NSX calipers
My car is an '01 GSR with ~ 245whp. I put on a StopTech big brake kit and I really like the stopping power I get with that. The problem is that this requires 17in wheels and I want to switch to 16s.
I have a chance to grab some NSX front calipers, but I don't know if they will bolt on to the GSR knuckle, or if the piston size is the same. I've seen NSX brakes on tegs before:

and this looks sweet but this car is so heavily modified who knows what they did to install those brakes. Anybody know if they fit, or if the piston is compatible?
Modified by High RPM at 10:20 PM 9/24/2007
I have a chance to grab some NSX front calipers, but I don't know if they will bolt on to the GSR knuckle, or if the piston size is the same. I've seen NSX brakes on tegs before:

and this looks sweet but this car is so heavily modified who knows what they did to install those brakes. Anybody know if they fit, or if the piston is compatible?
Modified by High RPM at 10:20 PM 9/24/2007
The picture does not work. Yes they will bolt to your knuckles. You can run 15" wheels.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=734560
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=734560
Fit bolt on,
you need to use Legend 1994 big rotor,redrill 4X100
two version of the nsx caliper
NA1 fit 15 inches wheel
Na2 fit 16 in wheel
susgestion, change the front and the rear with NSX caliper
I have this set-up on my Type R and I love it
I have one set to sell
c5sb@hotmail.com
you need to use Legend 1994 big rotor,redrill 4X100
two version of the nsx caliper
NA1 fit 15 inches wheel
Na2 fit 16 in wheel
susgestion, change the front and the rear with NSX caliper
I have this set-up on my Type R and I love it
I have one set to sell
c5sb@hotmail.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sigur-Ros! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and if you cant get a hold of them and your a cheep *** you could always go with legend ones</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Legend calipers are directional. When properly mounted on the Integra knuckle, the bleeder will point downwards. If you mount them with the bleeder pointed upwards, expect uneven pad wear due to the leading piston being larger. The NSX calipers have the bleeder on the correct side for the Integra knuckle.
The Legend calipers are directional. When properly mounted on the Integra knuckle, the bleeder will point downwards. If you mount them with the bleeder pointed upwards, expect uneven pad wear due to the leading piston being larger. The NSX calipers have the bleeder on the correct side for the Integra knuckle.
read it along time ago, saw people with it. thanks for clearing it up tho, i heard problems but i didnt know they were that bad
heat finned, lighter calipers it is...
heat finned, lighter calipers it is...
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I don't know if I want bigger calipers on the rear. I wouldn't want the back end kickin out on me if I brake on a curve. You ever have that happen? How big are the rear calipers?
You have one set of <U>what</U> to sell? Fronts? Rears? Both?
You have one set of <U>what</U> to sell? Fronts? Rears? Both?
Standard NSX's
1991 - 1996 front: 40mm + 36mm
1991 - 1996 rear: 43mm
1997+ front: 40mm + 34mm
1997+ rear: 48mm
I use 1991-1996 front and rear nsx caliper, I use it on the street and on the track, never have probleme with back end kicking out.
when you do big brake upgrade in the front you can do in the back too, if you want to optimized
example, your braking distance is 100 foot
75% is the front, your bigger brake are 30% better
75% X30% = reduction of distance -22.5
the rear 25%X30% = reduction of braking distance = 7,5
so to have the reduction of 30% you change the front and the rear
OEM 100 foot
bigger caliper in the front 77.5 foot
front and rear 70 foot
the number are just example
1991 - 1996 front: 40mm + 36mm
1991 - 1996 rear: 43mm
1997+ front: 40mm + 34mm
1997+ rear: 48mm
I use 1991-1996 front and rear nsx caliper, I use it on the street and on the track, never have probleme with back end kicking out.
