I'm trying to remove my stock suspension.

#19 is ruining my day, and my Dad's tools.

If anyone has suggestions (besides impact tools because I don't have them) I'd be happy to try anything.

I have tried:

-Using PB blaster numerous times.
-Using a pipe for leverage on the 14mm side, which caused the wrench to bend.
-Using a pipe with a ratchet and socket on the 19mm side, the ratchet exploded. (found out it's welded on)


I'm noticing that the area the bolt goes through is flexible, like hard rubber. So when I hit it with a sledge it just jiggles and keeps the bolt from getting a true hard hit.


Anyone who has done this without being at a mechanic shop HELP please.

<U> Update: I broke the bolt off. Now I need to get new ones. </U>

I think I'm also going to need #24 pictured below:



Has anyone gotten these parts from Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, C.A.P. etc?





Modified by beastman@ at 9:21 AM 7/4/2008

 

Everyone have problem with that bolt, it rusted and seized with the rubber bushing.

Most likely if you wrench it hard enough it will just break off, then you would need to get the old bushing pushed out and push in new ones.

 

Did you strip the bolt yet? The 19mm side I believe is welded onto the shock so dont even bother with that side.

A good way is to heat up the bolt with a torch and then try using a ratchet with a hammer. Either that or an impact gun.

 

yea, best bet is to cut the bolt off and just put in a new one. Try it with a breaker bar until it breaks...and I dont mean to use a regular wrench or ratchet, get an actual breaker bar, and then add an extension for extra leverage. Once it breaks, just pull out the pieces, and put in the new one. There is a chance that you may be able to get it off...

 

you probaly know this but just in case you should know that one side is welded on

 

Beat it with a hammer and use an impact gun.

 

impact gun FTW...

 

You probably shouldn't bother with regular wrenches. Find yourself a good breaker bar and put it to use. Or a friend with air tools.

And if I remember correctly, isn't that fork bolt a 17mm? I don't recall ever using a 19mm unless you were wrenching the welded nut.

 

The welded side is 19mm, I feel like an idiot for wasting my time with it. The other side is 14mm on my car. But I've noticed some people say it's 17mm.

Now that I look at the Koni with the bolt welded I feel even more stupid. I'm glad I found that photo before I killed more tools.

If I do end up breaking the bolt off, will I need a new bushing as well? #24 pictured below right?





Modified by beastman@ at 6:13 AM 7/4/2008

 

Sorry to say, but air tools are really the only safe way to get the bolt out w/o danger of breaking the bolt head off.

 

So if I brought this to my buddies shop, they would be able to gun it off no problem?

 

break the bolt then cut it on either side of the strut then you can usually pull it out and just put the new bushing and bollt in

 

Went to lowes and got a breaker bar. First bolt snapped right away. I'm going to hold off on the second one till I can get to my buddies shop.

Will Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, or C.A.P. have this bolt?

What about the bushing, it is #24 in the second pic right?

 

I found this at advance auto parts website. It's called:

Shock/Strut - Mounting Kit: Rear; 2 Per Car



Is that what I need?

I also found this http://www.partsamerica.com/Pr...Set=A


Modified by beastman@ at 11:47 AM 7/4/2008

 

road salt is murder can't really help you because in cali no snow but i've seen rusted bolts at work and you have to gun them off to hopefully not break it

 

cut off the welded side and just replace the nut and bolt and add a lock washer.

 

I did a write up. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2256702

 

impact tool works great.don't got one cheat pipe would be your friend.

 

I snapped the head off the bolt already. Which brings me to my next question:

That bolt is still in there rock solid. Is it "safe" to drive on?

I pulled it out of the garage and into my parking spot, but the mechanic is a few miles from my house. I could go back roads or highway.

 

No. The vibration will probably rattle it loose after enough time and thats a disaster. You should have used the air tools like mentioned above. Go to Kragen or something and buy a set of tapping tools and beat the other side of the bolt with a hammer damn it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CompanyFlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> buy a set of tapping tools and beat the other side of the bolt with a hammer damn it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not gonna happen. Trust me. It's on there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beastman@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I snapped the head off the bolt already. Which brings me to my next question:

That bolt is still in there rock solid. Is it "safe" to drive on?

I pulled it out of the garage and into my parking spot, but the mechanic is a few miles from my house. I could go back roads or highway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd say not any more than a few miles. Drive carefully. I've had to do the same thing.

Just buy new LCAs. Then pray that the other two bolts come out of the chassis and the trailing arm (on both sides). They wont. You'll need a cut off tool and a lot of swearing.

This is a common issue. Try my method anyway.

Take a big *** breaker bar and try removing the welded on nut on the other side of the shock. The spot welds will snap off easily. Hopefully, the nut will turn and the bolt won't snap.

If you can get the 19mm nut off the other side of the shock, you can still try my ball joint press method.

You just have to use violence here. If my method doesn't work, try to get the LCA off. Use a cut off wheel if the other bolts give you any **** (get stuck and break).

This is probably the way your mechanic will deal with it anyway. The bolts freeze up inside the bushing sleeve.

Mapp or propane Torch. Cut off wheel and grinder. These are essential honda garage tools.

 

So what I'm gathering from this, is that I am in over my head. I wish that <U>Project Car</U> magazine told me this was going to happen. They put 1 hour for install time on new coilovers Front/Rear. They flat out lied. I have one side still perfectly intact. I already bought a new set of bushings, but they wont be here till later in the week.

 

This was just covered. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2333580

I recommend the Energy Suspension urethane bushing because it does not need to be pressed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beastman@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That bolt is still in there rock solid. Is it "safe" to drive on?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will go ahead and say no. Depending on how your roads are like it would be a safety risk for you and whoever might be riding with you. One good bump and that may tell you what I mean.

You can drive REALLY carefully to your mechanic if you want to. But me, I'd rather not risk any damage and would gladly pay the towing cost to get it to him. But again...that's just me. Good luck!

 

This by far is the most pain in the *** bolt I have come across on my car. I snapped the head off using a breaker bar so I had to cut it out using a cut off wheel. And not just the bolt that goes to the shock but also the one that connects the LCA to the hub. Jesus Christ it was a real nightmare. Good luck to you!

And mind the ABS sensor wire...