That's odd, I'm pretty sure that D2S and D2R both have the same base. Check on HIDplanet.com to be sure. But the bulb should definitely not move at all once it's clipped into the bulb holder.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by latindc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are u using any harness? </TD></TR></TABLE>

NO, I'm using the stock harness...I did some technical reading, and I found out that the stock harness is actually a pretty sturdy harness....


As you can see, there are multiple safeguards already in place, the only thing missing is the relays. So I'll be fine for now....if I'm bored at some point in the near future, then I'll think about doing the new harness

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's odd, I'm pretty sure that D2S and D2R both have the same base. Check on HIDplanet.com to be sure. But the bulb should definitely not move at all once it's clipped into the bulb holder.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes...another problem is that the guy that I bought the bulbs from actually ran this kit on his stock 9006 connectors....so he actually jammed the bulbs into the 9006 holder to get them to stay...because of that, I think the bulb bases are slightly out ot whack.......well new 4300k d2s will be coming soon.....can't wait for that

 

thanks for pointing that out though

 

shoulda done the Angel eyes while you had it off...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r4integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shoulda done the Angel eyes while you had it off...</TD></TR></TABLE>


On a more serious note...

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHHAHA

 

great write up

 

Very good right up. I am sure when I print this out and try to actually do the conversion the pictures will make me laugh as I am fustrated at how I fucked up my headlights

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eclipse spanker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO, I'm using the stock harness...I did some technical reading, and I found out that the stock harness is actually a pretty sturdy harness....


As you can see, there are multiple safeguards already in place, the only thing missing is the relays. So I'll be fine for now....if I'm bored at some point in the near future, then I'll think about doing the new harness </TD></TR></TABLE>

The thing I don't like about Honda's headlight wiring, if you notice there in the diagram, ALL the current for both headlights passes through the switch on steering column. That's ~102 watts on low beams, or *gasp* ~222 watts when all 4 lights are on I know that's only ~15 amps of current total for stock halogen low and high beams all on at the same time (all passing through the column switch), but I prefer to have the switch only switch the relays, and have the hardy 30A relays handle the current.

That's why there have been cases of people melting their steering column stalk when running high-wattage headlight bulbs (like the 100+ watts per bulb).

Now I know that HID systems only draw a nominal 35 watts, but the current draw is quite high for a short time when they are first fired up. So the harnesses I made are just for my piece of mind.

 

This may seeml like a dumb question, but How do you know when your projectors are aligned straight? just guess and drill and hope to make then have the same horizontal line?

Nice write up. Clears up some questions I had.

 

for you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrnTurtle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This may seeml like a dumb question, but How do you know when your projectors are aligned straight? just guess and drill and hope to make then have the same horizontal line?

Nice write up. Clears up some questions I had. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For the most part with the Integra headlight brackets, you can just line up the top edge of the projector housing with the top edge of the bracket. It's more difficult on projectors like these where you have to space them forward to bring them up flush w/ the OEM projector bezels. There will probably be some trial and error involved, though. You should mount the headlight housings back on the car without the lenses and do a test run to see if you got them level or not, and how you need to adjust/rotate them.

 

This is a great write-up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrnTurtle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This may seeml like a dumb question, but How do you know when your projectors are aligned straight? just guess and drill and hope to make then have the same horizontal line?

Nice write up. Clears up some questions I had. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, Dude, your avatar is freakin hilarious...it looks like something my 3 year old sister would draw !

But to answer your question, I think Patrick pretty much summed it up. Also, I didnt mention this before, but there are actually 2 ways to mount eh projector on the bracket. The first way is the way that I did it, with the projector and reflector mounted about 2 inches in front of the bracket, and then the second way, is to actually mount the reflector to the back of the bracket, so it sits flush with bracket. Then you just mount the projectorin front of the bracket. This si the only way that I know that you will be sure that the projector is perfectly straight, horizontally and vertically. With and Skafias's and my method you just have to keep measuring until you are very sure that they are straight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The thing I don't like about Honda's headlight wiring, if you notice there in the diagram, ALL the current for both headlights passes through the switch on steering column. That's ~102 watts on low beams, or *gasp* ~222 watts when all 4 lights are on I know that's only ~15 amps of current total for stock halogen low and high beams all on at the same time (all passing through the column switch), but I prefer to have the switch only switch the relays, and have the hardy 30A relays handle the current.

