guys why the hell do keep breaking axels...
Do you have alot of wheel hop ? If you do I would recommend the Z10 kit or some other Traction kit.
make sure all the front end parts are in good shape
my buddy got some axles for his accord that have a lifetime replacement warranty, he breaks them all the time but gets them replaced for free....can't remember where he got them....search around i guess
my buddy got some axles for his accord that have a lifetime replacement warranty, he breaks them all the time but gets them replaced for free....can't remember where he got them....search around i guess
yup i have a lot of wheel hop...kinda sux...do u know if they make any high performance once that are more durable then the oem ones..?
make sure all the front end parts are in good shape
my buddy got some axles for his accord that have a lifetime replacement warranty, he breaks them all the time but gets them replaced for free....can't remember where he got them....search around i guess
my buddy got some axles for his accord that have a lifetime replacement warranty, he breaks them all the time but gets them replaced for free....can't remember where he got them....search around i guess
no no no
Everyone seems to be missing the problem here. Yes the mentioned parts are great stuff;bushings, Z10 bars, but the problem is somwhere else. UNless we are tlaking about a HIGh boost engine or something stupid powerful which i think would have been mentioned. There is a problem here that has to do with the driveline. My guess, and purely a guess would be to narrow down a few things.
Which side is breaking?...if not both.
Also the suspension geometry could be off causing a driveline angle problem. Yes the CV joint by nature does have a greater operating angle then a U-joint but if opperated at a continuous wrong angle could accelerated wear not be a result???? Also consider the steering knuckle bearings. These could be slightly out of position especially if you pounded out the originals.
One other idea is the suspension mounts could be a number of things:loose, out of position, damaged, or misaligned.
Remember, the driveline is engeneered to function at certain angles. There are tolarences that it will work with in. Even though we drive over bumps and turn lock to lock this is a temporary functioning of the joint.
Consider these things and please repost with some more data to better evaluate the prob.
Everyone seems to be missing the problem here. Yes the mentioned parts are great stuff;bushings, Z10 bars, but the problem is somwhere else. UNless we are tlaking about a HIGh boost engine or something stupid powerful which i think would have been mentioned. There is a problem here that has to do with the driveline. My guess, and purely a guess would be to narrow down a few things. Which side is breaking?...if not both.
Also the suspension geometry could be off causing a driveline angle problem. Yes the CV joint by nature does have a greater operating angle then a U-joint but if opperated at a continuous wrong angle could accelerated wear not be a result???? Also consider the steering knuckle bearings. These could be slightly out of position especially if you pounded out the originals.
One other idea is the suspension mounts could be a number of things:loose, out of position, damaged, or misaligned.
Remember, the driveline is engeneered to function at certain angles. There are tolarences that it will work with in. Even though we drive over bumps and turn lock to lock this is a temporary functioning of the joint.
Consider these things and please repost with some more data to better evaluate the prob.
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here maybe this will help i have 95 b18 with 404's, portflow polished head, i/h/c/e, and im spraying a 75 shot on top of that..i have h/r springs with koni yellow shocks.. i didn't really have any of these problems till i replaced my clutch ...the clutch i have no is act 6-puck....the breaks occur on the drivers side in between the half shaft and the intermediate shaft ...if you guys have any ideas i would appreciate it..
ok thats what i was looking for. The 6 puck is alittle harsh, but understandable with the added juice of nitrous. And i know just hte point you are talking about with the bearing in the middle. Perhaps could you h ave this at some extreme angine or slightly too great of an angle? Also, with that clutch, it grabs up hard and quick and forces something to give. What you would rather have give would be the tires and just spin. I dare say this is a problem that is clutch related. But then again, i have heard of alot of this and the axles working out just fine. I think the clutch is causing it but there is something else to it as well.
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