I've tried a bunch of different things, I am not sure what the problem is. I have a 98 dc2 chassis and a b20b I just put in. I have my ect jumped with 2 wires at the moment while i am trying to figure out why the temperature is not working in my cluster.

As per the manual, I checked the fuse (it was good), Unconnected the single wire plug, then took a jumper wire and hooked it up and connected it to body ground. i turned the key to on (II) position, and very quickly the needle jumps to H. So that means the wiring is good right?

I have replaced the cooling sending unit sensor several times, with several different ones I got from the junkyard. None of them seem to work. I do put gasket maker on a little bit of the thread and torque to 7 ft/bs. What seems to be the problem?

 

Also, after the engine running a while, I tried to test resistance. I set my meter to 2000, and put one lead on the tip and another on the engine. I got around 305. i have a cheap hf multimeter, and i explain it this way because i am not sure if i am getting good readings.

 

Did you check the ECT sensor?

 

can you explain what the issue is, is the gauge not working is the car not getting hot? this needs to be said.

 

the ect is not throwing a cel, so i did not check but I will check it now.

The problem is my temperature gauge is not working in cluster. I also currently have my ect SWITCH has a small wire in the connectors so the fan stays on all the time while i sort this out. I was getting really scared. After spending money on this motor, the temperature gauge would not move at all, and the fans would not come on. Also, the hoses had gotten really hot.

So now the wires are jumping the fans, and I am trying to sort out the cooling sending unit and why it is not working.

I tried rummaging through threads to trouble shoot this; I know it has been covered a million times, but I suppose i need a little more help.

 

How do I check the ECT sensor if it is not throwing a cel. I Checked the ect switch, it does have continuity in the negative wire with the power off, and does have more than 5V in the positive wire with the car on (II). also, for the ect switch, the fuse is good and we can confirm the relay is good because when jumping it, the fans are on.

 

Neither the ECT or sending unit will NOT trigger a CEL, try a different cluster first 2nd see if the wire to the sending unit is in good shape its subject to oil leaking and grime often.

 

the ect switch is what you are referring to. I checked the wires by testing voltage with the key turned on (II) for the positive. It had about 11 volts. I checked the continuity for the negative wire with the car off and it was also close to 0. So i can assume it is good.

I did the test to check wiring for the cooling sending unit by taking a wire lead, putting it on body ground, and in the plug. When turning the key to on (II), the temp gauge quickly moves to H (you have to shut it off quickly otherwise the manual says you will risk ruining the cluster)

For s**** and giggles, I also put in a new cluster I had laying around. It did not solve my temp gauge problem.

I will replace the thermostat with one that I had and just checked by placing it in boiling water. It had opened at about 180 degrees, and also change the ect SWITCH with several that I had gotten at the junkyard. Does the ect switch have anything to do with why the cooling sending unit is not functioning?

 

I am continuing to figure out this issue. After letting the car run for a long time not moving, the lowest the cooling sending unit sensor would get is around 135 ohms when touching the sensor and the engine (ground). The readings are supposed to be much lower. This is happening with every cooling sending unit sensor I am using more or less. The motor would also intermittently die, and would have a hard time idling at operating temp. I do not even know if it is at operating temp because of this sensor! Please help.

 

I chucked up the $20 and bought a new sending unit from autozone. Works fine now. Just find it hard to believe that all the sensors i had gotten from the junkyard were no good. Oh well. Thanks for the help HT

 

Well it is the JUNK YARD you never know the parts condition or how long its been exposed to the sun and elements. Good thing its fixed now.