when you do big brake upgrade in the front you can do in the back too, if you want to optimized
example, your braking distance is 100 foot
75% is the front, your bigger brake are 30% better
75% X30% = reduction of distance -22.5
the rear 25%X30% = reduction of braking distance = 7,5
so to have the reduction of 30% you change the front and the rear
OEM 100 foot
bigger caliper in the front 77.5 foot
front and rear 70 foot
the number are just example
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c5sb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Standard NSX's
1991 - 1996 front: 40mm + 36mm
1991 - 1996 rear: 43mm
1997+ front: 40mm + 34mm
1997+ rear: 48mm
I use 1991-1996 front and rear nsx caliper, I use it on the street and on the track, never have probleme with back end kicking out.
when you do big brake upgrade in the front you can do in the back too, if you want to optimized
example, your braking distance is 100 foot
75% is the front, your bigger brake are 30% better
75% X30% = reduction of distance -22.5
the rear 25%X30% = reduction of braking distance = 7,5
so to have the reduction of 30% you change the front and the rear
OEM 100 foot
bigger caliper in the front 77.5 foot
front and rear 70 foot
the number are just example
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes and no on the rear upgrade. Read this link:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
The ABS does wonders for ensuring balance.
1991 - 1996 front: 40mm + 36mm
1991 - 1996 rear: 43mm
1997+ front: 40mm + 34mm
1997+ rear: 48mm
I use 1991-1996 front and rear nsx caliper, I use it on the street and on the track, never have probleme with back end kicking out.
when you do big brake upgrade in the front you can do in the back too, if you want to optimized
example, your braking distance is 100 foot
75% is the front, your bigger brake are 30% better
75% X30% = reduction of distance -22.5
the rear 25%X30% = reduction of braking distance = 7,5
so to have the reduction of 30% you change the front and the rear
OEM 100 foot
bigger caliper in the front 77.5 foot
front and rear 70 foot
the number are just example
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes and no on the rear upgrade. Read this link:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
The ABS does wonders for ensuring balance.
I just read the link I am surprise with the mistake they write,
ok read that part:
Here's where things start to get interesting, though. ABS enters "isolation mode" and shuts off the hydraulic line from the master cylinder to the left front caliper, isolating the driver from applying more pressure. Next, the ABS starts work in "decrease mode," and once again calculates that 10ms are required to the excess pressure from the left front caliper in order to allow the left front wheel to reaccelerate back up to the vehicle's actual speed - 71.5 MPH in this case. Unfortunately, this calculation was based on the standard vehicle's pressure-torque characteristics of the left front caliper/pad/rotor assembly. Let's talk about this briefly while the barrels roll in closer
On acura integra ABS a least...
The ecu don't have any time in the memory 10ms, or calulate the correct time...
The ecu restore line when he see the wheel is turning again
Make no sens to have a waiting time, you want the wheel to have braking power as fast as possible.
Depending on the surface, the tire, the fluid temperature..... the time can be diferente. So the wheel is turning again, you put fluid again. watever the time is.
ok read that part:
Here's where things start to get interesting, though. ABS enters "isolation mode" and shuts off the hydraulic line from the master cylinder to the left front caliper, isolating the driver from applying more pressure. Next, the ABS starts work in "decrease mode," and once again calculates that 10ms are required to the excess pressure from the left front caliper in order to allow the left front wheel to reaccelerate back up to the vehicle's actual speed - 71.5 MPH in this case. Unfortunately, this calculation was based on the standard vehicle's pressure-torque characteristics of the left front caliper/pad/rotor assembly. Let's talk about this briefly while the barrels roll in closer
On acura integra ABS a least...
The ecu don't have any time in the memory 10ms, or calulate the correct time...
The ecu restore line when he see the wheel is turning again
Make no sens to have a waiting time, you want the wheel to have braking power as fast as possible.
Depending on the surface, the tire, the fluid temperature..... the time can be diferente. So the wheel is turning again, you put fluid again. watever the time is.
secondo
read that (on stoptech web site)
The most dramatic front-bias impacts are usually brought about by “big brake kits” which are not properly matched to the intended vehicle. Any time that a bigger front rotor is installed, there is a simultaneous need to decrease the effective clamping force of the caliper (installing smaller pistons is the easiest method) to offset the increased torque created by larger rotor effective radius. The objective is to maintain a constant amount of brake corner output (torque) for a given brake line pressure as Figure 6 illustrates. Unfortunately, too many upgrades do not take this factor into account, and those poor cars end up with both bigger rotors and larger pistons which serve to drastically shift the bias even more forward. While rock-solid stable under braking, stopping distances will go up dramatically.
