if i were to go LS-vtec by slappin on a vtec head and gettin some pistons and taping oil lines, would i need to take out my motor or can it all be done w/o taking out my motor,

 

Everyones going to tell you to search, so im gonna end it b4 ppl go off..

no you'r going to need to take your motor out, if your doing pistons you wanna get some machine work done.

I'd also suggest resurfacing the block and head while its all out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spectrum24x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyones going to tell you to search, so im gonna end it b4 ppl go off..

no you'r going to need to take your motor out, if your doing pistons you wanna get some machine work done.

I'd also suggest resurfacing the block and head while its all out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

damn thats alot of work... anyone noe of any shops in san diego that will build LS-v for cheap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietblood129 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn thats alot of work... anyone noe of any shops in san diego that will build LS-v for cheap?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ls-V aint cheap, and if it is, its not gonna be reliable.

If you want cheap, just boost your LS, you'll get better numbers for your buck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spectrum24x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ls-V aint cheap, and if it is, its not gonna be reliable.

If you want cheap, just boost your LS, you'll get better numbers for your buck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

dude its easy to take off an engine! u just need the tools... above all if budget.. just remove the motor with a group of friends and then give the motor to a mechanic or a shop to do the work... and when the motor is done put it back.. and have someone wire it up...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m2slsvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude its easy to take off an engine! u just need the tools... above all if budget.. just remove the motor with a group of friends and then give the motor to a mechanic or a shop to do the work... and when the motor is done put it back.. and have someone wire it up... </TD></TR></TABLE>

That'll save you a good 800-1000 bucks.

 

iono much ppl who know how to intsall and mess with turbo, and if anything goes wrong i dunno how to expletive with turbo.. NA is something i can get help on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietblood129 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">iono much ppl who know how to intsall and mess with turbo, and if anything goes wrong i dunno how to expletive with turbo.. NA is something i can get help on</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't say i blame you for that, i went N/A on mine, but i'll be honest, for what i spent, i coulda had double the horsepower with boost, just so you know that, going into the n/a scene

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spectrum24x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> That'll save you a good 800-1000 bucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

saving good 800-1000 dollars on taking the motor out and puttin it back in?

 

yeah, they charge quite a bit for labor on that stuff, most performance shops do anyways

 

anyone know of any shops in San DIEGO that are good?

 

Maaaaaaaaaannnn.... seriously. do about 2-3 hours of research first. Then give it a day to think about, then start getting a parts list together with prices. And then figure out if you still want to do it. Then if you decide that you are, then start looking for a shop. Dont just buy a head and take it to a shop and say, "here put it on." You will feel a lot more confident if you do the research and make lists. It will take quite a while. I have been researching and getting a list ready for a couple weeks now.

 

what is there to research, plz share with me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietblood129 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is there to research, plz share with me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your search for lsvtec returned 924 results


good luck, and read like the rest of us did...

 

Yeah, that is exactly what i searched, lsvtec. And i read through a couple hundred posts. And i still dont get everything. Im still researching. Lsvtec isnt just a bing bang boom thing, you have to know what your doing or you will have a shitty engine.

 

thats why.. ive always been searching up "ls vtec" or "ls-vtec" or "ls-v" never "lsvtec"

 

don't forget head bolts. i researched and a LOT of people had problems with the head bolts snapping at a high rpm. the stock head bolts can't withstand the high rev. lsvtec actually makes the redline shorter. i think i'm just going with a swap. then i'll work on that motor a little bit. i needed something reliable and ls-vtec isn't the most reliable thing in the world.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cleanDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't forget head bolts. i researched and a LOT of people had problems with the head bolts snapping at a high rpm. the stock head bolts can't withstand the high rev. lsvtec actually makes the redline shorter. i think i'm just going with a swap. then i'll work on that motor a little bit. i needed something reliable and ls-vtec isn't the most reliable thing in the world.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is, but its not cheap to be reliable, i have an lsvtec and its a lot of fun, good strong motor, i feel incredibly safe taking it to 8200 everyday.

 

My LS/VTEC was about $900 total and I've got about 10,000 miles on it since we built it, including the 2500 mile I just did crossing the country. It's 11.2:1 compression too. Just because it's cheap doesn't mean it will suck, just check everything, make sure it's good and fix make sure you do everything right (vtec oil pump is crucial). Oh yeah and I don't run ARP Rod bolts

 

Ok, 900 bucks, you must have already had the head, and got a good hook up on parts, and done EVERYTHING yourself, no tuning?

11.2:1 compression pistons and bearings alone will cost you 900 bucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jedubz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh yeah and I don't run ARP Rod bolts </TD></TR></TABLE>

dont use arp rod bolts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietblood129 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

dont use arp rod bolts? </TD></TR></TABLE>

He means that he doesn't use them on his setup. If your going to do anything to the bottom end and are using stock LS rods than use arp rod bolts on them. When reving higher this puts more stress on the rods, and rod bolts themselves. If you go with an aftermarket set usually some rods come with ARP rod bolts, or the likes.

I'd also suggest using the ARP head bolts also to prevent any headlifting.

I'd rather put the headache into a turbo setup. But don't get me wrong, an ls-vtec setup done right can be quick and reliable.