what color smoke is coming out the tail pipe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

black but only when in vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Which O2 sensor is bad? Is it throwing a code for? the primary or secondary? The secondary O2 monitors the operation of the cat. If the cat is not present, or malfunctioning, and the secondary O2 has a pulse, it will set a check engine light. The secondary O2 doesn't affect fuel curve.

If the primary O2 is bad, that's when you get the running rich problems.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

the secondary o2 heater sensor I belive is bad. I have an o2 sensor in the headers but not in the test pipe. I think i will replace for high flow cat but I can also get a chipped p28 ecu to remove the cel too right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mhollaek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

black but only when in vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>


ok thats not burning oil thats called running rich...dumping too much fuel. check o2 sensor.

 

can a local shop do the compre/leak down tests or is it cheaper to buy the parts and do it myself? Is replacing the seals do-able myself?

 

you can get a compression tester from autozone for like $20. you will however need an air compressor to do a leakdown.