That's why there have been cases of people melting their steering column stalk when running high-wattage headlight bulbs (like the 100+ watts per bulb).

Now I know that HID systems only draw a nominal 35 watts, but the current draw is quite high for a short time when they are first fired up. So the harnesses I made are just for my piece of mind. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are right, that is an awful lot of juice going throught the column switch, and there is a chance of burning it out. I agree that at some point a new harness should be added, but I think this is just more of a precautionary measure.....According to the Haynes manual, the HID electrical output is within tolerances of the OEM Integra harness. I think the harness issue is for cars that have weaker headlight wiring; but once again, it definetely can't hurt, and it is a good precautionary measure, in case the worst should happen. To be totally honest with you, I just spent about 12 hours on the retrofit, and I dont want to even hear of working on it anymore for a while LOL. When I feel up to it, I will definetely do the upgraded relay harness though, probably in a couple of months.

 

By the way, thanks to all of the kind replies....You guys on Honda tech have helped me out so much over the years with my car, so doing this write-up was just a small token of my appreciation

 

great write up!

 

Hmmm i think u left out the info how to wire them up...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by latindc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm i think u left out the info how to wire them up...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Skafia has all that info, no need for repeating it here.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eclipse spanker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But to answer your question, I think Patrick pretty much summed it up. Also, I didnt mention this before, but there are actually 2 ways to mount eh projector on the bracket. The first way is the way that I did it, with the projector and reflector mounted about 2 inches in front of the bracket, and then the second way, is to actually mount the reflector to the back of the bracket, so it sits flush with bracket. Then you just mount the projectorin front of the bracket. This si the only way that I know that you will be sure that the projector is perfectly straight, horizontally and vertically. With and Skafias's and my method you just have to keep measuring until you are very sure that they are straight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You would not want to mount it directly to the bracket with A6's or S2000's or any other projector that is short in length. You could, of course, but I would go so far as to say that would be the WRONG way to do it. You would end up with a huge 2"+ gap between the projector and the OEM bezel, and a TON of light would be lost inside the housing. You're already losing some foreground lighting because of the size of the lower portion of the bezel on 98+ headlights. Think of a flashlight, shining some distance away onto a board with a hole in it. You get a round ***** of light on the wall, and the board blocks the rest of the light. Move the flashlight all the way up to the hole in the board, and pretty much all the light from the flashlight reaches the wall. With a short projector you MUST use spacers to bring the lens up flush w/ the OEM bezel. Not doing so makes the whole job pointless.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Skafia has all that info, no need for repeating it here.

You would not want to mount it directly to the bracket with A6's or S2000's or any other projector that is short in length. You could, of course, but I would go so far as to say that would be the WRONG way to do it. You would end up with a huge 2"+ gap between the projector and the OEM bezel, and a TON of light would be lost inside the housing. You're already losing some foreground lighting because of the size of the lower portion of the bezel on 98+ headlights. Think of a flashlight, shining some distance away onto a board with a hole in it. You get a round ***** of light on the wall, and the board blocks the rest of the light. Move the flashlight all the way up to the hole in the board, and pretty much all the light from the flashlight reaches the wall. With a short projector you MUST use spacers to bring the lens up flush w/ the OEM bezel. Not doing so makes the whole job pointless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with that.....the thought crossed my mind to mount them that way, but then I realized how much light would be lost with the projectors set so far back. Someone on here actually has their projector mounted like that. I remember seeing the picture somewhere but I cant remember where. But yes, I guess the only good thing out of doing it that way is that you definetely wouldn't have any problems mounting the ignitors onto the back of the bulbs after that

 

Awesome retrofit, looks great and nice write up, but I have one question, how much did the retrofit cost you total?

 

good write-up.. i will be doing mine soon with hella e55 projectors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Josef83 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome retrofit, looks great and nice write up, but I have one question, how much did the retrofit cost you total?</TD></TR></TABLE>

400$ in total

 

could you do mine?

j/k

good job

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by huepowered &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good write-up.. i will be doing mine soon with hella e55 projectors</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll be happy...E55s are really good projectors, and also alot easier to retrofit than the ones that I used. If you can though, try to get S2000 or 05 lexus projectors...those are the badass grandaddies of HID projectors.