Goal is a mid 14s daily driven 98 Jdm NA b18b engine in a 2000 2dr coupe civic

I have already got all bolt ons + act clutch, P-plate and flywheel


The plan is:
- Crower 403 cams+ springs+ Ti retainer+ sprokets
- ARP Rod bearings to take the higher revs ( Want 8000 red line)
- Inccreasing comp from current 9.4:1 to 10.0:1
- Dyno Tune my Obd1 P75 ecu

Questions:
How much can I take off when milling the head?
How much bigger should I get the pistons?

Thanks

 

id prolly get 404s and around 11.0:1 compression...and run a chrome/neptune chipped/tuned ecu...

you have to take your compression, and cam specs into consideration when milling your head...you could raise your compression by getting the correct pistons instead of making up for it by milling...

 

404 are a bit agressive and will be lobing at idle so that's why I'm not getting them!

What is the rule on retarding cam gears with respest to milling? anD how much milling to get from 9.4 to 10. comp?

 

I think I'm going to leave the milling alone and just get SRP pistons for 81mm bore that bring comp up to 10.5:1 and make sure to get ARP rod blots to support the 8000red line!!! Any thnig else I should be looking at to support the higher red line?

 

i was once told that you couldnt mill a over head cam setup because of the possibility of it jumping timing.. i dont know if this is true but it does make since. maybe you should research it a little more in depth..

 

10:1 might not be enough compression for some mid 14's
I would kick it up to 12:1 and then the 404 would be an awesome fit for that compression.

 

U will be able to rev to 8k with ARP rod bolts.

I'm on stock compression on crower 404's, and im pretty sure, im high 14's in my 2530lbs Integra.

i dont think 404's are that bad, just need some gas on cold start up, and its fine. and they are soo much better than 403's performance wise.

 

w/ proper tuning, the idle shouldnt be a problem...

if you want a good idle, skip the 404s and get a vtec head instead...

search for lsvtec

 

I know I looked into it but I needed so much stuff it got really expemsive and I wasn't even sure of the out come!! ( neede gsr oil and Water pump, timming belt, full head gaskett kit, Golden eagle vtec covrsion kit, ctr pistons, machine work, b16a2 engine with complete intake and throttle body, p30 Ecu and the list went on)
The worst part was the labour and time without the car!!
Turbo is out of my league and that's why I want to build my b18b for now!

 

b18b's love boost so unless your worried about tuning it right away properly, then i would say just boost it, thats what i am hoping to do to my 1994 teg

 

here is a question, can I change the rod bolts from underneath by removing the oil pan???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by psegs80 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is a question, can I change the rod bolts from underneath by removing the oil pan???</TD></TR></TABLE>

ha! can you, yes. Should you, no.

For compression, up it to 11.6. 12 and over is the line for street gas and race gas. Has it been done, 12:1 compression on 91, yes. But it seems to be agreed, over 12 is bad for the streets.

forgot to add, the people who suggest going turbo know what they are talking about. LS's love to boost, low compression is great. Run the greddy turbo kit, on stock specifications, heck even the greddy e-manage will do fine, youll have great reliability, and power. gsr's make great power turbo charged, but dont do well in the reliability category. Hondas have weak piston rings, they are the first to go. When you lower the compression, it takes A LOT of stress off the rings, making a happy motor.

LS STOCK BLOCK
Vtec head
greddy turbo

geez, that would kick ***.