Againt make no sens. Watever the kit you put in the front if it make your car with a decrease stoping distance, that mean that the bias is now forward compare to oem.
If stoptech sold you front caliper kit with the same OEM bias, the stoping distance is the same.
wath you need to know:
use your head
try to be proportional with your upgrade
you don't want to put NSX front caliper with rear civic drum
about the nsx caliper on integra I try both.
1 front nsx with stock rear caliper = more power, more endurance, better distance
2 front nsx and rear nsx = same as #1 with even more power,better distance, more endurance and a little bit better bias.
bias is very good on both kit and the ABS is working like stock
before I make the nsx upgrade I was effraid because they are so much scrap on the net.
I run the nsx caliper for two year and I love it.
The only probleme is want I drive other car I hate the poor braking they have,
VR6, STI....
sorry for my english
I hop this help
read that (on stoptech web site)
The most dramatic front-bias impacts are usually brought about by “big brake kits” which are not properly matched to the intended vehicle. Any time that a bigger front rotor is installed, there is a simultaneous need to decrease the effective clamping force of the caliper (installing smaller pistons is the easiest method) to offset the increased torque created by larger rotor effective radius. The objective is to maintain a constant amount of brake corner output (torque) for a given brake line pressure as Figure 6 illustrates. Unfortunately, too many upgrades do not take this factor into account, and those poor cars end up with both bigger rotors and larger pistons which serve to drastically shift the bias even more forward. While rock-solid stable under braking, stopping distances will go up dramatically.
Againt make no sens. Watever the kit you put in the front if it make your car with a decrease stoping distance, that mean that the bias is now forward compare to oem.
If stoptech sold you front caliper kit with the same OEM bias, the stoping distance is the same.
wath you need to know:
use your head
try to be proportional with your upgrade
you don't want to put NSX front caliper with rear civic drum
about the nsx caliper on integra I try both.
1 front nsx with stock rear caliper = more power, more endurance, better distance
2 front nsx and rear nsx = same as #1 with even more power,better distance, more endurance and a little bit better bias.
bias is very good on both kit and the ABS is working like stock
before I make the nsx upgrade I was effraid because they are so much scrap on the net.
I run the nsx caliper for two year and I love it.
The only probleme is want I drive other car I hate the poor braking they have,
VR6, STI....
sorry for my english
I hop this help
use whichever: ITR, NSX, or LEGEND calipers... people will tell you that the ITR brakes are sufficient which is fine. the best bang for the buck, in my opinion are the legend calipers... larger 2 piston design plust they are reasonably priced. as far as the rotors go, go with prelude vtec rotors redrilled to 4x100. pm me for more info if you have questions. dogginator was major help for me in the past!
Legend are cheaper but like Dogginator said
The Legend calipers are directional. When properly mounted on the Integra knuckle, the bleeder will point downwards. If you mount them with the bleeder pointed upwards, expect uneven pad wear due to the leading piston being larger. The NSX calipers have the bleeder on the correct side for the Integra knuckle.
and for the track the nsx have more air cool, almost twice the surface
the small wave on the top of the caliper
for the last the NSX is looking better
3 reason that make me put the extra buck for the nsx
and compare to big brake like aem...3 time cheaper
The Legend calipers are directional. When properly mounted on the Integra knuckle, the bleeder will point downwards. If you mount them with the bleeder pointed upwards, expect uneven pad wear due to the leading piston being larger. The NSX calipers have the bleeder on the correct side for the Integra knuckle.
and for the track the nsx have more air cool, almost twice the surface
the small wave on the top of the caliper
for the last the NSX is looking better
3 reason that make me put the extra buck for the nsx
and compare to big brake like aem...3 time cheaper
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c5sb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">two version of the nsx caliper
NA1 fit 15 inches wheel
Na2 fit 16 in wheel</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want to run 16in wheels anyway, so I might as well get the bigger calipers that fit 16in wheels. Are the different versions of the caliper from different years, or different models in the same year?
Do you know the part number for the bigger calipers? If not, what year/model NSX?
NA1 fit 15 inches wheel
Na2 fit 16 in wheel</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want to run 16in wheels anyway, so I might as well get the bigger calipers that fit 16in wheels. Are the different versions of the caliper from different years, or different models in the same year?
Do you know the part number for the bigger calipers? If not, what year/model NSX?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c5sb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
about the nsx caliper on integra I try both.
1 front nsx with stock rear caliper = more power, more endurance, better distance
2 front nsx and rear nsx = same as #1 with even more power,better distance, more endurance and a little bit better bias.
bias is very good on both kit and the ABS is working like stock
</TD></TR></TABLE>
How were you able to measure your bias?
about the nsx caliper on integra I try both.
1 front nsx with stock rear caliper = more power, more endurance, better distance
2 front nsx and rear nsx = same as #1 with even more power,better distance, more endurance and a little bit better bias.
bias is very good on both kit and the ABS is working like stock
</TD></TR></TABLE>
How were you able to measure your bias?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by High RPM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How were you able to measure your bias?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can estimate the bias, but in reality it needs to be tuned for the tires, suspension, road surface, temperature, etc.
How were you able to measure your bias?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can estimate the bias, but in reality it needs to be tuned for the tires, suspension, road surface, temperature, etc.
1991 - 1996 front: 40mm + 36mm 15 inch wheel
1991 - 1996 rear: 43mm
1997+ front: 40mm + 34mm 16 inch wheel
1997+ rear: 48mm
1991-1996 the bias is better for integra, and you can use smaller rotor to save some weight
on the picture is using 16in wheel and 1991-1996 caliper
1991 - 1996 rear: 43mm
1997+ front: 40mm + 34mm 16 inch wheel
1997+ rear: 48mm
1991-1996 the bias is better for integra, and you can use smaller rotor to save some weight
on the picture is using 16in wheel and 1991-1996 caliper
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c5sb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1991 - 1996 front: 40mm + 36mm 15 inch wheel
1991 - 1996 rear: 43mm
1997+ front: 40mm + 34mm 16 inch wheel
1997+ rear: 48mm
1991-1996 the bias is better for integra, and you can use smaller rotor to save some weight
on the picture is using 16in wheel and 1991-1996 caliper</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the most helpful information so far. Thank you for clarifying.
What if I used 1997+ on the front, and 1991-1996 for the rear? I'm thinking that would be better stopping power on the front, and better bias than leaving my stock calipers on the rear. Best of both worlds?
1991 - 1996 rear: 43mm
1997+ front: 40mm + 34mm 16 inch wheel
1997+ rear: 48mm
1991-1996 the bias is better for integra, and you can use smaller rotor to save some weight
on the picture is using 16in wheel and 1991-1996 caliper</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the most helpful information so far. Thank you for clarifying.
What if I used 1997+ on the front, and 1991-1996 for the rear? I'm thinking that would be better stopping power on the front, and better bias than leaving my stock calipers on the rear. Best of both worlds?
for the front, with the 1997+ caliper you need to use TSX rotor
you will need to grind the caliper to align the caliper with the rotor
for the grinding you can do it at a machin shop
to play safe you can use brake pad more agressif in the front
example:
Front: HP+
rear: PBR
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by High RPM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is the most helpful information so far. Thank you for clarifying.
What if I used 1997+ on the front, and 1991-1996 for the rear? I'm thinking that would be better stopping power on the front, and better bias than leaving my stock calipers on the rear. Best of both worlds?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you will need to grind the caliper to align the caliper with the rotor
for the grinding you can do it at a machin shop
to play safe you can use brake pad more agressif in the front
example:
Front: HP+
rear: PBR
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by High RPM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is the most helpful information so far. Thank you for clarifying.
What if I used 1997+ on the front, and 1991-1996 for the rear? I'm thinking that would be better stopping power on the front, and better bias than leaving my stock calipers on the rear. Best of both worlds?</TD></TR></TABLE>
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